Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

Lunch with winemaker Randall Grahm the other day was a trip, as I suspected it might be. Among other things, I learned that evil spirits haunt the Languedoc region of southern France, near Carcassonne, where I vacationed over the summer. Seems Randall spent a night in Carcassonne some years ago and believes his body was invaded.

That would explain a few things, though with the "Doonster" you sometimes don't know whether he's giving you the tongue-in-cheek magic carpet ride or simply his unique, psychedelic vision of the world. No matter, it's all part of the shtick, the persona Grahm cleverly projected when he launched his most important wine, Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant, a quarter-century ago.

Le Cigare Volant in French translates literally to the flying cigar, which can be interpreted to mean flying saucer. Le Cigare Volant, the wine, is Grahm's interpretation of the classic French red blend from the Rhone Valley, Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Sometime in the early 1950s the vignerons of Chateauneuf-du-Pape successfully advocated a law forbidding le cigare volant — flying saucers were what they had in mind — from hovering near or landing in their vineyards, lest they be impounded.

Grahm had a bit of fun with that, and to this day, the Le Cigare Volant label depicts a flying saucer beaming up a winemaker from his oxcart in what looks to be the south of France. Geography buffs might note that Carcassonne and Chateauneuf-du-Pape are not that far apart, though I don't necessarily draw a direct connection between the invasion of Grahm's body and his wild imagination.

I'm more inclined to believe there are some mighty funny mushrooms growing near the Bonny Doon encampment in California's Santa Cruz Mountains, or there's something mildly hallucinogenic in the water. Whatever the source, Randall's star is forever hitched to his witty but whacky spin on the world of wine.

"If I died tomorrow, I would be remembered as a great marketer," Grahm told me. On paper that would appear to be a boast. It was anything but.

Randall Grahm, you should know, is a student of wine. He has walked the fabled vineyards of France and Italy in search of the truth, believing as serious winemakers do that the secrets of great wine are kept in the vineyards.

On some level, despite critical acclaim, Grahm seems to believe he's never made what he would consider a great wine, a wine for the ages. I might disagree, but what I think doesn't matter. Randall knows what he wants.

"To make wines that taste of their terroir," he said, adding that his quest is for wines that bear the signature characteristics of a specific vineyard or place.

The Bonny Doon and Ca' del Solo wines for which Grahm is rightly famous are very, very good, but they probably aren't easily connected in the imagination — nor on the palate — back to the vineyard source. In Grahm's mind, all great wines are.

Toward that objective, he has purchased land in California's Cienega Valley, near the town of San Juan Bautista, northeast of Monterey. Calera, which produces world-class pinot noir and chardonnay, would be the nearest neighbor of great repute.

The plan is to plant vineyards using the eclectic grape varieties for which he is well known. The vision is to make cutting-edge wines that reflect the soils and climate they spring from. The tone is deadly serious, a rare departure from the usual "Doonster" shtick.

And bottom line, Grahm is a smart guy. He realizes he makes good wines that often get lost in the ocean of other good wines a person could buy. He knows truly great wine sells, regardless of the economic cycle.

Not to put too fine a point on it, but that's marketing 101.

BEST BUYS

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Ajello 2006 'Majus' Nero d'Avola, Sicily, Italy ($12) — Mouth-filling, juicy, plummy fruit is the calling card for this simple but delicious expression of Sicily's most important red grape.

The fruit is gorgeous, the tannins fine and the balance exceptional. Hints of licorice and spice only add to the pleasure. Even at full price it's a steal. Rating: 89.

Maison Bouachon 2006 Cotes-du-Rhone, France ($15) — If every $15 wine were this good, most of us would seldom venture into the realm of more expensive wine. Maison Bouachon's Les Rabassieres is the perfect wine for so many occasions, owing to its delicacy — it is medium-bodied — and its complexity — it delivers an array of aromatic sensations from red fruits to black fruits to toasty oak, with a black pepper backnote that is most inviting. The wine is well balanced, with an earthy minerality, and will pair nicely with savory appetizers, grilled meats and earthy soups, such as French onion or wild mushroom. Rating: 88.

Li Veli 2007 'Orion' Primitivo, Salento, Italy ($13) — Looking for an inexpensive red wine that's loaded with character and complexity, easy to drink and on the low side of the alcohol scale? This could be your house red for the coming winter months. Li Veli's Orion Primitivo delivers robust red fruit aromas, hints of tobacco, smoke and tar, and a mere 13 percent alcohol. Yummy stuff for the money. Rating: 88.

TASTING NOTES

Maison Bouachon 2006 'La Tiare du Pape' Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France ($39) — Bouachon's Chateauneuf is a refined example of what the region can produce when it is focused on quality and terroir rather the opulence of overripe fruit, which remains the fashion at many neighboring properties. The La Tiare du Pape has a firm backbone, yet still exhibits sweet raspberry and blackcurrant fruit, with hints of cinnamon and vanilla spice. It is crafted to age gracefully over the next seven to 10 years, making it a candidate for a bit of extended maturation in the cellar. Rating: 92

Ceretto 2008 'Blange' Langhe Arneis, Italy ($27) — This oft-misunderstood grape of Italy's Piedmont region is prized for its unique character, which the Ceretto Blange has in spades. It's completely dry, yet exhibits an essence of sweetness in its succulent, honeyed finish, its juicy, plump peach and pear fruit on the front of the palate, and its underlying balance that speaks to an elegance and finesse that is oh-so-subtle. What a wonderfully delicious wine that will go with numerous pasta dishes in cream sauces, or shaved golden porcini mushrooms tossed with olive oil, salt and pepper. Rating: 92.

Silver Oak 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley ($70) — Silver Oak probably has as many critics as it does fans because of its controversial use of American Oak barrels, which is readily apparent in the '05 vintage from Alexander Valley. Though the wood aroma stands out, the Silver Oak has the fruit to stand up to the menthol, eucalyptus nuance that is imparted by the barrel. Aromas of dark cherry, clove and dried herbs are supported by fine tannins. This medium-bodied red is elegant, with a long finish and a sweet floral note on the back end. Fans of this style will love it. Rating: 92.

Ceretto 2007 'Rosanna' Dolcetto d'Alba, Italy ($25) — This stylish Dolcetto from one of the most meticulous producers of Piemonte is the quintessential food wine. It's perfectly balanced between fruit, acid, tannin and alcohol (a mere 13.5 percent), and shows bright red-fruited aromas with floral and mineral nuance that add an attractive complexity. Entirely unwooded, too. Rating: 91.

Avignonesi 2007 Rosso di Montepulciano, Italy ($17) — This is a superb rosso from Tuscany's Montepulciano district. From one of Italy's most renowned producers, the Avignonesi Rosso delivers fruit purity, exquisite balance and elegance in a wine that is barely a cut below the vaunted Vino Nobile of the region. It shows plump red-fruit aromas, fine tannins and firm acidity — a tremendous value at the price. Rating: 90.

Scott Family Estate 2007 'Dijon Clone' Pinot Noir, Arroyo Seco ($39) — It is encouraging to see pinot noir like this from Monterey County, where the emphasis in recent vintages has been on plate weight and ripe, jammy fruit. The Scott Family pinot exhibits lovely red fruit characteristics, a hint of spice and generally good balance. I would have rated it more highly if it had just a bit more bite. Still, for the money it will please the majority of pinot lovers without doing great damage to the wallet. Rating: 88.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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