Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

The question was perfectly reasonable.

"Aren't we now supposed to drink the wines we like and not pay attention to what the critics say? Isn't all of that swirling and sniffing, and those descriptive terms, just a little too snooty?"

Talk about being directly in the sights as you stare down the barrel of a gun. Well, for starters, I agreed everyone should decide for themselves what they like or don't like when it comes to wine. That's a given.

I still remember organizing a blind tasting years ago at the home of a prominent surgeon. My tasting group was there on invitation, mostly because the host wanted to show off his newly constructed wine cellar. I had randomly chosen Bordeaux from a very good vintage as the tasting theme.

As was our custom, after each taster had gone through the entire lineup of 12 wines, we discussed each wine one by one, ranked it one through 12 and revealed its identity. At some point in the middle of this show-and-tell segment of the tasting, we came upon the wine that our host had ranked last of the 12.

He was adamant in his position, expressing his impressions of the as-yet-unknown Bordeaux in terms that were, to put it mildly, unkind. After I removed the brown paper bag and unveiled the wine, there was an audible gasp from our host. Little more than an hour prior, he had pointed proudly to three wooden cases of Bordeaux in his new cellar that had earned a very high score from a prominent wine critic.

It was the same wine that he now loathed. Our friend had not tasted the wine before he purchased it, relying solely upon the wisdom — and high score — of the world-renowned wine critic. Fortunately, the critic's reputation and the wine's established following allowed our friend to unload his purchase without suffering a huge financial lost.

The takeaway from all of this is not what you might think. Rather than not trusting a reputable wine critic's advice, I would say know your critic. Wines are legitimately produced in varying styles. Most critics have a stylistic bias that is easily detected.

Some might prefer rich, oily Chardonnays and give those more favorable ratings than austere, less fruity wines made from the same grape. Some will reserve their highest praise for ripe, jammy Cabernet Sauvignons and dismiss Cabs that exhibit subtlety and are less expressive or ponderous.

Flawed as this approach might seem, the wine critic has a place in the debate because it's almost impossible for the average person to navigate a wine shop and not be overwhelmed by the sheer volume of choices. Those who recommend wines professionally serve as a useful guide to quality and value.

Still, the end consumer must make the final call. If you follow a person's recommendations and they pan out, that's a critic you should pay attention to in the future. If you follow a critic's recommendations and they consistently disappoint, that's a person or publication you should avoid.

It's really that easy.

Imagine that you read a restaurant review that waxed poetic about a dish made from liver.

Even though you hate liver, you decide to try it. Just because you gag and spit the nasty stuff into your napkin doesn't make it bad liver. You just happen to hate liver.

It's the same with wine. The critic may be right on the quality, but ultimately you get to decide what you like.

BEST BUY

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Souverain 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Alexander Valley ($15) — Souverain's winemaking team takes advantage of the warmer climes of the Alexander Valley to craft a Sauvignon that has more in common with Napa Valley Sauvignons than its Sonoma County rivals. The result is a lovely white that brings to mind Bordeaux blanc, with its notes of white peach and fig, a flavor profile that has become the default Napa Valley model for this grape variety. Slightly oily, with hints of honeysuckle and white flower (due no doubt to the smidge of Viognier in the blend), and a good persistence of flavor. It is well-balanced at 13.6 alcohol. Rating: 90.

TASTING NOTES

Yarden 2004 Syrah, Galilee, Israel ($25) — On a visit to the Yarden winery several years ago, I was of the opinion that Syrah was definitely a promising grape variety for this quality minded Israeli winery. So it comes as no surprise to me that the '04 Syrah struck a beautiful note for me. The Yarden vineyards in Galilee are planted on volcanic soils at elevations ranging from 1,300 feet to more than 3,000 feet. The cool nights have a profound effect on the wines, and in this case, it means notes of white pepper, high-toned blueberry fruit aromas, with a hint of minerality and a pretty floral bouquet. This wine is well-balanced with excellent aging potential, yet perfectly suited for near-term consumption. Rating: 92.

Jackson Estate 2007 'Shelter Belt' Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand ($22) — The Marlborough region was once regarded as a one-note wonder, that wonder being crisp, pungent Sauvignon Blanc. In recent years, Pinot Noir has started to crowd Sauvignon for attention, and now it seems there is good potential for Chardonnay, too. This vintage of Jackson Shelter Belt offers flinty minerality and bracing acidity that is accompanied by bright citrus notes on the lemony side of the flavor spectrum. It is Burgundian in style, and absent the oily characteristics that seem to dominate most New World Chardonnay. Enjoyable now, but expect this wine to flesh out, darken and exhibit complexities of stone fruits, spice and butterscotch as it ages. Rating: 91.

J Vineyards 2007 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($35) — J's basic Pinot could well be the best buy in Pinot at $35 or less. That may seem expensive, but it's well below the going rate for RRV Pinot from a top producer. I was struck by the elegance of this Pinot, given its gorgeous bouquet and length in the mouth. It exhibits aromas of violet, red fruits and spice with flavors of strawberry, blackberry and wild cherry. This complex Pinot delivers exceptional flavor without a heavy footprint, a Burgundian trait that is so often missed by New World Pinots. Rating: 93.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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