Long before the movie "Sideways" made it hip to diss merlot, the wine industry had its own jaundiced view of this red grape variety from Bordeaux.

The Napa Valley's Louis M. Martini winery claims to have been the first American winery to make a varietal merlot, and that was sometime in the 1970s. Until then merlot was largely thought to produce an "incomplete" wine and was used exclusively for blending, typically to "soften" young cabernet sauvignons and make them easier to drink upon release. (Note that a cabernet can contain up to 25 percent of another grape variety and still meet the legal requirement to be called cabernet.)

This was taking the "Bordeaux" philosophy to its extreme. The Bordeaux region historically used numerous red grapes varieties, with varying ripening patterns, to guard against the failure of any one crop. Merlot is the favored second grape, right behind cabernet sauvignon.

What New World vintners sometimes forget, and many consumers don't even realize, is that some districts of the Bordeaux region treat merlot as the primary grape variety; and the most exclusive and expensive Bordeaux, the famed Chateau Petrus, is for all intents and purposes a merlot.

I was given cause to reflect on the conventional merlot wisdom as I plowed through a recent tasting loaded with expensive Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons, most of which I rated highly. What caught my attention, however, was the smattering of merlots I sampled that day.

They were all very good, and three of them were made from Napa Valley grapes. The best of the bunch was the succulent 2004 Truchard from Napa's Carneros district. But the 2005 Chappellet and 2005 Clos du Val also were rock-solid wines that I could easily recommend. What was most striking, besides the quality, was the price.

The cabernets I tasted that day ranged in price from $70 to $140, with a slew in the $90 range. The Truchard Merlot? $28. The Chappellet? $32. The Clos du Val? $26. Given the terribly high price of coveted red wine from the Napa Valley, America's most prominent wine region, the three merlots stood out for value.

Maybe I have "Sideways" to thank for this happy state of affairs. Merlot may not be chic, but when it's good it's really good. And even I can afford it.

BEST BUY

Truchard 2006 Chardonnay, Carneros ($30) — We should all thank our lucky stars that wineries such as Truchard continue to thrive and prosper in the Napa Valley, where $20 or $30 for a bottle of wine is considered chump change. Truchard produces a reliably outstanding product within that range, and it's '06 chardonnay is no exception. This lovely wine draws you into the glass with the aroma of fresh lemon creme, a tell-tale sign of cool-climate chardonnay. On the palate there is a subtle hint of brown spice and vanillin extracted from the well judged use of oak, and a freshness and minerality that is now more common in California Chardonnay. Impeccably balanced and delicious. Rating: 91.

Tasting Notes

Donum 2005 Estate Pinot Noir, Carneros ($65) - The Donum winery was carved out of the Buena Vista holdings when the historic winery was sold a few years back. Clearly the owners got some of Buena Vista's choicest vineyards out of the transaction, and this vintage of Donum Estate Pinot is Exhibit A. It's a deep, powerful pinot that offers up an expressive, complex nose of violets, wild strawberry and black cherry, as well as earthy notes of forest floor and spice. Impressive depth, with firm tannins and nicely judged oak. A wine that will improve over the next several years for those with the patience to cellar it. Rating: 94.

Craggy Range 2007 Te Muna Road Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand ($24) - One of the classiest producers in New Zealand, Craggy Range has made inroads with its red wines despite the outdated impression that Kiwi wines are all sauvignon blanc all of the time. That said, it's sauvignon from the Te Muna Road Vineyard is killer. Not as pungent as the more aggressive sauvignons from the Marlborough region, this one's from Martinborough and offers intense, sweet gooseberry on the nose, hints of dried herbs and fennel, and persistence of flavor through the finish. Exceptionally well balanced. Rating: 91.

Paraduxx 2005, Napa Valley ($48) - I've become less enamored of zinfandel in recent years as the alcohol levels have risen and the bright fruit flavors I once loved have been pushed to their pruney, sappy max. So why do I love the new Paraduxx when it's 60 percent zinfandel? Balance, dear friends, balance. Part of that is the injection of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc, which deliver structure and more complex, earthy aromas to leaven the fresh berry showiness of the zinfandel grape. But most of all this is simply a delicious red blend that offers complex aromas and flavors, a real mix of black and red fruits, firm acid and tannin, a suave mouthfeel, and well judged oak. Rating: 91.

Truchard 2006 Chardonnay, Carneros ($30) - We should all thank our lucky stars that wineries such as Truchard continue to thrive and prosper in the Napa Valley, where $20 or $30 for a bottle of wine is considered chump change. Truchard produces a reliably outstanding product within that range, and it's '06 chardonnay is no exception. This lovely wine draws you into the glass with the aroma of fresh lemon creme, a tell-tale sign of cool-climate chardonnay. On the palate there is a subtle hint of brown spice and vanillin extracted from the well judged use of oak, and a freshness and minerality that is now more common in California chardonnay. Impeccably balanced and delicious. Rating: 91.

Chappellet 2006 Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($29) - Like many Napa Valley chardonnays, this vintage of Chappellet has immediate appeal. It is rich and mouth-filling, with an oily texture that is supported by bold, ripe fruit flavors of pear and baked apple, lifted by bright acidity that gives the wine life and definition. The nose is attractive, expressing aromas of brioche and a bit of caramel/butterscotch nuance that makes me think they must have used really good oak. This one's a real crowd-pleaser that should satisfy those who prefer some fat in their chardonnay and those who crave mouth-watering acidity. It has a bit of both. Rating: 90.

Raymond Vineyards 2007 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($15) - This Napa Valley winery is best known for it's cabernet and chardonnay, causing its lovely sauvignon blanc to be somewhat overlooked. It's certainly not one of the heavyweights of the Valley, but this delicate, floral sauvignon deserves respect for its subtle attributes of white flower, grapefruit and spice that are not only charming but extremely food friendly. Rating: 86.

Taltarni 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Australia ($13) - A lighter style of sauvignon that's more about aromatics than palate weight or mouthfeel. Nevertheless, the flinty nose offers some appeal, as do the notes of anise and melon. If what you have in mind is a pleasant quaffer with a modicum of personality, this will do the trick. Rating: 83.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

COPYRIGHT 2008 CREATORS SYNDICATE INC.