Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

A recent visit to one of my favorite wine bars reminded me that the Anything But Chardonnay crowd is alive and well, and it maintains a powerful influence over the buying habits of ordinary folk like me. For the most part I am a customer and nothing more. When I scan the wines-by-the-glass list at a good wine bar, I'm generally interested in tasting the most interesting of the options available.

That's almost never a Chardonnay. Not that there aren't plenty of good Chardonnays to taste, but the fashion seems to be, well, anything but Chardonnay. So, I'm faced with choices such as Gruner Veltliner, Albarino, Falanghina, Torrontes and, suddenly, a plethora of dry Rieslings from Washington, Australia and occasionally Germany.

These are all good wines with distinct personalities and interesting food affinities. Still, I can't help but wonder why Chardonnay — once the ubiquitous "white wine" ordered by the glass ad nauseum while waiting for a table when dining out — is now persona non grata in many restaurants and bistros across the land.

I get it that we went through a period when Chardonnay, particularly California Chardonnay, evolved in a way that was tiresome. Too heavy, too oaky, too buttery was the thing for too long, and the sameness inspired a sense of boredom that continues to grip a segment of the wine-drinking population today. I think most of those folks probably own wine bars, because it's my experience that most wine bars would prefer to sell, so thus offer, anything but Chardonnay.

Something tells me this isn't right. Chardonnay continues to be the most consumed white wine in America. Somebody obviously likes it — just not the buyers who choose the wines for a growing number of wine bars.

My solution is quite simple. Identify a number of exceptional Chardonnay producers and put a few of them on the list. If Chardonnay still has a strong fan base, which would seem to be the case if you only go by the national sales figures, customers will order it. I can help.

Here are ten Chardonnays anyone could love. They possess a modicum of cache and a good recent track record, having performed well earlier this year at either the San Diego or Critics Challenge international wine competitions.

Cakebread 2008 Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($37) — As consistently outstanding as any Chardonnay to be found in the Napa Valley, Cakebread is often overlooked in this category only because its Cabernet Sauvignon is so good.

Flora Springs 2008 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($30) — This winery gets my vote as the Napa Valley's most underrated, and that includes its Barrel Fermented Chard, which has been a star in the Flora Springs lineup for more than 20 years. Even when other California wineries were wandering in the Chardonnay wilderness, Flora Springs managed to get it right. They still do.

Franciscan 2007 Cuvee Sauvage Chardonnay, Carneros ($40) — It has been my experience that the Cuvee Sauvage from Franciscan ages as well or better than just about any other Napa Valley Chard.

Grgich-Hills 2007 Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($42) — I have long considered Grgich among the most iconic of California Chardonnays. Winemaker and founder Mike Grgich is the genius who made the brilliant Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, which won the infamous Paris tasting in the 1970s. And his own wines under the Grgich-Hills banner have been no less good.

Frank Family Vineyards 2008 Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($32.50) — Judges at the San Diego International loved this Chardonnay, awarding it Platinum and nominating it for Best of Show white wine. It didn't win, but make no mistake, this is a serious Chardonnay. It embodies the richness and heft of Chardonnay from the Napa Valley, yet maintains a measure of balance and elegance. Good stuff!

Jordan 2008 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley ($29) — The Jordan Chardonnay has long lived in the shadows of the Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon. That was due, at least to some extent, to vineyard sources that didn't always measure up. Jordan is on a new track with its Chardonnay these days and the quality now rivals that of the Cabernet. In fact, the Jordan Chard was voted Best Chardonnay at this year's Critics Challenge.

Laboure-Roi 2006 Chablis Premier Cru Reserve, France ($48) — If you've ever wondered what everyone's talking about when they mention "minerality" in a wine, try a top-flight Chablis. The limestone soils and cool climate combine to produce Chardonnay that is flinty and mineral driven rather than ripe and fruity. The Laboure-Roi Premier Cru Reserve is an excellent example of a Chablis that hits it just right between the elements of fruit and minerals.

Ortman Family Vineyards 2007 Chardonnay, Edna Valley ($24) — Founding winemaker Chuck Ortman (his son, Matt, is now making the wines) was once known as Mr. Chardonnay because of his earliest Chardonnays at such wineries as Spring Mountain and Far Niente. He later founded Meridian and made the wines there for 20 years before leaving to do a small family winery. Chuck was always fond of Edna Valley Chardonnay, and this vintage of OFV reminds me of many of the Meridian Chardonnays he made from Edna Valley. It's rich on the palate and full bodied, but it's beautifully structured and well balanced.

Sonoma Cutrer 2008 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast ($24) — This Chardonnay is a step up from Sonoma Cutrer's Russian River Ranches bottling that seems to be the ubiquitous restaurant Chardonnay. It has better structure and is slightly more complex, but not much more expensive. The Sonoma Cutrer Chardonnays are uniformly outstanding food wines, and this one is no exception. It displays an attractive lemon oil aroma and is supported with good acidity.

William Fevre 2008 Champs Royaux Chablis, France ($23) — If ever you feel the need for Chardonnay with freshly shucked oysters, Champs Royaux would be the one. It is fresh and crisp, with a flinty mineral character and aromas of tart lime, lemon and green apple, but it ultimately has a creamy texture despite the crispness and pungency. A very complex Chablis for this price point.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

COPYRIGHT 2010 CREATORS.COM.