Restaurant wine lists come in all shapes and sizes, not to mention levels of indulgence. My favorite neighborhood restaurants all have a short list of thoughtful selections that are sensibly priced. Good food and good wine; these are the things of everyday life.

Then there are those rare occasions that call for something special, perhaps even extraordinary. Such as those cool, wet spring evenings in Verona, Italy, when I would wander into Bottega del Vino after a grueling day of tasting at Vinitaly, Italy's largest wine exhibition, for a bit of sustenance and always an exceptional bottle of wine.

The beauty of the wine list at the Bottega was its depth. I could choose Barolo from the 1980s or Chianti from the 1950s, and everything in between. It became a ritual over the years that at least once during Vinitaly week I would take a table at Bottega and order a bottle of 1957 Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro. The allure for me was that I knew I would never find this particular wine anywhere else.

Although I sampled many great wines at Bottega del Vino through the years, it was the Riserva Ducale that kept me coming back.

On a recent Friday evening, while dining at Addison at The Grand Del Mar just outside of San Diego, I experienced a bit of deja vu. Although Jesse Rodriguez, a rising star in the ranks of our nation's top sommeliers, oversees the wines at Addison, this would be my first visit since the restaurant opened some years ago.

When I opened the wine list, I didn't really know what to expect. I knew it would be good, but I had no idea how good until I began to thumb through the pages of this very thick book of wines. I quickly realized I was in the presence of greatness, possibly on a par with the brilliance of the wine collection at Bottega del Vino.

I found wines that I knew I would never find again unless I knew someone who had a very deep, very old cellar. I remember being impressed when I asked for the list of wines by the glass and found Krug Champagne on it. I knew this would be a good night. Scanning the pages of the list of wines by the bottle, noting the depth of the selection, especially the multiple older vintages of some of the world's most coveted wines, I realized I was on the cusp of a memorable wine experience that would rival anything before it.

So I took a deep breath, weighed the cost versus the quality of the experience and took the plunge.

There were four of us this night. For starters, after a round of Champagne by the glass, I chose a 2006 Domaine Raveneau "Les Clos" Chablis Grand Cru. The Addison list offered a generous selection of Raveneau from several vintages and vineyards. Les Clos is the most renowned vineyard in the Chablis district, so for me this was an easy decision.

I then ordered two bottles of red wine, a 1970 R. Lopez Heredia "Vina Tondonia" Rioja Reserva and a 1989 Gaja "Sperss" Barolo. The kitchen, under the direction of acclaimed chef William Bradley, was given instructions to pair several courses to match the wines.

I found the 1970 Vina Tondonia appealing because of its age. R. Lopez Heredia is among the oldest wineries in Rioja, a living legend in the historic village of Haro in northern Spain. Its wines, even the whites, are renowned for their longevity. I ordered the 1970 with utter confidence the vintage would be in impeccable condition, which it was. Of course, the list must have had a dozen or so different vintages of Vina Tondonia.

The 1989 Sperss was my second choice of the two vintages of Gaja Sperss on the list. The last bottle of my first choice, the phenomenal 1995 Sperss, had just been sold. I have long believed this particular Barolo to be among the finest red wines in the world. It is the equivalent of a first growth Bordeaux, yet sells for a fraction of the price.

There were numerous other Gaja wines I could have selected, but I confess to a fondness for Sperss, no doubt because of so many wonderful memories of tasting this wine over a couple of decades of travel to Italy. In a nation of brilliant winemakers, Angelo Gaja is clearly at the head of the class until that day when he decides to step back and bask in the empire he has created.

As the wines arrived, one by one, it was hardly a surprise that the 2006 Raveneau Les Clos Chablis Grand Cru turned every head. Still young and fresh, this is one of Burgundy's truly great white wines.

The 1970 Vina Tondonia Rioja Reserva was the first red to be served, and there was stunned silence as it was poured. At 42 years young, the color was exceptional, with no browning at the edges and nary a hint of oxidation. The bouquet was positively gorgeous — floral, with loads of spice, dried fruits and earthy forest floor aromas — and the palate exhibited a fair amount of primary fruit flavor, notably raspberry and black cherry.

The final wine of the evening, the 1989 Gaja Sperss Barolo, would have to do some heavy lifting to eclipse the evening's first two wines. I had little doubt the Sperss would be the wine of the night, yet even I was surprised at what this 23-year-old Barolo still had to offer.

It was positively youthful, as remarkable for its freshness and purity as it was for its complexity and flavor. The color was extraordinary. If anything, we opened it 10 to 15 years too soon.

As this extraordinary wining and dining experience drew to a close and I paid the tab, I remember thinking "no regrets." Instead, I was grateful.

Most restaurants have neither the inclination nor the resources to compile a collection of older, impossible-to-find, in some cases iconic wines. The Addison list represents a substantial financial investment. Many of these wines will most likely sit there for years until they sell, waiting for the party with the right occasion and the desire to experience wines that simply can't be found in the everyday world.

Dipping into the Addison cellar isn't something I could afford to do every day. But I consider myself fortunate that in my corner of the world there is such a place, with wines on the list that would make even the most jaded oenophile weep for joy.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.