This is a tale of two wineries. The first is Rodney Strong, long a bastion of well-balanced value wines from Sonoma County. The second is Silver Oak Cellars, a cabernet sauvignon specialist located in the Napa Valley, and an icon long before that term slipped into everyday use around the Napa Valley.

I've had interesting contacts with each in recent days, and I'll let you decide which of the two impressed me and which caused my jaw to drop.

First, Rodney Strong. Its public relations man, Robert Larsen, emailed to ask if I would like to taste the winery's new Rockaway Vineyard cabernet. There was a time when I would have been all over it. But I hesitated.

I remembered a conversation with winemaker Rick Sayre some months ago, and his reaction when I complimented him on the balance Rodney Strong wines had exhibited over the many vintages I had been tasting them. The anguished look on his face told me all I needed to know.

Sayre had come onto my radio show to tell me all about Rodney Strong's "winery within a winery." From his expression, I knew what was coming next. The winery within a winery concept had been developed to produce wines with more concentration and power. And, yes, higher levels of alcohol.

I reminded Larsen of that conversation when I declined a sample of the Rockaway cabernet, explaining that I doubted it would be a wine I would find commendable. But to be fair, I asked about the alcohol level. After all, I could have misread the reaction on Sayre's face when we had been discussing balance.

The answer was 15.4 percent. You've got it. A Sonoma County red table wine, a cabernet sauvignon meant to be served with a meal, at 15.4 percent alcohol. And that's only what's stated on the label. The rules allow a generous fudge factor, so in reality this wine could be close to 16 percent alcohol and still list 15.4. There is nothing balanced about a wine such as this, no matter what the folks at the winery might say.

So the question is why? Why would Rodney Strong jump on the high alcohol bandwagon at this stage of the game, when the pendulum appears to be swinging back toward wines of finesse rather than wines of power?

The obvious answer is ratings. The perceived wisdom of California winemakers is that Jim Laube, the chief reviewer for the wine magazine The Wine Spectator, favors opulent, powerful, high-alcohol wines in his ratings. Larsen denies this was the motive, but I'm of the opinion I'm right and he's spinning the company line.

Now we pivot across the Mayacamas Mountains to the Napa Valley, and Silver Oak Cellars. Shortly after my e-mail exchange with Rodney Strong's Larsen, I stopped by Silver Oak to see the new winery, rebuilt following a devastating fire in 2006.

This will be short and sweet. I sat down to taste with winemaker Daniel Baron and we went through three vintages of Silver Oak's Alexander Valley and Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons. Included was the exquisite 2004 vintage, the latest release, and both wines from this very good year were impressive.

Each had wonderful aromatics, excellent weight and depth on the palate, silky tannin, and exceptional persistence of flavor, with a lingering finish. It's no wonder hundreds of devoted wine enthusiasts descend upon the winery each year for the cultish "New Release" event.

Baron formed much of his winemaking philosophy while working in Bordeaux at chateaux such as Petrus and Canon-La-Gaffeliere. He understands grapes can be perfectly ripe at sugar levels that won't produce massive amounts of alcohol. His ideas dovetailed nicely with those of the late Justin Meyer, the founding winemaker at Silver Oak.

So you won't be surprised that Silver Oak's 2004 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon comes in at a modest 13 percent alcohol. The 2004 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon registers 13.9. These are majestic wines that are beautiful with food, or even on their own.

Why does Silver Oak do it? Well, my guess is the powers that be know great wine when they make it. And they're not terribly worried about their Wine Spectator score.

BEST BUY

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Louis Martini 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($25) — Among the handful of Napa Cabernets you might find in this price range, Martini's is no doubt the finest. Or at least near the top in this category. Lush red currant and cherry aromas dominate, supported by firm tannins and rounded out with notes of spice and wood. Rating

: 88.

TASTING NOTES

Grgich Hills 2006 Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($42) — Classic cool climate flavors of lemon custard and pear, with a strong wood note and hints of vanillin and spice. Grgich chardonnays always have bright acidity as an underpinning to the fruit, and this vintage is no exception — it should be long-lived and deliver ever more interesting complexities for years to come. Rating: 93.

St. Pauls 2006 Sauvignon, Italy ($35) — Sauvignon from Italy is a rare sighting in the U.S., except in a few high-end Italian restaurants. It's not that they aren't good, but generally importers focus on pinot grigio from Alto Adige and Friuli, the two areas most accomplished with sauvignon. So the importer gets kudos for daring to market a sauvignon from Alto Adige, which is a very good example of the style and quality that's possible in this part of the world. The nose is intensely floral and the palate is dominated by luscious, ripe stone fruits, buttressed by fresh acidity. An absolutely delicious sauvignon and a tremendous example of what Italy can do with this grape variety. Rating: 91.

Flora Springs 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($36) — So typical of Flora Springs cabernet, the 2005 is a wine that exhibits fruit intensity with exceptional balance. Lovely red-fruited aromas dominate, supported by supple tannins and firm acidity. This has to be one of the most attractive cabernets in Napa Valley for less than $40. Drink now or lay down in the cellar for a decade or more. Rating: 90.

Moziese 2006 Nero d'Avola, ($20) — It's easy to see why this voluptuous Nero d'Avola claimed gold medals last year at both the San Francisco and Los Angeles International wine competitions. There's just a whole lot of stuff going on! Lovely aromas of blackberry, plum and spice, with firm acidity and a floral perfume that brings to mind fresh violets. It's exotic and delicious, somewhat rustic, and a tremendous value at the price. Rating: 90.

Cornarea 2007 Roero Arneis, Italy ($28) — Should you be a chardonnay lover but be in the mood for something slightly different, yet with the weight and substance of chardonnay, Cornarea's Arneis could be the clever option. It shows notes of white flower and honey on the nose, but is dry and mineral-driven on the palate, with a richness in mid-palate that is subtle and beguiling, leading to a clean, crisp finish that bodes well for its usefulness with fish and other savory seafood. Extremely complex in a sneaky sort of way. Rating: 90.

Fortitude 2007 Semillon, Luvisi Family Vineyard, Napa Valley ($18) — If you're looking for something interesting but different, Fortitude's Napa Valley Semillon is a winner on both counts. The flavor profile trends toward ripe fig and baked apple, with an underlying note of citrus and dried herbs. It's nicely balanced and exhibits good persistence of flavor on the palate. Nicely done. Rating: 90.

Rancho Zabaco 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Reserve, Russian River Valley ($18) — An excellent example of a sauvignon that straddles the fence between the characteristics of pungency found in the vaunted New Zealand style and roundness most often associated with white Bordeaux. The initial impression of red citrus and dried herbs on the upfront palate gives way to generously rounded stone fruits and spice. Rating: 89.

Tangent 2007 Pinot Blanc, Arroyo Grande Valley ($17) — Well balanced and clean, with fresh aromas of pear and tangerine, and a hint of anise on the finish. The absence of oak allows the fruit to shine. With medium body and weight, this is a perfect white for quaffing or with light appetizers or simple olive oil-based pasta dishes. Rating: 88.

Robert Oatley 2007 Shiraz, Australia ($20) — Notes of blueberry and spice dominate this Rhone-style (13.5 percent alcohol) syrah from Oatley's estate vineyards in Mudgee. This restrained style is unusual for Aussie shiraz, and it works in this case. The wine has sufficient weight on the palate, but more telling is the length in the mouth and interesting complexities of dried herbs, licorice, minerality and earth. Rating: 88.

Grooner 2006 Gruner Veltliner, Austria ($11) — Notes of green apple and lime, with a thread of minerality and firm acidity. Some tropical flavors emerge with exposure to air in the glass. A good everyday quaffing Gruner and exceptional for the price. Rating: 84.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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