Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

Through the holidays and up until Valentine's Day, I had numerous occasions to reach into the wine cellar for something special. When I did, I usually fetched a decanter as well, as much for the aesthetics as anything else.
   
There is no question that decanting a bottle of wine at the dining table contributes to the ambiance of a special occasion. The wonder is that we don't do it more often; we could turn an ordinary Monday night with leftovers into a memorable evening simply by treating an everyday wine as though it were special.
   
Better still is the fact that decanting isn't only for show. Most wines, even white wines, benefit from aeration. Have you ever noticed, for example, that the second half of a bottle of wine usually tastes better than the first half?
   
That's because the exposure to air has softened the tannins, and the wine's more delicate aromas have had time to flourish. This is true whether you've opened a $75 Barolo or a $12 Malbec. Decanting enhances the process of aeration, thus delivering more immediate results and greater pleasure from the entirety of a bottle of wine.
   
The size and shape of the decanter hardly matters if the alternative is no aeration at all. But I have a few preferences in my growing collection of wine vessels, choosing the size and shape that fits the wine in intend to decant.
   
For example, I own a number of decanters that are flared at the bottom; what the Italians call an onion shape. This type of decanter is perfect for young wines or tannic wines, such as Bordeaux or Barolo. The flare provides a wider surface area rather than more vertical decanters, giving those gripping tannins more air to make them less astringent.
   
If I am serving an older wine -- and what you might consider old may vary with the type of wine -- I prefer a more vertical decanter with less surface area. Older wines lose their primary fruit aromas over time, and what's left of the fruit after a wine has reached 15, 20 or 25 years of age is often fragile.
   
A vertical decanter will better preserve the fruit than a flared decanter with a large surface area. If you cared to run an experiment -- possibly a very expensive and painful experiment -- you could use a flared decanter to aerate a 25-year-old Bordeaux or Napa Valley Cabernet. In all likelihood the wine, if from a top producer, would taste fresh and vibrant immediately after decanting.
   
But the wine would eventually fall apart, with the fruit dying in the decanter as the evening passed -- exactly the opposite of what happens with a young wine exposed to air over time.
   
I also have a special decanter for white wines, though generally speaking almost any decanter serves the purposes of getting air to the wine and bringing up flavors and aromas more quickly than they might otherwise evolve. My special white wine decanter has a deep punt that allows for a glass of ice, which will keep whites cool for up to an hour or so.
   
I only use this decanter in warm weather when I'm afraid my whites will warm too quickly and go dull.
   
You can spend a small fortune on a decanter, particularly if you fancy crystal from the likes of Waterford or Baccarat. Or you can waltz into any Target and buy something cheap made from regular glass. Cheap works every bit as well as expensive.
   
Like the wine itself, buying a decanter comes down to a matter of taste and budget.

BEST BUYS
   
Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.
   
Castello Monaci 2007 'Piluna' Primitivo, Salento, Italy ($13) -- A dazzling wine for the price, Castello Monaci's Piluna Primitivo offers a complex nose of anise, dried herbs, tealeaf and blackberry, with ripe tannins and juicy acidity. The hint of tobacco is just enough to beguile without overwhelming the gentle aromas of fruit and bramble. Well-balanced, delicious and inexpensive make for a winning combo. Rating: 91.
   
Kendall-Jackson 2007 'Vintner's Reserve' Zinfandel, Mendocino County ($15) -- K-J's Vintner's Reserve Zin manages to accomplish something most Zin producers of today studiously avoid: balance. If you enjoy the briary berry notes of the Zins of yore, but have tired of the alcoholic kick of the current generation of monster Zins, kick back and enjoy a wonderful throwback to the good old days when Zinfandel teased the senses rather than obliterated them. Pretty raspberry and blackberry notes on this beauty, with hints of spice and a long, seductive finish. It's 14.5 percent alcohol, but that's tame by modern Zinfandel standards. Rating: 90.
   
Paul Jaboulet Aine 2007 'Parallele 45' Cotes du Rhone, France ($13) -- With an increasing emphasis on value, Jaboulet's Parallele 45 is an ever more important wine for those who want as much quality as they can get for as few bucks as possible. This lovely value wine is typical of the southern Rhone -- a blend of Grenache and Syrah with Grenache playing the lead role. That means juicy red-fruited aromas and flavors with some of the spice and tannin of the Syrah. Easy drinking as an aperitif, but with enough body and complexity to tackle dishes, such as coq au vin or savory roasts. Rating: 88.

TASTING NOTES
   
Fleming Jenkins 2007 Black Ridge Vineyard Syrah, Santa Cruz Mountains ($40) -- This is the first Fleming Jenkins wine I've really fallen in love with, and that is largely because stylistically this Syrah is what I'm looking for when I reach into the wine cellar for a good food wine. It has plenty of lovely blackberry and wild cherry fruit, but stops shy of being jammy on the palate; and it shows a good bit of minerality and spicy nuance from the use of 100-percent French oak for aging. Yummy stuff that's a superb complement to savory cuisine, particularly grilled meats. Rating: 92.
   
Fleming Jenkins 2007 Madden Ranch Syrah, Livermore Valley ($40) -- I would like firmer structure, but overall this effort from former football coach and television announcer John Madden's vineyard is a promising step in the right direction. Aromas and flavors of blackberry and blueberry dominate this juicy example of California Syrah from a very underrated grape region. The wine is rich and full on the palate, with good persistence of flavor through its long finish. Rating: 90.
  
Dry Creek Vineyard 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Dry Creek Valley ($25) -- Dry Creek Vineyard can always be counted upon to deliver good, solid quality in this price range, and the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon is no exception. This is a medium-bodied Cab that exhibits a cedary, lead-pencil nose, subtle red fruits and moderate tannins that surely won't diminish your pleasure if you decide to pop the cork upon arrival. There is a savory backnote that is quite attractive with nuances of mocha and spice. Rating: 88.
   
Val di Suga 2006 Rosso di Montalcino, Italy ($27) -- This high-class rosso exhibits pure, ripe red-fruit flavors, with excellent balance between fruit, acid and tannin. A spicy backnote sexes up the finish, which is long and seductive. An exceptional food wine that is drinkable now and over the next five years. Rating: 90.
   
Coto de Imaz 2004 Rioja Reserva, Spain ($20) -- This rather old-fashioned Rioja shows its stuff from first whiff, with earthy aromas of forest floor and barnyard intermingled with sweet oak vanillin. The primary fruit aromas have given much ground to the secondary aromas, in keeping with the historic notion of Rioja Reserva. The tannins are smooth and silky. On balance, this is a solid, old-school Rioja for those who prefer that sort of wine. Rating: 85.
   
To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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