Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

Perhaps, you are new to wine and wondering what's up with this war for the Brunello. It is, after all, merely wine. That is so true, and at the same time so wrong.

The battle lines have been drawn through the very soul of one of Italy's most important wine regions — Montalcino, birthplace of the Brunello di Montalcino nearly 150 years ago. Once upon a time, it was an impenetrable fortress against marauders, who would have sacked the village and burned it to the ground if not for the staunch resistance of its residents.

In central Italy, this quiet Tuscan hill town now finds itself at war with itself as the forces of modernity wage conflict with those who hold fast the traditions of the famous wine region. The battle was joined in June when the former enologist of Castello Banfi, Ezio Rivella, was elected president of the consorzio that governs production of the region's famous export, the Brunello di Montalcino, which is among the world's most collectible red wines.

Rivella has been making Brunello for more than three decades, having arrived in Montalcino when it was a sleepy village with no more than a dozen or so wineries and only one great voice on the world stage, the iconic Biondi-Santi. Rivella was an innovator while at Banfi; he introduced modern technology and viticultural practices that revolutionized wine production in the region.

His success and Banfi's global reach, especially into the wine markets of the United States, encouraged growth and brought prosperity to the region. There were at last count more than 200 producers of Brunello in Montalcino.

You could understandably surmise that Rivella's election as president of the consorzio would be hailed as a triumph to be toasted by all parties involved. Of course, everything in Italy being politically complicated, you would be terribly wrong.

Rivella and others, notably the famous Piedmont winemaker Angelo Gaja, who now produces Brunello as well, favor a change in the rules that govern Brunello production that would allow the so-called international grape varieties to be blended with the native Sangiovese grape to make a blended red wine called Brunello. For a century and a half, the rules have stipulated that Brunello must be 100 percent Sangiovese from classified Brunello vineyards.

Opponents of any change to the rules were so passionate that one of them, the respected Fabrizio Bindocci of Il Poggione, forged an 11-hour candidacy in an attempt to thwart Rivella. It failed.

There is chatter now of a "rebranding" of Brunello that is surely soon to come, especially given recent statements by Rivella that indicate many producers already skirt the rules and plump up their Brunello with grapes — such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah — in vintages that are difficult for Sangiovese.

As this opera plays out, I say this to those who enjoy Brunello and worry that the controversy will somehow wreck this great red wine: Not to worry. Traditional producers, such as Biondi-Santi and Il Poggione, already make exceptional wines that are sought after by collectors the world over. If they change nothing, their wines will continue to stand on the merits.

Wineries that embrace modern technology and utilize grapes that prosper in the terroir of Montalcino, particularly Merlot and Cabernet, will make better wines in the years when Sangiovese refuses to ripen and produces thin juice lacking in color.

Ultimately, consumers who prefer the more traditional taste of Brunello will seek out those wines.

Consumers who prefer juicier, more robust wines will gravitate in that direction.

What no one knows at this point is what shape an eventual compromise will take. There could be a simple rules change that opens the door to international grapes, as happened in the Chianti region of Tuscany several years ago. Or there could be two Brunello designations, one that preserves the traditions and another that adopts a new set of regulations.

I do see an end to this war. A truce is inevitable because without it the market for Brunello will be confused and perhaps falter. The members of the consorzio cast their ballots, and they voted for modernity. My hunch is the election of Rivella was intended to bring the issue to a head.

At the very least, it has done that.

BEST VALUE

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Taz 2008 Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County ($18) — You really don't have to empty your wallet to pick up an exceptional California Chardonnay. The 2008 Taz retails for less than $20, and it's at least as good as wines you might find at twice the price. It could even be a vineyard designate if the winery chose to label it that way. Fruit is sourced from Santa Barbara's Cat Canyon and it would be an understatement to say it's pretty good juice. This vintage exhibits a seductive lemon creme characteristic that remains fresh and juicy from first sip to last. The wine is well-balanced, with good acidity and lower alcohol (13.7 percent) than you might expect. For the price, one of the better Chardonnays you will find. Rating: 90.

Morgan 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey ($15) — Morgan has always given Sauvignon Blanc its due, treating the grape with the respect and attention it deserves. Vintage to vintage the style seems to vary, and the '09 shows a leaner, zippier style than I remember. The dominant note is an intense nose of ruby grapefruit, which is a common thread among many California Sauvignons. It's well made, refreshing and clean on the finish — a wonderful everyday Sauvignon that's distinctive enough to marry with shellfish and mild grilled fish, such as trout or halibut. Rating: 88.

TASTING NOTES

Russiz Superiore 2006 'Col Disore' Bianco, Collio, Italy ($37) — Friuli's Collio is renowned for its elegant white wines, and here in one wine you can taste four of the primary grapes of the district in one spectacular cuvee. This stunning blend is 40 percent Pinot Bianco and 35 percent Friulano, with Sauvignon and Ribolla Gialla making up the rest. It shows ripe, yellow stone fruits, a bit of a tropical note, with a good underpinning of acidity and just a hint of hazelnut and spice on the finish. Beautiful! Rating: 94.

Wakefield 2005 St. Andrews Riesling, Clare Valley, Australia ($30) — Australia's Clare Valley yields impressive dry Rieslings that are the equal of any made in Europe. Wakefield is among the top players in this arena, and its St. Andrews line is representative of the best Riesling the Clare has to offer. This '05 is a mouthwatering example that exhibits penetrating minerality, intense aromas of citrus and tropical fruit, with bracing acidity and a fresh, clean finish. Rating: 92.

Russiz Superiore 2005 Cabernet Franc, Collio, Italy ($26) — I understand not everyone will embrace this wine as I have. It is unusual, which is one of the aspects that I find attractive. And it is well made by one of Italy's top producers, Marco Felluga. This distinctive red has a dominant white pepper nose that mutes the fruit at first whiff. Be patience, for the blackberry, black currant and cherry fruit exists in abundance and will emerge after getting a bit of air. There is enough of a herbal nuance to identify the grape as Cab Franc, but otherwise this is a wine that will stump — and likely please — many an expert. And you'll love the fact that it's only 13.5 percent alcohol, giving it a lightness and freshness on the palate that makes for a perfect summer red. Rating: 90.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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