Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

The readers always write, and sometimes they deserve an answer in print — for the answer addresses a larger point of interest to all who seek to unravel the mystery of wine.

Josh Cohn responded to a recent column that attempted to explain what appear to be, to the naked eye, inconsistent results from the nation's wine competitions. Say, for example, the same wine that won a gold medal in San Francisco didn't win a medal in Los Angeles, but won gold again in San Diego.

Said Josh:

"Thanks for the article on wine inconsistency. An idea for a follow-up: Why should anyone buy wine if it is so inconsistent? Or, should we be returning a lot of wine for refunds?

"On a separate but related note, I have definitely found some wines to be much more consistent performers than others. I don't have much of an explanation, let alone a good handle on which wines seem to perform more consistently."

To Josh I would say the only good reason to return a wine for a refund would be if he found the wine to be defective. That's generally not the case when a wine medals at one competition but not at another. And that's generally not the case when a person finds one bottle of the same wine to be better, or perhaps not as memorable, when tasted weeks apart.

It is the nature of the beast that wines change over time. Each individual bottle is an environment unto itself, and one bottle may evolve at a different pace than another bottle of the same wine. How much fruit character or depth and complexity or finesse a wine shows over multiple tastings can fluctuate, and that may in turn have a negative or positive impact on the perception of elegance and balance. When a wine's fruit is subdued, for whatever reason, a wine can seem to have an overabundance of tannin or acid, or both in the case of red wines.

As a wine matures, its personality becomes less volatile. Red wines lose color and the tannins subside. White wines darken and often flesh out. Primary fruit aromas will give way to secondary aromas and flavors. Once at their peak, truly great wines tend to hold on for some time before quality and pleasure begin to diminish.

I have had Bordeaux from the 1950s in the 1970s and found them to be outstanding. I have tasted those same Bordeaux from the 1950s in recent years and found them to be stunning. Yet I would venture to say all of those wonderful old Bordeaux were likely undrinkable at three, four or five years of age.

Returning them for a refund would not have been very smart. Good wines only require one thing, besides a corkscrew and a decent glass.

Patience, dear Josh, patience!

BEST BUYS

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Cruz 2006 'Andina' Malbec, Argentina ($19) — An absolutely stunning Argentine malbec for the money, Cruz Andina impresses visually first, with an inky purple hue as it splashes into the glass. The palate is voluptuous, showing layers of blueberry and blackberry fruit, licorice and spice with firm structure. This lip-smacking red seals the deal with a long, sensuous finish. Rating: 92.

Gascon 2008 Malbec, Argentina ($14) — Another good example of why financially strapped Americans are now infatuated with Argentine malbec. The Gascon is a mass-produced malbec that nevertheless delivers the essentials of quality: good intensity of fruit, balance, complexity and great aftertaste. Never mind that it's not a blockbuster; it tastes really good with spicy berry fruit aromas, and it comes at an affordable price. Two yums up! Rating: 88.

Elsa Bianchi 2008 Syrah, Argentina ($9) — Another solid value red from Bianchi, the '08 'Elsa' Syrah offers fresh, ripe berry aromas, hints of spice, good backbone and a smooth finish. It is very nice for the price. Rating: 85.

TASTING NOTES

Far Niente 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($125) — Bigger and more forward than is typical of Far Niente, the '06 is a reflection of the long, cool growing season with its long "hang time" and evolved flavors. Cassis and spice on the nose are the hook, followed by layers of blueberry and blackberry notes that are beautifully complemented by hints of mocha and black licorice. Tannins are firm but smooth, and the finish is a lingering time bomb of flavor. Enjoyable now, but it is also an excellent candidate for the cellar. Rating: 96.

Robert Mondavi 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa Valley ($135) — The Mondavi reserve cabernet has been one of the Napa Valley's most important red wines since the late Robert Mondavi first produced it in the late 1960s. Nothing's changed. This is a blockbuster, loaded with dense aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry and black cherry, briary tannins and remarkable length. It's a big wine and likely won't show its best for another five to 10 years. Powerful, but well balanced, a wine for the ages. If you buy it, be patient! Rating: 96.

Vina Robles 2007 'Jardine' Petite Sirah, Paso Robles ($26) — One sip and I promise you will be ready to throw a leg of lamb on the barbie! This is a big, ripe, petite sirah fruit bomb that cries out for red meat or savory cheese. Intense aromas of blackberry and spice on the nose are mirrored on the palate. The tannins are sweet and smooth, and the finish lingers. It's yummy stuff, though not everyone's cup of tea at 15.4 stated percent of alcohol. Rating: 92.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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