Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

Wine industry folk may celebrate the merciful end of this most chaotic year in wine, but the hangover from the crash of 2009 likely will linger for many years to come.

It will be remembered as the year of the consumer, for everything good and bad in the business of wine revolved around the whims of customers battered by recession yet remarkably true to their passion for the grape.

Consumption was up despite the weak economy. That was the silver lining in an otherwise grim year for winegrowers and winemakers. Dollars were down, however, as wine lovers shunned high prices and focused on value.

The resistance to high prices had a domino effect, and soon no one — not even producers of high-quality value wines, such as Bonny Doon — could penetrate the retail market without first offering steep discounts. Half-price became the new norm, especially for wines originally in the $100 range.

The benefits to wine lovers are enormous, even beyond the savings in dollars.

One of my friends, who fancied himself a collector — complete with a large stock of expensive Napa Valley cabernets — suddenly discovered the pleasures of Argentine malbec at less than $20 a bottle.

The truly great wines of Paso Robles — far less expensive than those of northern California but no less good — came as a revelation to many bargain hunters willing to give something new and different a long look.

A few of my colleagues at the Critics Challenge International Wine Competition were utterly amazed back in May, when it turned out they had voted a $25 petite sirah (Clayhouse) from Paso Robles "Wine of the Year." I would wager a few of those who raised their hands for the Clayhouse had never, ever reviewed a petite sirah for publication.

What we saw in 2009 was a return to the way it once was in the wine business, when prices reflected what customers were willing to pay. When I first started buying Bordeaux, in the early 1970s, the price fluctuated wildly with each vintage. In good vintages, prices went up; in poor vintages, they went down.

That ended in the middle of the decade, when prices were advanced each year regardless of conditions on the ground. A poor vintage only meant the annual increase in price wouldn't be as steep.

In recent years, the ever-higher prices for the finest wines from around the world were justified by the cost of production. New wineries, whether in the Napa Valley or Tuscany or Bordeaux, have invested so much to get into the game that their only hope of making a profit is based upon sustained high prices.

They are the ones who suffered the most in 2009, and it's only a matter of time before some collapse from their own weight.

And the ripple effect has been dramatic. Many wineries this year cut back on grape purchases at harvest as old vintages backed up in the warehouse. The ensuing weak demand for grapes caused a plunge in grape prices, which put pressure on growers who've expanded acreage through the recent good years.

For those in the wine industry, it's a mess.

For everyone else, it's a reprieve from the high cost of drinking fine wine.

This was the big story in wine in 2009. And the hangover is one I plan to enjoy.

BEST BUY

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Tangent 2008 Paragon Vineyard Albarino, Edna Valley ($17) — Domestic albarino has been a longtime quest of those who love this now-famous Spanish white grape. A few producers have stepped up to the challenge (albarino requires very specific growing conditions and soils) and now make albarino that compares favorably with the outstanding examples from the Rias Baixas, along Spain's western coast. Tangent exhibits an intense lime-citrus aroma and the trademark minerality of the true albarino — and at a fair price, to boot. This wine is exceptional with raw oysters or steamed clams. Rating: 89.

TASTING NOTES

Freestone 2007 Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast ($75) — As I said of the Freestone Pastorale Vineyard Chardonnay, my only pause is the price. That said, both of these California chardonnays are in a league with grand cru Burgundy and are priced comparably. Freestone's estate chardonnay is a rich, powerful wine along the lines of Burgundy's Corton-Charlemagne. The richness is balanced by riveting acidity, which is uncommon in a California chardonnay. Aromas of ripe pear and tangerine dominate against back notes of citrus and wet stone. This is a truly monumental California chard, but the price probably limits it to a special occasion or trophy wine. Rating: 95 points.

Moet & Chandon Nectar Imperial, Champagne, France ($43) — Here's a novel idea, particularly apt should you have the late seating on New Year's Eve: Rather than one of those blockbuster (and expensive) tetes de cuvee Champagnes to ring in the new year, order a glass (or, better, a bottle) of demi-sec Champagne, and enjoy your toast with either the dessert or cheese course. You will thank me for this suggestion; I promise! Moet & Chandon's Nectar Imperial is an excellent bubbly for this occasion because it's sweet, but not too sweet, making it enjoyable on its own. Nectar Imperial delivers succulent peach and pear aromas, with hints of vanilla and almond, and a creamy texture that's simply yummy. Rating: 91.

Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial, Champagne, France ($39) — It would be difficult to argue that the world's best-selling Champagne is underrated, but I'll give it a go. The current version of Moet's flagship bubbly is a remarkable achievement when volume is taken into consideration. Brut Imperial is available the world over, and no one ever seems to run short, yet quality remains very high. This unique blend of mostly pinot noir and pinot meunier (and only 10 percent chardonnay) is the model of consistency — testimony to the skill of the Moet winemaking team, as well as the generous use of reserve stocks to ensure every new batch of Brut Imperial measures up. This is a harmonious Champagne that exhibits bright apple, citrus and stone fruit aromas, hints of toasty brioche and mature vinous aromas on the back end. The bead is fine and elegant. Overall, it's a classic non-vintage brut at a very fair price by today's standards. Yet it's so ubiquitous that you might not consider it "special." That would be a mistake, for Brut Imperial remains one of Champagne's very finest non-vintage bruts. Rating: 90.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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