Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

It is no secret the declining dollar has complicated the business of importing wine from Europe, where the euro remains strong. The current exchange rate makes it increasingly difficult to source value wines from France, Italy and Spain, the big three wine-producing countries.

As consumers continue to retreat from big-ticket wines, value is what sells. So, I wasn't surprised when an importer of note called recently to tout the virtues of Argentine and Chilean wine.

We call this preaching to the choir. These two South American countries have become the world leaders in value wine, surpassing even Australia and Spain in the delivery of exceptional quality at a low price.

There are two good reasons why this is so. The first is simply the economics of buying land, growing grapes and making wine in South America. Everything from land to labor is cheaper. The second is a fluke of nature — Argentine malbec.

Malbec is a French grape, most famously grown in Bordeaux and known around the world as one of the five major Bordeaux grape varieties. It is grown elsewhere in France, notably Cahors, where it makes a rustic red wine that lacks broad commercial appeal.

In wine-producing outposts such as California and Australia, it is a bit player in a host of Bordeaux-style blends.

Yet malbec from the high-altitude vineyards of Argentina is an emerging rock star in the world of wine. Internationally renowned winemakers such as France's Michel Rolland, Italy's Roberto Cipresso and California's Paul Hobbs have been drawn to Argentina by the spectacular quality of the malbec.

And while it's true that those three aren't exactly making what would be considered value wine — Cipresso's Acheval Ferrer fetches close to $100 a bottle — it does demonstrate the success of the malbec grape in the terroir of Argentina. Success that extends to the stocks of value wines being produced for sale at $10 to $20 retail.

From Argentina, as nowhere else, malbec delivers lushness on the palate, bold fruit aromas and a level of complexity that is absent in most malbec made elsewhere.

The emergence of Argentine malbec is the result of an evolution in quality that began in the 1980s, when Argentina sought to open markets for its wine outside of Argentina. Vintners quickly came to realize that demand for Argentine wine would grow only if the industry modernized.

Prior to the 1980s, quantity rather than quality was the mode of operation in the vineyards of Argentina. The malbec of that now bygone era lacked color and body; it was often bottled despite obvious defects.

The Catena winery of Mendoza, Argentina, was among the first to change course when it hired the well-respected Hobbs as a winemaking consultant nearly two decades ago. A few good vintages prompted a surge in foreign investment, and soon Argentina had the attention of the wine world.

Today, Argentina spits out 90-points-plus malbec at an astonishing rate. That coupled with increased demand for outstanding red wine at $20 or less has consumers buzzing about malbec.

The following is a list of Argentine wineries whose well-priced malbecs have scored good numbers in recent reviews by well-known critics, including this one:

Alamos

Andeluna

Bodegas Salentein

Catena

Cruz

Colome

Dona Paula

Famiglia Bianchi

Gascon

Luigi Bosca

Melipal

Norton

Terrazas de los Andes

Trapiche

Trivento

BEST BUY

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale.

Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Kali Hart 2008 Chardonnay, Monterey County ($19) -- Talbott's second label is a force in its own right, for Kali Hart delivers exceptional value from one of the top vintners in the United States. The '08 Chardonnay exhibits admirable restraint considering the grapes are sourced from two of Central California's top chardonnay vineyards, Sleepy Hollow and Diamond T. This vintage is firm and tight, showing minerality right up front, without diminishing the rich fruit character of the grapes from these two storied vineyards. Lemon custard and caramel aromas about, the palate is fresh with juicy acidity and the long finish is pure Sleepy Hollow. Oh, and did I mention this is the second label? Rating: 90.

 

TASTING NOTES

Etude 2007 Estate Pinot Noir, Carneros ($42) -- There is magic in this vintage of Etude's estate pinot. That rare combination of richness and power coupled with fresh, juicy acidity, fine grained tannins and intriguing layers of complexity mark the '07 a standout, even among Etude's long pedigree of fine pinots. Aromas of fresh strawberry and raspberry dominate the nose. On the palate the wine is full and mouth-watering, with firm acidity and a note of minerality. Outstanding in every way, and a recent Platinum award-winner at the 2009 Sommelier Challenge International Wine Competition. Rating: 94

Paraduxx 2006, Napa Valley ($48) -- This has always been a most interesting Napa Valley red blend -- primarily zinfandel and cabernet sauvignon, with small amounts of merlot and cabernet franc -- and one that the Duckhorn folks literally built a winery around. The '07 is luscious and ripe, yet well balanced, exhibiting aromas of blackberry, damson plum, raspberry, mocha and spice. I love this wine with roasted pork loin or grilled lamb chops. Rating: 92.

Krug 2006 Merlot, Napa Valley ($24) -- Krug is among that handful of Napa Valley producers that seem to do better with merlot than cabernet. Krug's standard merlot (as opposed to its reserve) has a juicy, fleshy quality many will find appealing, but the wine isn't without a structured foundation, offering plenty of grip and refreshing bite on the finish. Rating: 89.

Artesa 2007 Pinot Noir, Carneros ($24) -- In this price range, the Artesa pinot is a standout, delivering medium body, bright red-fruit and plum aromas, with hints of floral and spice on the nose and the back of the palate. It finishes with a slightly leafy character that is an attractive note. Rating: 88.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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