Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

With all of the focus these days on value wines, it seems a good time to take the road less traveled with a brief walk on the wild side.

This came to me as I methodically worked my way through a stack of wine samples that seemed several cuts above the norm. No surprise there, really, because it turned out the stack was loaded with wines from three of California's most stellar performers: Sbragia Family Vineyards, Merry Edwards and Duckhorn Vineyards.

Ed Sbragia, of course, was the longtime winemaker at Beringer Vineyards, where he twice produced a Wine Spectator wine of the year, one a Cabernet Sauvignon, the other a Chardonnay. Merry Edwards was among the earliest, if not the first, woman winemakers to become a superstar in California wine. And Duckhorn is merely the winery that put California merlot on the map and inspired the merlot craze of the early 1980s.

Virtually all of the new releases from these three were outstanding, leaving me something of a challenge given the prevailing economic climate and the consumer tilt toward value wines. As you might expect, most of the Sbragia, Merry Edwards and Duckhorn wines are on the pricey side.

I've elected to present them anyway, reasoning that these impressive but expensive wines might well be appealing as we head into the holiday season and demand grows for those "special" wines that can be used as gifts. All of the wines reviewed this week would qualify.

So, here you have it. If you're feeling flush and need a wine to score big points with someone important to you, take a walk on the wild side.

TASTING NOTES

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Joseph Phelps 2006 Backus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville ($250) — The flinty minerality of the '06 Backus is nearly as attractive as the purity and vibrancy of the fruit. This vintages offer penetrating aromas of blackberry and plum, with a floral note of violets. On the palate the structure is magnificent, exhibiting fine tannins, fresh acidity and wonderful, flesh Napa Valley fruit. Concentrated and powerful, yet as elegant as any Napa Valley red I've yet tasted from the vintage. This is simply superb Napa Cabernet and perhaps one of the finest ever from Phelps' Backus Vineyard, along the Silverado Trail. Rating: 98.

Sbragia Family Vineyards 2006 Cimarossa Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain ($75) — It's worth noting that Howell Mountain has been good to Sbragia. As winemaker at Beringer Vineyards, he earned accolades for the winery's Howell Mountain Merlot, which is certainly one of the top three or four Merlots made in California. This Cimarossa Vineyard Cabernet reminds me a bit of the Beringer Howell Mountain Merlot, from the silky tannins to the rich aromas of cassis and blackberry to the tantalizingly long finish. Hints of tobacco and cedar provide pleasing secondary complexities. This is one of Sbragia's best Cabs yet at his family winery. Rating: 96.

Sbragia Family Vineyards 2006 Rancho Del Oso Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain ($75) — Of the new releases of Cabernets from Sbragia, the Rancho Del Oso is the least appealing for drinking now. Just you wait, however, for this is a monster mountain Cab merely biding its time. It's rich and powerful without sacrificing elegance, and exhibits an abundance of tannin that makes immediate consumption problematic. Another three to six years in the cellar, however, will do wonders for this hefty Napa Valley Cabernet. The dominant element is ripe black fruit, with a mouthful of tannin and hints of mocha, spice and the telltale Sbragia cedar and tobacco. Those with the patience to wait will find this of the finest Cabs of vintage. Rating: 95.

Joseph Phelps 2006 'Insignia', Napa Valley ($200) — Phelps Insignia was the original Bordeaux-style meritage blend from California. Over the years, it has built a mystique and attained iconic stature as one of the Napa Valley's greatest red wines. Many wineries have been there and done that, but few have maintained the competitive edge and market dominance the way Phelps has. They do it with remarkable consistency of quality vintage after vintage and have unwavering standards. The 2006 Insignia shows concentrated ripe fruit, inky dark color, heady aromas of violets and spice, with layers of vibrant blueberry, blackberry and cassis buttressed by fine tannins and lovely secondary flavors, such as mocha and coffee.

Merry Edwards 2007 Olivet Lane Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($60) — Olivet Lane has long been a benchmark Pinot for Merry. The '07 vintage provides a beautiful example of Olivet Lane at its best. With a pure black cherry and spice nose and a subtle hint of the earth, the aromas simply pull you into the glass. On the palate, the silky tannins remind you this is one of the stars of California Pinot Noir. And the complex layers of fruit and hedonistic opulence are further evidence that this is one outstanding Pinot Noir vineyard in the hands of a Pinot Noir genius. Rating: 95.

Duckhorn Vineyards 2006 Estate Merlot, Napa Valley ($85) — Few can remember when Merlot was all the rage in California wine. That was some two decades ago. Leading the charge was Duckhorn, which staked its claim as a Merlot specialist at a time when most New World vintners saw Merlot as little more than a blending agent to soften the big Cabernets of the day. Duckhorn wasn't the first Napa Valley winery to produce a varietal Merlot, but it quickly assumed a position as the best. Nothing has changed. Duckhorn Merlot continues to dazzle, and the 2006 Estate Merlot is no exception. This is a seductive wine, exhibiting ripe red-fruit aromas, spice and beautifully soft tannins. The combination of power, depth and excellence are characteristic of Duckhorn's benchmark wine, and the '06 has all three in spades. A bit pricey, but this is one expensive wine that truly delivers the goods. Rating: 94.

Duckhorn Vineyards 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($27) — The Merlot king of the Napa Valley is also the Sauvignon king. In this case, the Sauvignon is Sauvignon Blanc, and Duckhorn does it as well or better than anyone else in the Napa Valley — and has since the first vintage in 1982. Duckhorn's Sauvignon leans more heavily on the Semillon grape (24 percent) than most other Sauvignons in the valley, lending richness and body that is unique to this producer. Duckhorn's Sauvignon also exhibits a citrus profile of grapefruit and lemon zest that is more pronounced than most, helping to balance the full, rich weight on the palate. The '08 is well-balanced and shows hints of minerality and dried herbs. Rating: 94.

Sbragia Family Vineyards 2006 Wall Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Mt. Veeder ($75) — The genius of Ed Sbragia is that he takes what the vineyard gives him while showing it in the best light. He did as much time and again as the chief winemaker of Beringer Vineyards for more than 20 years, and he has carried it over into his personal winemaking venture, Sbragia Family Vineyards. The '06 Wall Vineyard Cabernet exhibits ripe, deep black fruit aromas, with hints of cedar, earth and what the French call garrigue. There is a slight tobacco backnote that is warm and inviting, and the tannins are ripe and smooth, though ample enough for extended cellaring. This is a top-notch Napa Valley Cabernet built for the long haul. Rating: 93.

Merry Edwards 2007 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($42) — This ultra-smooth Pinot from the Merry Edwards stable would benefit from another year or two of bottle age, though that likely won't stop anyone from enjoying it now. It exhibits vibrant raspberry, currant and black cherry fruit, with an underlying hint of cola, and firm tannins that will yield the stage with a bit of time in the cellar. Ripe and full-bodied, this is a mouth-filling Pinot that will stand up to steaks and chops and just about any other red meat you might throw at it. Rating: 93.

Sbragia Family Vineyards 2006 Monte Rosso Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley ($50) — This unique vineyard site is located on the Sonoma side of the Mayacamas Mountains, which is the cooler side. The location has a profound influence on the wine, particularly fresher acidity and more red-fruited aroma than you might see in Cabs from the Napa side of the mountains. Yet Monte Rosso never has a problem with ripeness or green tannins because it sits above the fog line and has an extremely important southwest exposure to the sun. Sbragia's Monte Rosso is firmly structured and well- balanced, with exceptional persistence of flavor, complex layers of red and black fruits, and Sbragia's trademark hint of cedar. Rating: 93.

Merry Edwards 2007 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($36) — As we've watched the price of Pinot Noir creep to new heights, it must be comforting to pinotphiles to come across the Merry Edwards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir at a modest price considering its pedigree. Complexity and depth are the hallmark of a Merry Edwards Pinot, and the '07 Sonoma Coast exhibits all three. On the nose, the wine offers an inviting mix of wild blueberry and spice, with a leafy back note. On the palate it is rich and elegant, showing fine tannins, outstanding weight and length and a combination of red and black fruit aromas. Rating: 90.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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