Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

PAMPLONA, Spain — The Kingdom of Navarre is famous for many things. The festival of San Fermin, for example, when raging bulls run through the streets to the delight, and sometimes sheer terror, of tens of thousands of tourists.

It was also the birthplace of the Basque culture, and was once ruled (for 400 years, no less) by various kings of France. And Hemingway was here, of course.

Seldom mentioned is the wine of Navarre. This is the land of rose, mostly produced from the fruity grenache grape, which is known in Spain as "garnacha." But a funny thing happened on the way to vinous ignominy. The winemakers of Navarre (the region is situated at the base of the Pyrenees mountains that separate northeastern Spain from southwestern France) watched enviously as other Spanish wine regions soared in esteem, and a few decided to do something about the sorry state of wine affairs in Navarre.

Bodegas Julian Chivite, perhaps the most famous producer of Navarran rose, led the charge, planting cabernet sauvignon, merlot and tempranillo for the production of high-quality red wine. Chivite's Collecion 125 Reserva ($25) set the stage. This blended red wine delivers both quality and value, and what a fabulous example it has been, for those are the watchwords in Navarre.

On a recent trip to San Sebastian, about an hour from the wine country of Navarre, I had an opportunity to visit a number of bodegas and came away very impressed. The wines of Navarre haven't hit it big yet in the United States in the same way that wines from Priorat, Toro and the Rias Baixas have, but given the superb quality combined with modest pricing, it is only a matter of time.

Besides Bodegas Julian Chivite (look for the Chivite Gran Feudo wines, as well) I can commend the following wineries of Navarre for further tasting exploration.

TASTING NOTES

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

BODEGAS INURRIETA

This rising star in Navarran viticulture sits on 200 acres of what was once a tomato farm. Red grapes planted include cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, garnacha and graciano, but no tempranillo. The only white grape on the vine is sauvignon blanc. The wines are sleek and modern and quality is extremely high.

The 2007 Orchidea Sauvignon Blanc ($11, 90 points) is stainless steel fermented to preserve freshness and allow the fruit to shine. The nose smells of white peach, and on the palate the Orchidea offers complexity and richness, with excellent balance and length. It is without doubt one of the finest sauvignons I've tasted in Spain. It was here that I came across one of Navarre's finest value reds, the 2007 Inurrieta Kajo ($10, 89 points), a 100 percent garnacha that is perfectly bursting with red-fruited aromas, beautifully balanced and perfect for summer sipping.

The 2006 Norte ($10, 87), a blend of cabernet, merlot and petit verdot would be a spicy, juicy runner-up in that category.

Most impressive was the 2005 Altos de Inurrieta ($20, 92), a blend of cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and graciano. This is a concentrated wine that delivers power without forsaking finesse and balance. Aromas are blackberry and cassis, and there's an intriguing hint of black pepper spice.

BODEGA OTAZU

This winery has a little something for everyone, from its delicate, floral, honeyed 2007 Chardonnay (90 points, $15) and 2007 Sotovento ($13, 88), a silky 100 percent tempranillo, to the earthy, complex powerhouse 2003 Vitral ($70, 93). In between there are a number of delicious and inexpensive options, such as the 2004 Dimension ($20, 90), a blend of merlot, cabernet and tempranillo with the emphasis on merlot. Dimension is a lovely wine, with persistent black-fruit aromas, lively acidity and fine tannins.

The reds cellar very well (I tasted the Bordeaux-style Altar blend from both the 2001 and 2003 vintages) and show mature fruit, forest floor and cedar pencil aromas with a bit of age. Neither of the Altar vintages ($50) is currently available, but I rated both in the low 90-point range.

Bottom line on Bodega Otazu is that you can pretty much trust anything that comes out of this quality-driven winery.

CASTILLO DE MONJARDIN

While most of the wine renaissance in Navarre is focused on the red grape varieties, there is growing evidence the region is well situated for chardonnay. The indigenous white grape, viura, has a checkered past and has fallen from favor while chardonnay plantings have been on the rise.

The cooling influence of the Atlantic is no small factor, but more than anything there are producers such as Castillo de Monjardin demonstrating with each vintage that chardonnay is the most promising white grape in Navarre's future. The crisp 2007 Castillo de Monjardin Chardonnay ($10, 88 points) is a beautiful example, exhibiting notes of citrus, green apple and orange peel. Monjardin's 2004 Chardonnay Reserve (91 points) isn't imported into the United States, and that's too bad because it's the closest you will come in Spain to a wine that tastes like a premier cru white Burgundy.

Monjardin's 2007 Pinot Noir ($15, 87 points) also is one of the better examples of pinot in the region.

TANDEM

This gleaming new winery is a beacon to pilgrims trekking the Camino de Santiago on the long journey to Santiago de Compostela. Its current lineup of wines flies under the ARS label, and these are mostly red blends built around three grapes — tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon and merlot.

The ARS wines have not quite reached the level of sophistication of the previous wineries mentioned, but their intensity and depth bode well for the future of this promising newcomer to the wine culture of Navarre.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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