Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

After 17 years as director of the venerable Monterey Wine Competition, I've come to expect the unexpected. So, surprised I wasn't when the hands went up en masse as we polled the judges on the one Vignoles in the showdown for Best of Show white wine this year.

Vignoles is a French hybrid grape that was developed in the first half of the 20th century to combat phylloxera, a microscopic bug that devastated the vineyards of Europe and North America at the turn of the century. Vignoles is planted widely in the East and Midwest of the United States because it copes well with growing conditions in those challenging environs.

Wines from Vignoles are made in varying styles from dry to sweet, much the way the German grape Riesling is used. Its characteristics are an expressive floral bouquet coupled with flavors and aromas of citrus fruits and pineapple, with refreshing acidity.

On this day at the Salinas Valley Fairgrounds in King City, Calif., the Vignoles was on the sweet side at 7 percent residual sugar. It hailed from the James Arthur Vineyards of Nebraska. It retails for a modest $15 per 750ml bottle. The judges were all from the California wine industry, where grapes such as Vignoles are rarely discussed and almost never tasted.

Still, good wine is good wine, regardless of its origin or pedigree. To their eternal credit, the band of West Coast California-centric judges approached the task with an open mind and gave the 2009 James Arthur Vignoles enough votes to finish in a dead heat with Chateau Ste. Michelle's 2008 Eroica Dr. Loosen Riesling ($24) for Best of Show white wine at the 2010 Monterey Wine Competition.

All I can say to that is wow!

The MWC also awarded Best of Show honors in three other classifications, but those outcomes weren't nearly as startling. The Napa Valley's V. Sattui — historically one of the top medal-winning wineries in the country — captured Best of Show red with its 2007 Merlot ($25); the Gloria Ferrer 2002 Royal Cuvee Brut ($35) took Best of Show sparkling; and Kendall-Jackson's 2007 Late Harvest Riesling ($25 per 375ml bottle) was voted Best of Show dessert wine.

As I do every year following the Monterey event, I make note of "value" gold medal wines that have caught my eye. The Monterey competition is a tool for the value-seeking consumer because of its timing — early enough in the year that the winning wines are still in plentiful supply and thus easier to find.

THE VALUE GOLDS:

EOS Estate Winery 2007 French Connection, Paso Robles ($18) — This red Bordeaux-style blend from the up-and-coming Paso Robles region is a steal in this price range. It was nominated for the sweepstakes round of voting for Best of Show, and thus was elevated from gold to platinum.

Ventana Vineyards 2007 Rubystone, Arroyo Seco ($18) — Another gold that was elevated to Platinum as a result of being nominated for Best of Show consideration.

This red Rhone-style blend is heavy on the Grenache, which lends a pure red-fruit aroma profile. The scent of white pepper is unmistakable and very sexy. The previous vintage of Rubystone also earned gold and made it to the sweepstakes of the 2009 Monterey Wine Competition.

Castello Banfi 2008 Centine Bianco, Toscana ($12) — This blend of Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay is a sensational everyday white, delivering refreshing and complex flavors at a low, low cost.

Lava Cap 2007 Barbera Reserve, El Dorado ($18) — The wines of California's Sierra Foothills aren't the easiest to find, but they are certainly worthy of the effort to seek them out. This one's great for grilled meats with savory seasonings or with flavorful pasta dishes.

Little Black Dress 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($11) — It's a feat to be able to tantalize the taste buds with a mass-produced commercial Cabernet, but Little Black Dress pulls it off consistently. If you're on a tight budget, this is a great Cab for the money. PS: At the same price, the Little Black Dress 2008 Chardonnay also earned Platinum!

Villa San-Juliette 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles ($15) — Dollar for dollar perhaps the best value in red wine I encountered at this year's Monterey competition. The winemaker, Adam LaZarre, is a rising star and his wines at Hahn Estates, his previous stop, were stellar over the better part of his decade there. This one was elevated to Platinum by virtue of its presence in the sweepstakes round.

Fleur de California 2007 Pinot Noir, Carneros ($17) — You simply don't find many gold medal Pinots for less than $20 a bottle. Or even $30 a bottle. So this wine stands out on the merits and the price. Get it while it lasts.

Fish Eye 2007 Pinot Noir, South Eastern Australia ($7) — See the above!

Jefferson Vineyards 2008 Petit Verdot, Virginia ($19) — I realize this wine from southern Virginia will be nearly impossible to source unless you are visiting the Charlottesville area for some reason, but I mention it because the panel that judged it loved it, and one even pegged it for a Virginia wine.

Segura Viudas 2003 Mas d'Aranyo Tempranillo, Penedes ($15) — We've been saying for some time that Spain is home to many of the greatest values in collectible red wine. I would be proud to have several bottles of this wine in my cellar — in fact, I do.

Tapena 2008 Tempranillo, Tierra de Castilla ($10) — These guys in the unregulated region of La Mancha are doing a fabulous job with huge volumes of Spanish reds and whites. You cannot only afford them, but they're also delicious!

Domaine Ste. Michelle Brut, Columbia Valley ($13) — In the world of inexpensive bubbly, this non-vintage beauty from Ste. Michelle is a standout. If you have a wedding or other large party planned for this spring and summer and hope to serve a good bubbly that won't break the bank, you could do way worse than this.

Navarro Vineyards 2008 Muscat Blanc, Anderson Valley ($19) — Though I know this wine would be difficult to find and Muscat, for some people, is a very hard sell, I am confident that no open-minded wine lover would fail to see the charms of this dry, well-balanced, floral beauty from one of California's most accomplished producers of aromatic white wines.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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