As I rummage through the wine cellar on a sultry summer day it occurs to me this is one way to beat the heat. Then again, most modern homes are built on concrete slabs and don't have a cellar.

No problem. With a little imagination and the right bottle of wine, anyone can enjoy the cooling effect of the cellar even without that hole in the ground. That was my quest as I dug through box after box in search of wines to slake a summer thirst. I stumbled across a couple of pink wines, a rosato from Italy and a rosado from Spain, that took me back several years to a summer lunch at Bastide Saint Antoine, a Michelin-starred restaurant near Grasse, France.

It was a Monday and the shops were closed. It appeared as though all of the village's merchants had convened at Bastide Saint Antoine. There was no air conditioning, so the windows were thrown open in hopes of catching a breeze from the sea.

Most everyone chose to sit outside at tables beneath the dozens of umbrellas scattered across the lawn, which overlooked an impeccably manicured garden. The Mediterranean was visible — or so it seemed — on the horizon. Each table was strewn with bottles of wine. Rose was undoubtedly the order of the day, but there were numerous whites and the occasional light red buried in buckets of ice.

The wines were of a kind, regardless of color. They were crisp and refreshing, aromatic, and lighter in alcohol and tannin than richer, heavier wines such as chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon or syrah.

I was thinking of this as my dig through the boxes unearthed other wines that fit the mold. A light, low-alcohol white from the Penedes region in northeastern Spain. An eclectic white blend from Sicily, where beating the summer heat is a way of life. Several exemplary examples of sauvignon blanc from California. A mouthwatering Albarino from Spain.

It occurred to me then that summer is still with us, and will be through the end of September. I saw it as my mission to identify those wines that would best help me endure the steamy days ahead, before an autumn chill settles over the land.

You might say mission accomplished. This week's tasting notes are dedicated to that proposition.

BEST BUY

Windsor Sonoma 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley ($16) — Winemaker Marco DiGiulio has proven his mettle with crisp, aromatic whites, notably at Girard and Pepi, before that winery drifted from its earliest mission and became a mass-production supermarket brand. This latest addition to the DiGiulio portfolio is thanks largely to the acquisition of Windsor Vineyards by Pat Roney, who also owns Girard. The label and the wines have undergone a makeover, and this Russian River Valley sauvignon is classic DiGuilio — multi-faceted and well balanced; crisp and refreshing, yet with the complexity and depth to handle sophisticated cuisine. The dominant fruit flavor is white peach, though pungent citrus notes are more than just background noise, and there is the mouthwatering acidity that is so essential to delicious sauvignon. Rating: 90.

TASTING NOTES

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Sauvignon Republic 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley ($18) — Stylistically I find Sauvignon Republic's expression of the sauvignon blanc grape similar regardless of terroir. They all tend to be sourced from cool climates that deliver pungent aromas of grapefruit and yellow citrus, a hint of herbal greenness, and a whetstone minerality that is most appealing when I'm sitting down to a plate of earthy oysters on the half shell. The '07 from the cool Russian River Valley is in this mold and it's a delight, even as an aperitif. It's fresh and clean, with excellent persistence of flavor, and crisp acidity. Rating: 92.

Merryvale 2007 "Starmont" Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($18) - Merryvale's "Starmont" line of wines is meant to be lighter and easier than the more serious, grown-up Merryvale wines. But in some cases I actually prefer the Starmont because the wines are not as heavily oaked or manipulated and, Merryvale being Merryvale, the grape-sourcing is clearly at a high level. The '07 is a great example. It lures you into the glass with an inviting floral note, followed by juicy white peach and hints of tangy citrus. For the price it's clearly one of the finest sauvignons in the valley, and worthy of grownup status. Rating: 91.

Planeta 2007 Rose, Italy ($18) - This is the first vintage of rose from Sicily's Planeta clan, and I'm happy to report they nailed it on the first attempt. This is a pale, onion-skin rose made from 100 percent Syrah grown on their estate in Sambuca di Sicilia. It has an earthy quality, resplendent with familiar scents from the root cellar, and the aroma of wild strawberry. Serve this beauty of a rose with savory tapas or grilled fish. Rating: 91.

Fillaboa 2007 Albarino, Spain ($19) — One of the great attributes of Albarino is its remarkable complexity given the fact that it seldom achieves a high degree of ripeness, alcohol levels are consistently modest and there is never (or seldom) any wood component to spice up the finished product. Fillaboa's '07 shows generous flesh in a wine that is weighty by Albarino standards — round, plump and delicious. Lovely aromas of stone fruit and citrus dominate, but there's even a slightly tropical note that is unusual for this sometimes austere (in very cold years) grape variety from the coastal Rias Baixas district in the Spanish province of Galicia. Rating: 90.

Planeta 2006 "La Segreta" Bianco, Italy ($16) - You have to love it when you can find creativity and genius in a wine that retails for well under $20 a bottle. Genius because the conventional wisdom would have counseled against planting chardonnay in Sicily before the Planetas made it fashionable by doing it so well. And creative because La Segreta is a blend of cultures, utilizing the native Italian varieties Grecanico and Fiano with chardonnay and viognier to craft a beautifully balanced, multi-layered white that delivers heady floral aromas, succulent stone fruits and fresh citrus nuances. Quite the exotic blend, and delicious, too! Rating: 88.

Torres 2007 Sangre de Toro Vina Sol, Spain ($10) — About as pleasant a white for summer sipping as you will find, the Sangre de Toro Vina Sol is 100 percent Parellada, a fruit-forward grape from the Penedes region that shows excellent fruit intensity even at a lower level of alcohol. The '07 is listed at 11.5 percent alcohol, which is rare these days. There is a gentle herbal note of anise, an appealing summer scent that defines this wine. Well balanced and smooth, Vina Sol is a picnic wine with character, also very rare. Rating: 86.

Torres 2007 Sangre de Toro de Casta, Spain ($10) — The Torres Sangre de Toro de Casta (rose) takes on a decidedly fruity expression (as opposed to earthier, less colorful rose) that's all about fresh, ripe strawberries and raspberries. Grapes used are Garnacha Tinta and Carinena. That impression of sweetness is simply bright, intense, red-fruited flavor that will pair nicely with spicy tapas or fried nibbles. I also like the fact that, at 13 percent, it's low in alcohol by today's standards. Rating: 85.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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