Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

As I pulled together my tasting notes for this week's column, it occurred to me that value was very much on my mind. My definition of value might appear to be quirky to some because it doesn't necessarily mean cheap.

So, I recently ran across several bottles of 1998 Gaja Sperss marked at $250 per bottle. I discovered the wine merchant was willing to negotiate and got the price down to $150. I took all four bottles that were left and considered it a steal, given the going rate for Gaja wines and the fact that they are among the most desirable of all wine collectibles.

In general, however, I believe wine prices are too high. They soared during the last economic boom, though the bottom has fallen out of late. I don't mind paying a fair price, even if it's a bit high, for a rare wine with a track record for greatness. I will save the Gaja Sperss for special occasions, or open one on a night when I simply feel the need to connect with a profound wine over a good meal.

But even at $150 a bottle, the Sperss is an extravagance. When I see the prices for the great Burgundies of Domaine de la Romanee-Conti or the elite chateaux of Bordeaux, such as Latour, Ausone or Cheval Blanc, I am hit with a sense of loss. I could once afford those wines, before they became the toys of profligate Asian businessmen and speculators from the auction markets.

Now I find myself harking back to the earliest days of my interest in wine, when I scoured the "off" vintages of Bordeaux for the greatest wines from bad years. That's when the prices were best. I also took an interest in the Cru Bourgeois of Bordeaux, where sometimes deals were to be found on exceptional wines that lacked the cachet of wines from the grand chateaux.

My largest purchase ever in terms of volume was a nine-case lot of the 1979 Chateau Gloria, an unclassified Bordeaux property in Saint-Julien. If memory serves, I paid less than $9 a bottle, and it was delicious enough to keep me away from the more expensive Bordeaux in my modest collection.

The problem I have with too many expensive wines today, especially from California, is the lack of history. I might be willing to pay $200 for a bottle of Phelps Insignia, but balk at all of those $100-plus Napa wines from estates I've never heard of.

What is the value of rarity (many of these nouveau wines are made in limited quantity) if there is no record of accomplishment? And more and more I believe it's a dubious argument that uber-expensive California wines are any better than the ocean of wines available in the $20-$40 range. What are you really getting for $125 when you purchase an overpriced wine from a new, unknown California producer?

Probably a big score from Robert Parker or Jim Laube.

Most likely 15 percent or more in alcohol. And the likelihood that the wine will be flabby and fade well before its time. You might get lucky and find a wine that's a true home run. Then again, you might not.

I will continue to taste and review some of the pricey new wines because those in the market for luxury wines deserve to be steered toward the better efforts in that category. But for my own money, I'm looking long and hard at the likes of Ca' del Solo, Smith-Madrone, Flora Springs, Truchard, New York's Dr. Frank and scores of others who seem to be able to make great wines for less than $100 a bottle.

Even if I could afford the higher priced spread, I'm more convinced every day that the wines I love in my price range are every bit as good. For me, that's where the real value is.

BEST VALUE

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value. The scores are merely a measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm for the recommended wine.

M. Chapoutier 2009 Belleruche Rose, Cotes-du-Rhone, France ($13) — You could spend a great deal of money on a Chapoutier wine and hardly be disappointed. You could also spend very little and come away with the same satisfying experience. Chapoutier's Belleruche Rose is a superb summer refresher that's both colorful and delicious. This beauty from the Cotes-du-Rhone exhibits the bright red-fruit aromas of Grenache, which is the primary grape in the blend at 90 percent. The rest is divided between Syrah and Cinsault. It is fresh and refreshing, well balanced, and an easy summer wine because of the relatively low alcohol at 13.5 percent. Serve this wine either as an aperitif or with grilled fish simply seasoned with salt, pepper, herbs and olive oil. Rating: 89.

Peter Lehmann 2007 Clancy's Red, Barossa Valley, Australia ($16) — A fairly typical Aussie blend that combines grapes of the Rhone (Shiraz) with Bordeaux varieties (in this case Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cab Franc) to produce a complex blend that exhibits inviting aromatics, a juicy texture, and succulent red and black fruit nuances. This vintage also shows hints of eucalyptus and spice. Don't fret over the screw cap. It's a classy wine that's a steal at the price. And the alcohol at 14 percent is modest for the Barossa Valley. Rating: 88.

Acrobat 2009 Pinot Gris, Oregon ($12) — In the realm of great summer quaffers at a low price, this second-label Pinot Gris from Oregon's King Estate ranks high on my list. It's zesty and fruity, with good balance, and juicy citrus and tropical notes on the palate. At 12.5 percent alcohol, it is perfect for summer sipping and will pair nicely with salty tapas and light seafood preparations, particularly steamed clams. Rating: 87.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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