Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

A wine journalist's work is never done. There are tastings and travel, travel and tastings, tastings and more tastings, until you come to think there must be an ocean of wine out there and we're never gonna run out of the stuff. There is and we won't.

So it's a journey, and along the way, quite a bit of interesting clutter accumulates in the notebook, anecdotal evidence of profound trends begging to be revealed. I would like to think so, at least.

To begin, I am told by a number of wine retailers that the economy has forced the fabled Napa Valley winery Caymus to steeply discount its top wine, Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon, from a wholesale price above $100 per bottle to about $65 (in California, at least).

That means you might shortly see the Special Selection cab on retail shelves for less than $100 a bottle, discounted about $70 per bottle from recent years. The discounts on iconic Napa Valley wines such as Special Selection are applying downward pressure on less expensive California cabs because the big boys are now dropping their prices into the territory occupied by cabs at the lower echelons.

The nationally "suggested retail" prices that typically accompany Wine Talk reviews are rendered somewhat meaningless until prices stabilize, but remain useful in the sense that they will help you spot the bargains at the high end should you be inclined to splurge. Thus I have recommended a number of pricy red wines this week confident that you might be able to find some of them well below the listed price.

A winery to watch is Napa's Artesa, a beautiful property located in the hills of the northern Carneros district. A winemaking change has delivered the brilliant Mark Beringer (formerly of Duckhorn and Raymond) to Artesa, and changes are afoot. The Artesa wines (pinot noir, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and merlot) have always been of high quality and a good bang for the buck, but you can expect Beringer to kick it up a notch. He's already changed the way Artesa handles incoming grapes, moving toward the gentler gravity flow method of production — a natural since the winery is built into a hillside and the grape receiving area is at the top of the hill. He also backed off on the use oak with the 2008 chardonnay (Beringer arrived in December) in an effort to move Artesa chard toward a cleaner, more elegant style with emphasis on fruit complexity and fresh acidity. And he is chomping at the bit to ramp up the merlot and sauvignon blanc programs, which is natural considering his Duckhorn background.

One of the best new wine brands in recent years has been Two Angels wines made by Bob Pepi. The Two Angels standard bearers are a petite sirah and a sauvignon blanc from the Shannon Ridge vineyard in Lake County, just north of the Napa Valley. Unlike most other mountain vineyards in California, Shannon Ridge is truly a hillside vineyard in the manner that Europe knows hillside vineyards in viticultural areas such as the northern Rhone or the Duero Valley. Planted on a steep 45-degree angle, this vineyard has naturally low yields and delivers gorgeous fruit, which Pepi crafts into superb petite sirah and sauvignon blanc at less than $20 a bottle. Don't be fooled by the screwcap closure. These are serious wines from a fabulous vineyard at very good prices given the quality in the bottle.

During this recession, Champagne sales have slipped dramatically in the United States. It has been reported, for example, that Moet-Hennessy's sales are down 28 percent this year on its multiple brands that include Dom Perignon, Veuve Cliquot, Moet & Chandon and Krug. The authority that controls production in the Champagne region, in its infinite wisdom, has decided to limit the harvest this year in a move designed to protect Champagne's high price points. I think I have a better idea: Lower the price, deplete the backed up inventory and make room for what was shaping up to be an exceptional harvest in Champagne. The current plan is nothing more than an attempt to manipulate the market as the Champagne houses did prior to the millennium celebration in 2000.

And we all know how that turned out. It backfired big time!

BEST BUY

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Two Angels 2007 Mayacamas Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley ($20) — This smooth mountain cabernet was sourced primarily from a stunning vineyard at an elevation of more than 1200 feet on Mount Veeder, near the demarcation that separates Napa Valley from Sonoma Valley. The fact that it's a few hundred yards to the west, on the Sonoma Valley side of the line, probably saves you about $20 a bottle. You won't find richness and weight like this in just about any other $20 cab, let alone the complex red and black fruit aromas combined with notes of spice, violet, dried herbs and mocha. And the tannins are remarkably silky at this stage. Until something better comes along, this is the cabernet steal of the vintage. Rating: 92.

Bonny Doon 2005 Le Pousseur Syrah, Central Coast ($15) — The history of syrah in California is relatively recent. Walter Schug made the first varietal syrah at Joseph Phelps Vineyards in the Napa Valley in the early 1970s, but the grape didn't really begin to get traction with vintners until Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon (the original Rhone Ranger) brought notoriety to the so-called Rhone grape varieties nearly a decade later. Others have advanced the ball to the point where today syrah is a red wine staple alongside cabernet sauvignon and merlot at many wineries. The style has evolved as well, with syrah joining the march toward ever more fruit-driven, powerful red wine. Grahm has remained true to his vision, however. Those who know and love the earthier red wines of France's Rhone Valley, which exhibit minerals and fruit in roughly equal balance, with intriguing aromatic complexity and remarkable longevity in the cellar, should flip over Le Pousseur. It's a brilliant interpretation of a spicy, earthy, minerally Rhone Valley red — to my palate, similar to a Cornas — and the price is ridiculously low. Buy now, buy often, and buy by the case. Rating: 91.

TASTING NOTES

Parallel 2006 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($125) — This first release from Parallel's estate vineyard in the hills east of St. Helena is vintage Philippe Melka. Rich and dense, this powerful 100 percent cabernet sauvignon delivers the heft that is typical of cabs from the warmer eastern side of the Napa Valley. Along with the power, however, comes the grace and finesse that are the signature aspects of a Melka wine: layered complexity, an overlay of toasty oak, hints of spice and dried herbs, with a subtle element of white chocolate, and seamless tannins. An auspicious debut for this promising property. Rating: 96.

Robert Craig 2006 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($80) — Easily one of the nicest Napa Valley cabernets I've tasted this year. It shows intense aromas of cassis, blackberry and lavender on the nose, followed on the palate by layers of black cherry, coffee bean and white pepper. Very complex and elegant despite its powerful structure. Tannins are nicely integrated, too. This wine will age beautifully, but it's fairly incredible even at this early stage. Rating: 96.

Craggy Range 2007 Bannockburn Sluicings Vineyard Pinot Noir, Central Otago, New Zealand ($50) — Notes of red berry, tealeaf and wild flowers on the nose. On the palate, the generous layers of red and black fruits are supported by firm acidity, grainy tannins and a stony minerality. With a backnote of spice and earth, this is a classy pinot that is several years from optimum drinking, making it a perfect candidate for cellaring. More Burgundian than New World, Craggy Range's Bannockburn Sluicings will appeal to wine enthusiasts fond of the structure and class of premier and grand cru red Burgundy. Rating: 95.

Craggy Range 2007 Calvert Vineyard Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, New Zealand ($50) — From a vineyard that is farmed biodynamically, the Calvert Vineyard in Bannockburn on the South Island, this classy pinot exhibits bright red fruit, violets and fragrant herbs on the nose. On the palate, it delivers generous, juicy flesh with excellent backbone, and smooth, integrated tannins and a touch of minerality. Rating: 94.

Robert Craig 2006 Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($70) — For the patient, this powerful mountain cabernet is a good bet over the long haul. Its massive fruit and impressive structure are best suited for cellaring, although with a thick rib-eye, it might be possible to enjoy this wine tonight. Loaded with black fruits and complemented by nuances of mocha, lead pencil, spice and woodsmoke, it's an impressive wine that's ideally suited for special occasions or long-term ageing. Rating: 92.

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