Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

As I look back over the winescape of 2009, a crazy thought crosses my mind.

Chardonnay may very well be cool again. I think I'm ahead of the curve on this because the experts, who evaluate wines at the major wine competitions I follow, seemed to have not read the memo. On the one hand, they give Chardonnay a fair shake and award plenty of gold medals. On the other, when Chardonnays face less heralded white wines in the Best of Show voting that comes at the end of each competition, it seems to be Chardonnay smackdown time.

You can almost always bet on the Albarino or Gewurztraminer or Riesling over the very best Chardonnay. I chalk it up to political correctness and figure the pendulum will swing the other way sooner or later.

I'm guessing sooner rather than later because Chardonnay in the New World has come of age. Some months ago I wrote about the new Joseph Phelps venture over on the Sonoma Coast, where the iconic Napa Valley vintner has established Freestone Vineyards to make Burgundian whites and reds. At the time, I lauded the Freestone Chardonnay as a breakthrough wine.

Make no mistake, the Freestone Pinot Noirs are sensational. But the world is lately cluttered with sensational Pinot. Truly exceptional Chardonnay, however, is more difficult to find. My most treasured white wines all come from Burgundy's Cotes de Beaune. There is scarcely any Chardonnay producer in the New World that can touch the likes of Comtes Lafon or Leflaive.

Two that quickly come to mind are New Zealand's Kumeu River and Australia's Leeuwin Estate. California wineries that might be mentioned in the same breath include Sonoma Cutrer and Nickel & Nickel. I would now add Freestone to the short list.

I recently sampled Freestone's 2007 Sonoma Coast Estate Vineyard Chardonnay ($75) and the Freestone Pastorale Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay ($100). You will often hear California winemakers declare their Chardonnays to be Burgundian in style. Few ever are. Not unless you think the smell of buttered popcorn and vanilla is typical of Burgundy, which it isn't.

Without a doubt, the Freestone Pastorale Vineyard Chardonnay is the most amazing California Chardonnay I've ever tasted. The Freestone Sonoma Coast Estate Vineyard Chardonnay isn't far behind. If I closed my eyes, the Pastorale gave me the minerally impression of Meursault; the Sonoma Coast Estate had the bold, full-bodied richness combined with the tremendous acid backbone of Corton Charlemagne.

These are two great wines. I've reviewed the Pastorale this week and will follow next week with the Sonoma Coast Estate. I believe they represent the future of Chardonnay in California. And I would be remiss if I didn't point out that both wines exhibit a restraint at 13.5 percent alcohol that is not very common in California wine today.

It is now accepted wisdom that only the higher alcohol wines nab the huge scores from wine critics.

BEST BUY

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Casillero del Diablo 2008 Carmenere, Rapel Valley, Chile ($11) — If you're planning a tailgate party for the upcoming football playoffs and need an inexpensive but sturdy red to stand up to savory grilled brats and the like, the Carmenere from Casillero del Diablo could be your ticket to a winning post-season. This bargain beauty offers robust flavors of plum and blackberry, with hints of mocha, spice and a gamey backnote. Rating: 84.

TASTING NOTES

Freestone 2007 Pastorale Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast ($100) — My only pause is the price. In today's wine economy, it could be a tough sell. On the other hand, Freestone's Pastorale Vineyard Chardonnay could well be the finest Chardonnay ever produced in California. I would compare it to the greatest Meursault I've ever tasted, with no equivocations. This is not your typical California fruit bomb. The flinty, wet-stone minerality is as big a piece of the puzzle as the intense aromas of lemon creme and baked brioche. It has richness and power supported by fresh, mouthwatering acidity. Though it was barrel fermented, the influence of the oak is subtle and well judged. There are but a handful of California Chardonnay producers who play in this league, and I daresay no one today is performing at a higher level. Rating: 98.

Pommery 1999 Brut Millesime Grand Cru, Champagne, France ($85) — Pommery's vintage Grand Cru combines the house emphasis on elegance and finesse with the richness and power of this particular vintage. The delicate aromatics of citrus fruits and spring flowers are a mere hint of what is to come. On the palate this vintage Pommery, blended from seven separate grand cru vineyards, shows power and depth, with uncommon complexity and a very long finish. An impressive Champagne that will improve over the decade to come. Rating: 94.

Drylands 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($17) — Drylands strikes a middle ground for Kiwi Sauvignon, showing a bit of the grassy character that made the Marlborough region famous, but not enough to offend those who don't embrace this evocative style. There is plenty of ripe citrus/grapefruit nuance behind the grassy facade, and the wine finishes with some length and more than a hint of minerality. Rating: 89.

Kim Crawford 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand ($19) — Kim Crawford has always downplayed the pungent, green notes that characterize many of the most popular New Zealand Sauvignons. His style, and 2009 is no exception, is slightly riper and more full-bodied, offering nuances of tropical fruit, red citrus and gooseberry — with less bite on the back end. The '09 is a lovely example. Rating: 88.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

COPYRIGHT 2009 CREATORS.COM.