Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

The great red wines of northern Italy — Barolo and Barbaresco — and, to a lesser extent, the significant red wines of central and southern Italy have recently taken on increasing importance among wine enthusiasts who collect as a hobby and a passion.

The feeding frenzy over the new vintage of Bordeaux, which none other than critic Robert Parker has characterized as the vintage of his lifetime, has made it impossible for all but those with the deepest pockets to consider an investment in Bordeaux 2009.

I have no qualms about the excitement being generated by '09 Bordeaux. It is a very sexy vintage, although in my own experience, I would not rate it as highly as Parker, the Mr. Bordeaux of our time.

Nevertheless, Parker is on record and the markets are rocking because top-drawer Bordeaux, the ultimate wine collectible, is now more expensive than ever. So, what's a poor (you can take that literally if you wish) wine lover to do? I can't get anywhere near the first growths — or so-called "super seconds" — available in the '09 Bordeaux futures pool, but I do have several open slots in my cellar that cry out for red wine that may need another seven to 12 years of age before reaching maturity.

Other than Bordeaux and Burgundy, my favorite wine collectibles come from Italy — Barolo, Barbaresco, Brunello di Montalcino, the Super Tuscans and a handful of the remarkable Aglianico-based wines of Campania and Basilicata.

The best from these regions are renowned for their longevity, and they mature to greatness in the same fashion as fine Bordeaux and Burgundy. And here's the sweet part — though no one would describe these wines as cheap or even inexpensive, they are a fraction of the cost of an '09 first-growth Bordeaux.

Two of the most coveted producers from these areas, Gaja and Biondi-Santi, might go for as much as $250 a bottle from a good vintage, though I have found both for less. All of the others are much less, even for the best wines from the best vintages.

Just for fun, here is a brief wish list:

1. Gaja Sperss is the one wine I want if I have to be stranded on a tropical island with no hope of rescue. Any vintage will do, but I did recently purchase a number of bottles of the 1998 for about $150 a bottle (it's usually $100 more per bottle, so it was a deal) and it is showing beautifully, and it will continue to hold its peak for a number of years to come.

2. Biondi-Santi Riserva Brunello di Montalcino isn't cheap by any means, but compared to the price of the '09 Bordeaux, it's a steal even at about $250 a bottle. I am fond of the 2001 and 2004.

3. Feudi di San Gregorio Serpico, an Aglianico-based red from Campania, will set you back at least $100 a bottle if you can find it, so I tend to pick up the odd bottle (for much less) on my somewhat regular trips to Italy.

4. La Massa Giorgio Primo Chianti Classico is considered by many to be a Super Tuscan, despite the fact it is 100 percent Sangiovese and meets the requirements to be labeled Chianti Classico. No matter what you call it, it's delicious and a bargain in this group, at less than $100 a bottle when you can find it.

5. Il Poggione Riserva Brunello di Montalcino is perhaps my favorite Brunello after the Biondi-Santi.

In the best years, it is remarkably complex, remarkably smooth. If you can lay your hands on a few bottles for less than $100 each, consider yourself lucky!

Next time you need a "great wine" fix for your cellar and you haven't yet hit the lottery, spend a minute or two in the primo Italian section at your favorite wine shop. You won't die of thirst!

BEST BUY

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Carmel Road 2008 Chardonnay, Monterey County ($18) — More and more, we are seeing California Chardonnay with mouthwatering acidity, crisp citrus fruit and scintillating minerality — and yet richness and flesh, too. The new Carmel Road Chard has all of that and more, with a delicious nuance of lemon creme and spice. And the price is manageable! This is Chardonnay that works well with food (think swordfish), but it also works as a refreshing white wine by the glass. Rating: 90.

Decoy 2009 Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Napa Valley ($18) — One of the most positive trends in California Sauvignon over the past decade or so is the shedding of Sauvignon's simple, one-note reputation. This is achieved through blending, generally, and sometimes multiple passes through the vineyard to pick at different ripeness levels, each with its own flavor profile. The '09 Decoy offers a great deal of complexity for any wine in this price range, exhibiting aromas of fresh citrus, mown grass, white peach and kiwi. It's well balanced yet rich (I attribute this to the 21 percent Semillon in the blend) with fresh acidity that bodes well for prospective food pairings. Rating: 90.

Vina Robles 2008 Huerhuero 'Red' ($16) — They're calling this a GSM-P, short for Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Petite Sirah. Whatever you call it, call it tasty. Vina Robles 'Red' is a supple, juicy red wine that offers luscious red and black fruit aromas, sweet tannins and a long, lip-smacking finish. There is a slightly dominant note of oak on the nose, but that should dissipate over time. Mark it down as an outstanding summer barbecue red at a reasonable price! Rating: 88.

TASTING NOTES

Alma Rosa 2006 La Encantada Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills ($43) — There are so many things to like about the '06 La Encantada Pinot Noir from Alma Rosa that I hardly know where to begin. For starters, it's less than 14 percent alcohol yet it's packed with flavor, which defies the conventional wisdom. It has good acid, which makes it food friendly. The winemaker, Christian Roguenant, is among California's most respected. The grapes for this wine are certified organic from La Encantada vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills, a sub-appellation within the Santa Ynez Valley. Last but not least, it is positively delicious, exhibiting deep notes of raspberry and black cherry, with a mild forest-floor nuance, floral notes and hints of spicy oak. And best of all, it's a triumph for the Pinot Noir pioneer, owner Richard Sanford. Rating: 95.

Decoy 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($25) — Doubtless one of the finest, if not the finest, $25 Cabs produced in the Napa Valley this vintage, the '08 Decoy Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits richness and complexity on the nose, with a lush palate of ripe black and red fruits, beautifully integrated tannins and a tantalizing finish. My hunch is that some of the Napa fruit that would normally would have gone to Duckhorn, the sister winery, was diverted to Decoy because of the economic gridlock facing more expensive wines. Whether that's the case or not, the '08 Duckhorn Cab is money well spent. Rating: 91.

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