Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

The mercury was rising as I rolled north on Interstate 5 through California's central valley on my way to Napa. My car's digital readout had the outside temperature at 111 as I pulled into a familiar oasis, the Harris Ranch, for a late lunch and a glass of wine.

I sat at the bar and watched with anticipation as the bartender drew a glass of Robert Hall's Rhone de Robles from the Cruvinet, a wine bar delivery system that preserves wines after they've been opened.

The Cruvinet also controls the serving temperature, but to my dismay my glass of wine arrived warm. It didn't take Sherlock Holmes to figure out the problem. I ordered another glass of wine, a different wine, from the same Cruvinet. It arrived at the perfect temperature.

The usually reliable Harris Ranch had committed the same blunder that millions of wine enthusiasts and countless other restaurants make whenever cool spring days and nights give way to scorching summertime temps. Before the wine I ordered had been placed in the Cruvinet, it had been stored someplace without refrigeration.

I was unlucky enough to have ordered it before it got a chill on. The result is usually drinkable but hardly enjoyable because warm reds tend to be harsh and taste alcoholic, even if they are well balanced.

Before you blame the clueless Americans for not knowing how to care for good wine, know that the problem is much worse throughout most of the great wine producing regions of Europe. While traveling through rural France, Italy and Spain, you will face the same problem due to the lack of air conditioning in most of the small towns in the countryside.

It's not all that unusual to order a fabulous red wine only to be disappointed to find that the bottle is warm to the touch when the waiter presents it. There is a simple solution unless the bottle has been exposed to the heat for so long that the flavors have cooked.

Request an ice bucket and chill the red wine for at least 15 minutes. Taste it first so you will recognize the improvement after the temperature has been brought down, ideally into the range of 65 to 68 degrees Fahrenheit. The fruit should brighten and the harsh elements of alcohol and tannin should dissipate.

If it is a young wine but showing signs of browning at the edges, reject it immediately for it has probably baked for too long in the heat.

You can do this at home as well, even if you have the luxury of central air. Most folks don't have proper storage for wine inside the house, so storage in the garage becomes the option of last resort. Not the greatest of ideas (remember, cars with hot engines are parked there) but it happens.

If storage is an issue for you and you serve your reds too warm, invest in a cheap ice bucket. When you're in the mood for a robust red while grilling on the deck, throw that bottle of cabernet on ice.

Far from looking like the neighborhood wine rube, you'll really be a savvy wine drinker in the know. And how cool is that?

 

BEST BUYS

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale.

Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Beckmen 2008 Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Santa Ynez Valley ($16 — This is the perfect cocktail Sauvignon for wine bars and restaurants that focus on interesting wines by the glass. Beautifully balanced and delicate, it has a bit of everything that wine enthusiasts appreciate about modern sauvignon blanc. With a floral nose and hints of dried herbs, the entry is particularly seductive. On the palate you will find aromas of ripe melon and citrus, with a lightly honeyed finish. Delicious on its own, and with tapas or goat cheese. Rating: 87.

Vino dei Fratelli 2007 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Italy ($9) — Montepulciano is always among the easiest drinking reds produced in Italy, making it quite literally a fabulous pizza wine. Vino dei Fratelli's '07 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is a plump red that offers juicy dark fruits and soft tannins, with a pleasingly long finish. Rating: 85.

 

TASTING NOTES

Long Meadow Ranch 2005 "E.J. Church" Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa Valley ($85) — Seriously good Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon more often than not comes with a hefty price tag, and Long Meadow Ranch's debut release of its E.J. Church Reserve is certainly no exception. Sometimes, the cabernets live up to their price, sometimes not. This one nails it! This beautifully structured, well-balanced Napa Cab exhibits layered complexity, with intense aromas of black cherry and red currant, earthy notes of black tea and cedar, and firm tannins that bode well for a long and seamless evolution. All in all, an impressive example of the prowess of the Napa Valley with its core grape variety, cabernet sauvignon. Rating: 95.

Grgich Hills 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($60) — You would expect an outstanding Napa Valley winery to make an outstanding cabernet sauvignon in an outstanding vintage, and Grgich Hills doesn't disappoint. The '05 Grgich Cabernet is loaded with ripe black fruits, sweet tannins and dazzling length on the palate, with beautifully measured oak and excellent overall balance. Another big-time cabernet from one of Napa's legendary producers. Rating: 94.

Shafer 2006 One Point Five, Stags Leap District ($70) — Shafer's One Point Five is a celebration of the happy partnership between John and Doug Shafer, the father-and-son team that has shepherded Shafer for nearly 30 years — 1 1/2 generations, they reckon. You want to be invited. The '06 is a beautiful expression of Stags Leap District Cabernet, offering lovely notes of dark fruit, mocha, cedar and dried herbs. Very impressive, rich and full in the mouth, with a long, lingering finish. Elegant and well balanced despite alcohol of nearly 15 percent. Rating: 94.

Colome 2007 Malbec, Argentina ($25) — The Colome estate vineyards are believed to be the highest in the world at an elevation of more than 10,000 feet in some places. This rarefied air certainly delivers the goods, for the Colome Estate Malbec at $25 is a fabulous example of Argentina's unique combination of quality and value. A complex red that exhibits dense layers of cassis and blackberry fruits, with alluring hints of clove, black pepper and violets, the Colome Malbec is a remarkable wine for the price, with excellent aging potential. Rating: 90.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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