Monday, December 01, 2008 | 8:04 a.m.

Wine Talk by Robert Whitley

Home > Lifestyle Columns > Wine Talk
Please contact your local newspaper editor if you want to read Wine Talk's column in your hometown paper.
Robert Whitley

Recently

  • Sonoma Vintner Bottling New California Trend
    I believe I have seen the future of California wine, though the glimpse was fleeting and the proof, of course, will only be revealed over time. I am talking about the "Burgundian" project — Freestone Vineyards — that is now …

  • Comfort Foods Call for Comfort Wines on Thanksgiving Day
    Right about now my e-mail inbox is overflowing with questions about which wine with which dish this Thanksgiving. Obviously ‘tis the season to worry about the things that are really important! From year to year, Thanksgiving to Thanksgiving, I am …

  • Readers Fume Over Alcohol Content
    Since my most recent lament over the alarming rise in the alcohol levels of highly rated wines, several readers have written to suggest I publish alcohol levels alongside wine reviews. I have given this idea serious consideration, but at this time I …

  • The Quality of a Wine Is in the Eye of the Beholder
    It has recently come to the attention of some very astute readers that wine critics often disagree. Imagine that! What raised a few eyebrows was the Wine Spectator's low-ball score on the 2005 Nickel & Nickel Stelling Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.…

Preparation Makes Any Wine More Enjoyable

Whether you've spent $8 or $80 on a bottle of wine, you undoubtedly have high hopes for the tasting experience. There is no doubt you can score a delicious wine at either price point, but merely choosing the right wine does not guarantee you will wring every drop of pleasure from the wine of your desire.

Maximizing the potential of any wine, no matter how expensive or what the rating might be, requires some thought and a little attention to detail. Think of it this way. You can buy a delicious heirloom tomato at the farmer's market and serve it unadorned and have a wonderful taste sensation. Or you can sprinkle it with a dash of salt, drizzle a few drops of aged balsamic, dress it with a sprig of fresh basil and take that already tasty tomato to another level.

So it is with wine. Enhancing the experience and getting the most for your money from any bottle of wine is easy as 1-2-3. My humble suggestions:

1. Use a good wine glass. If you're going to make the effort to serve an interesting wine, do yourself a favor and use a glass that will enhance the aroma, flavor and texture. The glass should have a thin rim and a bowl that's large enough for you to swirl the wine (which allows the wine to breathe and brings out aroma) without splashing. Some experts believe that white and red wines should be served in different-sized glasses (usually a much larger shape for reds) but utility and storage limitations may dictate a one-size-fits-all approach. In that case, I would recommend a 15-ounce stem with a wide body and narrow mouth. Stemware can be expensive, but that doesn't have to be the case. Riedel and Spiegelau, two of the most well-known manufacturers, produce functional stemware that's durable enough for the dishwasher and modestly priced.

2. Always decant. I know, decanting appears to be a stuffy ritual, but the reality is decanting is easy and practical. Easy because you can decant into any glass container large enough to hold a 750ml bottle of wine, plus a bit of room for the wine to breathe. Practical because air brings out the fullest expression of aroma in any wine, red or white. Ever notice that a wine seems to taste better once you've already downed more than half the bottle? It's the air that has softened those harsh tannins and sweetened up the fruit! As for the type of decanter, they come in all sorts of shapes over a range of prices. My wife purchased an attractive but simple Riedel decanter at Target last Christmas. I use it almost every day!

3. Season your glassware. Most of us take our clean stemware out of a cabinet and immediately serve wine in the un-rinsed glass, which may have picked up aromas from the kitchen or even particles of dust. Some of us might be sensitive to that possibility and rinse with tap water before serving, but mixing water and wine doesn't always achieve the optimum result. A little trick I learned on my travels to Italy is both ingenious and a bit of fun. I season the glasses with the wine I'm about to serve. Let's say you have glasses out for four people. Pour a small amount of wine into the first glass and swirl until the inside of the bowl is thoroughly coated. Then pour that wine into the next glass and repeat the process. Then on to the third glass and the fourth. Dump the leftover wine from the glass into a dump bucket or down the sink. You can season a decanter in the same manner.

BEST BUYS

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Swanson 2007 Pinot Grigio, Napa Valley ($21) — Swanson's grigio comes as close as any domestic to a classic Italian pinot grigio. Classic in the vein of top-notch grigio from northern Italy's Friuli and Alto Adige regions. What impresses is the intensity of the lime blossom aroma and the persistence of flavor on the palate. What's different is the absence of suave texture many of the best Italian grigios possess. Still, it's a good drink even if it's a bit pricey for a Cal-Ital interpretation of this popular Italian grape. Rating: 89.

Vina Robles 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles ($19) — Forward and supple, this latest vintage of cabernet from Vina Robles is typical of Paso, showing lovely, soft red fruit and an attractive floral characteristic that is nothing if not alluring.
Cabernets of this ilk from Paso have an uncanny ability to age despite the appearance they are built for the short haul. That said, it's yummy now and good to go as soon as you might be moved to open it. Rating: 88.

TASTING NOTES

Iron Horse 2006 Pinot Noir, Green Valley ($40) — A pinot noir that offers elegance and subtlety rather than power, the '06 Iron Horse is more Burgundy than California, though the bright strawberry, red raspberry and floral aromas speak to California sunshine. The stated alcohol comes in above 14 percent, but the wine is neither heavy nor hot. It's a lovely expression of cool-climate pinot that will deliver pleasure for years to come, despite its lack of concentration and weight. Rating: 91.

Iron Horse 2006 Chardonnay "Rued Clone", Green Valley ($45) — Iron Horse's Rued Clone Chardonnay will remind many Francophiles of Chablis. For one thing, the alcohol, below 14 percent, is lower than most California chardonnays and the combination of crisp green-apple flavor and flinty minerality are after the Chablis fashion, though this wine is obviously wooded, unlike most Chablis. The oak is admirably restrained, however, and this is a wine clearly made to excel with food. What's more, it will improve with age. Rating: 91.

Clos Pegase 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($38) — Although this Clos Pegase cabernet comes across a bit hot, for the money it is a good value in Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon. The bouquet is loaded with ripe cassis and blackberry aromas, with a hint of root cellar earthiness and spice. On the palate it is rich and viscous, and though it is slightly sweet to my taste it doesn't come off jammy or raisined. For those who like ripe Napa cabs, know you don't have to spend $125 to get one. Rating: 88.

William Fevre 2007 Chablis "Champs Royaux" ($25) — Fresh and well balanced, this is a Chablis that exhibits a slightly tart lime citrus burst of fruit on the front of the palate, followed by lovely notes of pippin apple and minerals. It's not terribly complex, but lovely and appealing nonetheless and certainly a good accompaniment to grilled fish and steamed shellfish. Rating: 88.

Franciscan 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($17) — More delicate than many Napa Valley sauvignons, Franciscan's latest release of this wine nevertheless delivers exceptional aromas of peach and white flowers with a mild citrus back note. The flavors carry the length of the palate and finish cleanly. Perfect as an Indian summer quaffer or with savory appetizers. Rating: 87.

Robert Pecota 2007 Sauvignon Blanc "L'Artiste", Napa Valley ($16) — On the lighter side, this sauvignon from Robert Pecota stresses the citrus aspect of the sauvignon blanc grape. With hints of crisp apple and a flinty minerality, it is a departure from the fuller, rounder Bordeaux-style of sauvignon that is currently in vogue in the Napa Valley. This one's well balanced and clean, a refreshing beverage for a lift at the end of the workday. Rating: 87.

Joseph Drouhin 2006 Chorey-les-Beaune, France ($24) — Young and lean, this vintage of Drouhin Chorey-les-Beaune has every right to improve as it gains flesh and suppleness with age. At this stage its most endearing quality is a fresh, red-fruited bouquet. There are notes of forest floor and spice as well, and good balance between fruit and acid, though slightly hard tannins mute the fruit and abbreviate the finish. Overall, however, a very good "village" Burgundy that is well worth the modest price. Rating: 85.

Joseph Drouhin 2007 Bourgogne Chardonnay "Laforet", France ($12) — Clean and refreshing, Drouhin's Bourgogne blanc has to be one of the best values in white Burgundy. This is a simple but thoroughly enjoyable chardonnay that's a bit on the lean side, especially the tart green apple aspect that dominates. There is the merest hint of wood on the backend, but not enough to interfere with your enjoyment of this wine with freshly shucked oysters or steamed mussels. Rating: 83.

Joseph Drouhin 2006 Bourgogne Pinot Noir "Laforet", France ($16) — With pretty strawberry and red cherry aromas to draw you into the glass, this vintage of Drouhin's Laforet starts off on the right foot but ultimately disappoints with its lack of weight and depth, and slightly bitter green tannins. Turbocharged Bourgogne from recent vintages that were riper and sexier have perhaps spoiled us. Nothing wrong with this wine. It's more the rule than the exception for Borgogne rouge. Rating: 81.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

COPYRIGHT 2008 CREATORS SYNDICATE, INC.




AddThis Social Bookmark Button RSS Get RSS Feed for Robert Whitley Email updates Email me Robert Whitley updates Comments Comments
Originally Published on Tuesday September 02, 2008

Editors Picks - Lifestyle Columns
First Pup
Matthew Margolis
A Bailout of Hope
William Moyers
Realtors Give Their Vote to High-Tech Marketing
Jim Woodard
See All
More Robert Whitley
Nov. `08
Su Mo Tu We Th Fr Sa
26 27 28 29 30 31 1
2 3 4 5 6 7 8
9 10 11 12 13 14 15
16 17 18 19 20 21 22
23 24 25 26 27 28 29
30 1 2 3 4 5 6
View By Month
About the author Print friendly format Write the author Email This Article to a friend
All newspaper editors want to know what their readers like. If you would like to read this feature in your local newspaper, please do not hesitate to share your enthusiasm with your local newspaper editor.

 

Shop Creators Syndicate

 
Monday, December 01, 2008 | 8:04 a.m.
About Creators | Privacy Policy | Contact Us | Editor's login | FAQ | En Español
Copyright © 2006 Creators.com. All Rights Reserved.
Web Development by JJCO