Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

This week I recommend two wines that both thrilled me, and gave me pause. They are a Syrah and Merlot from Nickel & Nickel, the Napa Valley winery that is the epitome in impeccable winemaking.

Nickel & Nickel produces a number of vineyard-specific wines that illustrate the diversity and quality of terroir throughout Napa and Sonoma. The wines that got my attention were a Syrah from the Darien Vineyard in the Russian River Valley and a Merlot from the Suscol Ranch in the Jamieson Canyon district of the Napa Valley.

Merlot, as you may know, has been held in contempt ever since the movie "Sideways" cast a long shadow over the category with derisive comments from the star of the film. Syrah, rightly or wrongly, has never even had the cachet Merlot may have briefly enjoyed before it was so rudely dissed. Syrah has been touted as the next big thing in wine for nearly 20 years now, and we're still waiting.

I bring this up because neither grape gets the respect it deserves from the American wine enthusiast, despite the fact that Merlot-based wines from the Right Bank of Bordeaux and Syrah from the northern Rhone region of southern France are widely recognized as some of the finest in the world.

I believe I know why, and Nickel & Nickel provides the most important clue. The Darien Syrah and the Suscol Merlot are as good as red wine gets in California. They are world-class wines that can hold their own, regardless of price or region of origin. If everyone in California made Syrah and Merlot at this level, there would be no lack of respect to discuss.

But everyone doesn't.

Merlot suffered from its own popularity in the 1980s, when consumers fell in love with the wines of Duckhorn and Matanzas Creek. Vintners couldn't plant Merlot fast enough to catch the new wave of enthusiasm for varietal Merlot. Prior to Duckhorn, Matanzas and a few others, Merlot had been used primarily for blending.

"Most of the Napa Valley is too warm for Merlot," winemaker Cathy Corison told me recently.

Indeed, the best Merlot from Napa is grown in the cooler areas of the valley, such as Jamieson Canyon or Carneros. Too much Merlot ended up being planted in areas where it makes wine that isn't very structured or interesting.

The same could be said of Syrah, although there is no doubt Syrah is more versatile than Merlot. Syrah suffers, I believe, from California's Baskin-Robbins approach to wine. Too many wineries believe they must produce a little bit of everything, and Syrah goes in whether it's suitable for the terroir or not. Then it's treated like a Cabernet Sauvignon and made in a ponderous style that is anything but inviting.

The success of both grapes at Nickel & Nickel sends a message that should be loud and clear. When grown in the right place and handled intelligently and meticulously in the winery, California Syrah and Merlot can be as good as it gets.

To the California wine industry, I would simply say, more wines like this please!

BEST VALUE

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Pine Ridge 2009 Chenin Blanc-Viognier, California ($14) — Let's say you are in the market for a refreshing white wine to get you through the end of summer, and you're in the mood for something different. It can't be expensive because it's going to be a quaffer for after work or while slaving over the outdoor BBQ grill. Oh, and it should be delicious. That just about describes the Chenin Viognier blend from Pine Ridge, which has long been among my favorite summer whites. The Napa Valley winery sources the Chenin from Clarksburg and the Viognier from Lodi. It shows lovely stone fruit aromas, a whiff of honey and all with a lively, juicy mouthfeel. And it's below 12 percent alcohol. Rating: 88.

Seven Hills 2009 Riesling, Columbia Valley ($14) — This vintage of Seven Hills exhibits bright citrus nose, with mineral hints.

On the palate it is crisp and fresh, with lively acidity and a honeysuckle note that carries through the finish. At 12 percent alcohol, it may be light in body but not in flavor. It's off dry but beautifully balanced, with a clean finish. Rating: 88.

Chateau St. Jean 2009 Fume Blanc, Sonoma County ($13) — Looking for a pleasant quaffing white for summer, look no further. CSJ's Fume is modestly priced at $13 and delivers lovely citrus and floral notes, with hints of pear and spice. It's well balanced and comes in below 14 percent on the alcohol, making it especially suitable for those sizzling days and warm nights. And there's enough substance to stand up to grilled fish and steamed clams and mussels. Rating: 87.

TASTING NOTES

Nickel & Nickel 2007 Darien Vineyard Syrah, Russian River Valley ($48) — The problem with Syrah in California is Syrah in California. There are plenty of good Syrahs, few great Syrahs. So Nickel & Nickel's meaty, earthy Syrah from the Darien Vineyard in the Russian River Valley stands out from the crowd. It's spicy, rich and smoky, with supple tannins and layered red and black fruits. Though the alcohol is a bit high at 14.9 percent, the wine doesn't come off hot. It's well balanced and shows a sexy bit of minerality. If you're fond of the Syrahs of the northern Rhone, you will absolutely dig this classy, hedonistic Syrah from northern California. Rating: 96.

Nickel & Nickel 2007 Suscol Ranch Merlot, Napa Valley ($55) — There are a handful of California producers who consistently make exciting Merlot, and Nickel & Nickel is one of them. The secret is in the vineyard sources, for much of the Napa Valley is too warm for high class Merlot. Nickel & Nickel's Suscol Ranch Merlot is grown in the cool southern end of the Napa Valley, an area known as Jamieson Canyon. The Jamieson Canyon is often blanketed with fog, and temps can be 10 to 12 degrees cooler than vineyards up in the valley. This vintage of Suscol offers ripe blackberry and plum fruit, a rich and juicy mid-palate, and a sexy, spicy finish. It's a real crowd-pleaser that will make you forget everything you thought about California Merlot. Rating: 95.

Nickel & Nickel, 2008 Truchard Vineyard Chardonnay, Carneros ($45) — Truchard is one of the top growers in the Carneros (they also make wines under their own name) and Nickel & Nickel is one of the top wineries in the Napa Valley. That's a powerful combination, and year after year, they team up on a Chardonnay to die for. The 2008 is no exception. This vintage exhibits the intense lemon creme — lemon oil characteristic that all splendid Chardonnay possesses — along with subtle brown spice notes, juicy acidity and a trace of minerality behind the fruit. World-class Chardonnay by any standard you could imagine. Rating: 93.

Stonestreet 2008 Broken Road Chardonnay, Alexander Valley ($55) — Chardonnay over the years has had success in the Alexander Valley, but it was of a fashion that reflected the warmth of the location. They were generally fat and oily, and there was certainly a market for that. But Alexander Valley is Cabernet country, and Chardonnay will likely always play second fiddle. That said, there are exceptions, and Stonestreet's Broken Road Vineyard Chardonnay is a good example. It's an Alexander Valley Chardonnay that behaves a bit like a cool-climate Chardonnay, from its firm acid backbone to the hint of minerality that is unusual for this region. At the core is a beautiful beam of lemony fruit, what I call lemon creme or lemon oil, and it's the marker for seriously good Chardonnay. The oak expresses itself with a lovely spice note on the nose that carries through the finish. It's elegant but not lean, exhibiting an alluring, creamy texture. You might not guess it was from Sonoma Coast or the Russian River, but you'd likely never think Alexander Valley, either. The cool-climate attributes are no doubt due to the elevation of the vineyard — 1,800 feet up Alexander Mountain. Whatever the reason, you are unlikely to find a much better Chard in these parts. Rating: 93.

Ehlers Estate 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, St. Helena ($28) — This is a Sauvignon style that goes against the grain in the Napa Valley, where the model is Bordeaux and the flavors tend to be riper. Ehlers Sauvignon is more Loire Valley than Bordeaux, exhibiting a lean structure, with firm acidity, bright citrus notes and a generous dose of minerality. Bring on the freshly shucked oysters! Rating: 90.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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