Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

Legend has it that Sir Winston Churchill drank a bottle of Port a day. The average American most likely consumes less than that in a lifetime, despite the widely held perception that Port is one of the great wines of the world.

That raises a good question. Why is Port not on a par in America with the storied wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy, or even Barolo and the Brunello of Montalcino? The answer, I'm afraid, is an utter breakdown in communication.

American wine enthusiasts are aware of the greatness of Port, sort of, but they're not quite sure why. They seldom drink the stuff, and the promiscuous use of the term "port" has confused even those who've been paying attention.

Port, with a small p, is produced the world over. It's used every day (despite recent trade agreements that are attempting to protect the term Port for Portuguese use only) to describe just about any fortified red dessert wine, much as "sherry" is used to describe most any fortified white dessert wine.

The Port of every serious wine collector's dreams, however, is only produced in the rural quintas of the Douro Valley of Portugal and matured in the lodges of Vila Nova de Gaia, near the city of Porto.

Yet once a wine lover has mastered that nuance, there's just a bit more to learn, for Port is a wine of multiple personalities and manifestations. There are simple ruby and tawny Ports that are inexpensive and not much different from the imitations widely produced from Australia to the United States. Then there are the wood-aged ruby Ports classified as "Vintage Character" and "Late Bottled Vintage."

It should be noted that "tawny" Ports are so-called because they've had extended aging in wooden barrels and have lost their bright "ruby" color, turning to amber and caramel. Tawny Ports taste different, too, losing the primary dark-fruit aromas of ruby Port and taking on aromas of dried fruits, nuts and sweet spices.

Finer tawnies have an "age statement" on the bottle — usually 10, 20, 30 or 40 years. The older the tawny, the more it will cost. While aged tawny Ports are considered precious and can be expensive, ranging in price from $35 to more than $100 a bottle, the most prized Ports are Vintage Ports. The best of those can easily age a century or more and are genuine collectibles.

There is a subdivision in the Vintage Port category that allows for "single-quinta" vintage Ports. A quinta is merely a wine estate and most large producers, such as Taylor-Fladgate, Fonseca or Graham's, own several quintas and blend their finest grapes from each into their Vintage Ports.

Vintages are not declared every year, but the best estates are often bottled as single-quinta vintage Ports, even when the company has declined to declare.

Those Ports are unique and special in their own way, but seldom fetch the lofty prices of a declared vintage. Vintage Ports are aged two years in barrel before bottling, and age to maturity over many years in the bottle.

It is best to not serve a Vintage Port until it is at least 10 years old, so most collectors are only now beginning to enjoy their wines from the great 1997 and 2000 vintages. Vintage Character (sometimes called "reserve" Ports) and Late Bottled Vintage (aged up to four years in barrel) are meant to be ready to drink upon release.

For consistency and availability, my own collection of Ports is focused on such producers as Taylor-Fladgate (the same as Taylor's in the rest of the world), Fonseca and Graham's. When I can find them, I enjoy the Vintage Ports of Dow's, Smith-Woodhouse and the single quintas of Quinta do Vesuvio and Vargellas.

The most widely available Vintage Character Port is Fonseca Bin 27, which is a good value at about $17. For an experience that is closer to Vintage Port, however, Graham's Six Grapes is the finest Vintage Character Port on the market, but you will pay a little more for that pleasure.

Contrary to urban legend, Port is not best served with a fine cigar. That is one way to enjoy a glass of Port, but it truly is best with food. Tawny Ports complement sweets, especially cakes and custards, nicely. Vintage Ports and other ruby Ports are exceptional with savory cheeses.

BEST BUY

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Vigna Dogarina Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, Italy ($16) — This multi-vintage prosecco exhibits a floral perfume on the nose and a gentle toastiness that is very attractive. On the palate the flavors are precise and persistent, showing notes of green apple and citrus/lime. The Vigna Dogarina is refreshing and intense, with good intensity and length, leaving the impression it might be a more expensive wine than it is. Perfect as an aperitif or party sparkler through the holidays and beyond. Rating: 89.

TASTING NOTES

ROAR 2007 Pisoni Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands ($55) — Gary and Rosella Franscioni are the dynamic couple behind ROAR. Given the fact that they are probably the most respected grape growers in Monterey County's Santa Lucia Highlands, it should come as no surprise that their own wines are somewhat sensational. The '07 ROAR Pisoni is a stunning example of the power, complexity and finesse that makes wines from this vineyard collectibles. Despite impressive layers of black fruit, this silky pinot weighs easily on the palate, offering uncommon elegance, complex nuances of black currant, black cherry and forest floor, with a heady floral note as well. A California pinot noir for the ages or right now. Rating: 96.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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