Count Francesco Marone Cinzano was president of the consortium of producers of Brunello di Montalcino when the scandal broke earlier this year. Brunello from several producers had been impounded by the magistrate of Italy's province of Siena, who was investigating the possibility that wines that had been bottled and labeled brunello were in fact a blend of grapes other than the required sangiovese from classified brunello vineyards.

From the early reports it appeared as though the investigation would be contained to a few producers who may have bent the rules and jazzed up the 2003 vintage with a splash of Merlot or Syrah. One of the accused, Antinori, was found blameless in quick fashion, following technical analysis of its highly regarded Pian delle Vigne Brunello.

But the investigation drags on and Cinzano, owner of the prestigious Col d'Orcia winery, now fears even greater damage to the reputation of the brunello name.

"What you have seen in the press reports so far is just the tip of the iceberg," he said recently over lunch. "It is now more than 90 producers that are being scrutinized. The investigator is not looking for someone who may have used a little bit of merlot to round out the tannins; but real fraud."

What troubles Cinzano most is that over the course of the investigation there has been an idea floated to alter the accepted parameters of brunello to allow other grape varieties, particularly in off vintages. There also has been an assault on the proscribed vinification techniques to allow for production of a more modern, internationally styled wine — as producers have done in the Chianti Classico region.

Cinzano and a core of traditionalists, including the most important producer in the region, the legendary Franco Biondi-Santi, have banded together to assert the proposition that brunello possesses unique aromas and flavors (and structure) precisely because it is 100 percent sangiovese grown only in vineyards that have been classified for the production of brunello.

"Brunello is like no other wine," said Cinzano. "It is not always easy to understand, especially when it is young. The tannins are strong and the acid is high. But this is what gives it longevity. You judge the greatness of a wine by how long it will live.

"I feel we have a strong coalition of producers who have now reaffirmed the promise of brunello, that it should be made 100 percent from the sangiovese grape."

Why this matters strikes at the very heart of the wine business. Consumers deserve a label that accurately reflects the product in the bottle. No one knows how the ongoing investigation will turn out, but something good could result regardless of what the magistrate finds.

None other than Angelo Gaja, the renowned winemaker from the Italian region of Piedmont who owns a small winery in Montalcino, has proposed a solution for those who wish to make modern brunello using international grapes in a blend with sangiovese.

"Angelo calls it Montalcino DOP," said Cinzano. "The D is for domain, the O is for origin, but don't ask me what the P stands for. The point is this would clearly be a top wine from Montalcino, but it would not be a brunello. Brunello would remain as it is, 100 percent Sangiovese."

Avid wine collectors might be heartened by such a compromise, for it would protect the identity of brunello, which is one of the two most collectible red wines of Italy (barolo is the other). The big winners, however, would be the everyday consumer.

Removing any incentive to bend the rules of brunello will go a long way toward restoring the integrity of the name as well as confidence in the accuracy of the label.

After all, a top brunello will set you back anywhere from $50 to $75 per bottle — more in a restaurant. Wouldn't you like to believe you're getting what you pay for? Count Cinzano thinks you would.

BEST BUY

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because they represent outstanding quality or value.

Simi 2007 "Roseto", Sonoma County ($15) — Winemaker Steve Reeder is talented and artful, crafting wines at Simi (and before that at Chateau St. Jean) that are above all drinkable. His Roseto is but one example. This dry rose is made from Syrah with a splash of viognier, which adds a floral nuance and hints of stone fruits on the nose. On the palate the red fruits are dominant, particularly strawberry and raspberry, but there is an underlying earthiness and spiciness that make this wine especially appealing with grilled sausages and fowl. Rating: 90.

TASTING NOTES

Domaine Laroche 2005 Chablis Premier Cru "Les Vaudevey" 2005 ($42) — Over the years I've slavishly embraced a number of the great white Burgundies of the Cotes de Beaune, all but ignoring Chablis. My bad! For these are some of the most wondrous wines of the entire region — and a bargain to boot when stacked up against the likes of Leflaive and Lafon. Domaine Laroche's '05 Les Vaudevey is a scintillating reminder that Chablis can be stunning in its own right. This vintage of Les Vaudevey delivers a flinty minerality that is pure Chablis, yet with a richness of aroma — brioche and a whiff of butterscotch — that is nothing if not a harbinger of things to come. With vibrant acidity, crisp pear and citrus fruit, and exceptional balance, this still-tight premier cru Chablis holds the promise of a brilliant evolution. Rating: 94.

Kuleto Estate 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($60) — The eastern side of the Napa Valley, where Kuleto Estate's vineyards rise to elevations approaching 1,500 feet, is about as good as terroir gets for cabernet sauvignon in California. The days are long, catching the afternoon sun, and the vineyards tend to be well clear of the fog that sometimes hangs heavy over the valley floor. This makes for voluptuous, dense, sensuous cabernet. Kuleto's '04 is that in spades: a full-bodied, mouth-filling blockbuster that's rich in black-fruited aroma, hints of mocha and a sweet, lingering finish that is lip-smackingly delicious. Rating: 94.

Trefethen 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Oak Knoll District ($50) — In this cooler part of the Napa Valley, cabernet aromas and flavors trend toward the red fruits, such as currant and plum. Trefethen has always exhibited that profile and the '05 is true to form, including the trademark balance that bucks the current fashion in Napa cabernet. This vintage shows excellent fruit definition, well-measured oak and a spicy, floral finish that is both clean and inviting. Rating: 91.

To find out more about Robert Whitley and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

COPYRIGHT 2008 CREATORS SYNDICATE, INC.