Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

It's summertime and the living is easy. That means backyards, barbecues and burgers — and for a bit of adult indulgence, burger wines. This is neither the time nor the place for Chateau Lafite, Far Niente or Opus One. Hey, a wine and burger aficionado must have a few simple guidelines!

Rule 1: A burger wine should not cost more than $20. This rule may be broken for special occasions, but generally speaking burger wines ought to deliver exceptional quality at a modest price.

Rule 2: A burger wine should not be too heavy in oak, tannin or alcohol. The star of the show is the burger. Big, bold, overripe wines and heavily tannic wines have a tendency to get in the way, and their "qualities" are often magnified when outside temps begin to climb. A hot, alcoholic red wine will seem hotter and heavier as the mercury rises.

Rule 3: Good balance is a given for any serious food wine, but vibrant fruit is perhaps the most important element of a burger wine. Light wines with wimpy fruit aromas simply won't stand up to the smoky flavors of a grilled burger. I also look for savory notes and spice.

This week's tasting notes are culled from tastings through the first half of 2010. These are wines that deliver both quality and value, while possessing the elements I seek in matching a red wine with a juicy, sizzling burger from the grill.

TASTING NOTES

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Marchesi di Gresy 2007 'Monte Aribaldo' Dolcetto d'Alba, Italy ($20) — Perhaps the most underrated red-wine grape in Italy, Dolcetto when it's good is the consummate food wine. This one is very good. The Monte Aribaldo exhibits beautiful ripe berry fruit with a solid core of acidity that keeps the wine fresh and scintillating. Intensely perfumed with grapey aromas and spice, it's a pleasure to simply swirl and smell prior to taking the first sip. Many would recommend serving Dolcetto slightly chilled, as you would a Beaujolais, but this is a more serious wine that offers complexity and character and hardly needs any sort of enhancement. Rating: 93.

Clos de los Siete 2008, Mendoza, Argentina ($19) — I don't know if Michel Rolland is the finest winemaker in the world, but he's certainly in the discussion. The brilliant one from Bordeaux has an intense love affair going with Argentina, and it's evident from wines like this that Rolland's heart is in the right place. This classy red blend of Malbec, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot exhibits concentrated red and black fruits, a hint of cedar, firm tannins and a spicy finish that lets you know there's a bit of really good oak without overstating the case. Rating: 91.

Domaine de Nizas 2006 Carignan 'Vieilles Vignes,' Vin de Pays de Caux, France ($16) — Impressed as I was by this estate's Le Mas Rouge, the Carignan is even better. This well-balanced wine exhibits aromas of red fruit and dried herbs, and possesses scintillating minerality. It is produced from 50-year-old Carignan vines, the age no doubt contributing to low yields and enhanced flavor intensity. In the realm of red wines for less than $20, this one looms large. Rating: 91.

Castello Monaci 2007 'Piluna' Primitivo, Salento, Italy ($13) — A dazzling wine for the price, Monaci's Piluna Primitivo offers a complex nose of anise, dried herbs, tea leaf and blackberry, with ripe tannins and juicy acidity. The hint of tobacco is just enough to beguile without overwhelming the gentle aromas of fruit and bramble. Well-balanced, delicious and inexpensive make for a winning combo. Rating: 91.

Liberty School 2007 Cuvee, Central Coast ($12) — Go ahead, knock my socks off for $12.

That's exactly what Liberty School Cuvee does. It's a red Rhone-style blend that over-delivers big time. It shows ripe red fruits and spice, with a lovely floral and blueberry nose and long, sweet tannins on the finish. It's a gorgeous, plush wine that's definitely been kissed by the California sun! Perfect for summer barbecues or simple everyday grilled meats and sausages. Rating: 90.

Quattro Leoni 2007 Barbera d'Asti 'Vino Rosso,' Italy ($17) — For far too long, the benchmark wines of northern Italy's Piedmont region have scared away potential customers due to price. While not daunting to collectors and well-heeled aficionados, Barolo and Barbaresco are certainly priced far beyond the "everyday" classification. Yet there is another fabulous red wine from the region that is now getting notice and carving a niche among the value seekers, and that is Barbera. There were good reasons — poor winemaking chief among them — that Barbera had been ignored in the past. Barbera can sometimes exhibit unpleasant acidity, but better practices in the vineyard and winery have resulted in more attractive wines that are both long-lived and affordable. The Quattro Leoni delivers lovely aromas of dark cherry and raspberry, with hints of leather, spice and coffer. The nose offers a seductive floral quality, and on the palate, the wine has an underlying minerality and earthiness that is a soul mate to grilled meats and artisan cheeses. Rating: 90.

Kendall-Jackson 2007 'Vintner's Reserve' Zinfandel, Mendocino County ($15) — K-J's Vintner's Reserve Zin manages to accomplish something most Zin producers of today studiously avoid: balance. If you enjoy the briary berry notes of the Zins of yore but have tired of the alcoholic kick of the current generation of monster Zins, kick back and enjoy a wonderful throwback to the good old days when Zinfandel teased the senses rather than obliterated them. This beauty exhibits pretty raspberry and blackberry notes, with hints of spice and a long, seductive finish. Rating: 90.

Domaine de Nizas 2007 'Le Mas Rouge', Vin de Pays d'Oc, France ($14) — This property in the south of France, near the village of Nizas in the Languedoc region, is owned by American John Goelet of Napa's Clos Du Val winery. Le Mas Rouge is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot — grapes that thrive in the area — exhibiting lush black fruit aromas, hints of spices and herbs, and a touch of minerality. It's well balanced, an exceptional food wine. Rating: 89.

Paul Jaboulet Aine 2007 'Parallele 45,' Cotes du Rhone, France ($13) — With an increasing emphasis on value, Jaboulet's Parallele 45 is an ever more important wine for those who want as much quality as they can get for as few bucks as possible. This lovely valued wine is typical of the southern Rhone — a blend of Grenache and Syrah, with Grenache playing the lead role. That means juicy red-fruited aromas and flavors with some of the spice and tannin of the Syrah. Easy drinking as an aperitif, but with enough body and complexity to tackle dishes, such as coq au vin or savory roasts. Rating: 88.

Candor Lot 2 Merlot, Central Coast ($18) — This ripe, full-bodied Merlot is brought to you by the good folks at Hope Family wines in Paso Robles. They were farmers growing grapes before they started making their own wines, so they're plugged into some of the better plots of vineyard in the Central Coast. The Lot 2 Merlot is a blend of two vintages, 2007 and 2008, and delivers a rich Central Coast red wine experience at a modest price. The wine is loaded with ripe plum, blackberry and currant fruit, sweet, nicely integrated tannins, and hints of spice. For the money, it's a great way to go if you're looking for a gutsy red for the summer barbecue. Rating: 88.

Vina Robles 2008 Huerhuero 'Red,' Paso Robles ($16) — They're calling this a GSM-P, short for Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Petite Sirah. Whatever you call it, call it tasty. Vina Robles 'Red' is a supple, juicy red wine that offers luscious red and black fruit aromas, sweet tannins and a long, lip-smacking finish. There is a slightly dominant note of oak on the nose, but that should dissipate over time. Mark it down as an outstanding summer barbecue red at a reasonable price. Rating: 88.

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