Travel and Adventure by Various Travel Authors

By Beverly Mann

Where do the locals, or portenos, of Buenos Aires go to escape the endless energy in the streets, restaurants, and tango bars, bustling until the wee hours of morning? A 50-minute train ride from the big city, Tigre presents the perfect respite.

Built around the tranquil Paran‡ Delta, formed by the confluence of more than 100 rivers and canals flowing into the Rio de la Plata, Tigre is the summer vacation getaway for residents of Buenos Aires. Known for its rowing clubs and regattas, this architectural jewel is adorned with villas and mansions built on a labyrinth of lush islands carved by the serpentine rivers.

Embraced by weeping willows draping the coastline and seawalls, the homes are all built on large stilts to protect against high tide, and all of these residences have names for their address, similar to boats.

Long before the Spanish came to the shores of Rio de Plata in the 16th century, markings of the Guarani Indian tribes were discovered. Juan de Garay, founder of Buenos Aires, originally named the area that is now Tigre Las Conchas because of the hundreds of shells or water conchs found along the riverbed. The land was mainly used for wheat production, but wood and fruit eventually became the main resources. Years later the area was renamed by the European settlers after the yaguaretes (a Guaran' word for jaguar or tiger).

The town thrived when aristocratic Argentinean families flocked here in the mid-1800s, along with an influx of immigrants from such countries as Spain, Portugal, France and Italy. Especially during the yellow fever epidemic in Buenos Aires in 1871, Las Conchas served as a shelter for the rich who built mansions during this time that eventually became summer residences when they moved back to Buenos Aires. It was with the advent of the electric train in 1916 that city tourism flourished. Today the population is more than 300,000.

The best introduction to present-day Tigre and its rich history was on an hour-long boat ride with Sturla Empresa de Navaigacion circumventing the scenic Sarmiento, Tigre and Lujan Rivers. While our guide talked about the town's present and past, we glanced at the stately homes, saw residents relaxing on their high piers and locals preparing their rowboats for an afternoon sojourn. Also along the waterway were several grocery boats, the neighborhood's floating supermarket.

The Reconquista, Tigre and Lujan are the main rivers traversing the land where the city's activities prevail and where many of the water taxis and ferries pass to transport people to their homes and other destinations.

Along the Tigre River, I spotted several of the lavish rowing clubs. Once Argentina's Buenos Aires Rowing Club was created here, with English and porteno crews, the city was teaming with regattas and clubs representing almost every nationality — including Swiss, Italian, Spanish, German, French and English. Many an Olympian has touched these waters.

The most startling vista, with its prominent Doric columns and dramatic archways, the Tigre Art Museum (Museo de Arte Tigre) is an architectural blend of many European styles. Formerly the Tigre Club, founded in 1910, and then the first casino in the country, this captivating site was declared a historical landmark in 1979 and in 2006 became a museum.

Later during a walk along the Lujan River, I visited the museum to view the 19th and 20th century figurative art, along with a special exhibit of a full-size room mural of Mexican painter David Sigueiros.

I also viewed the exposition of Les Luthiers, a comical Peruvian musical group with a Chaplinesque and Buster Keaton edge. The group's innovative collection of handmade instruments was also on display.

Located on Lavalle Street along the Tigre River, the world's only Mate Museum was a surprising find. A seven-minute film presented an excellent review of the history, production and medicinal factors of the Argentineans' most popular custom.

According to Director Jorge R. Diaz, "The museum has taken 40 years to complete. We have more than 2,000 artifacts, and every day more come in."

Diaz showed me the first thermos flask and the smallest mates in the world ("mate" means both the cup and the drink, which tastes very much like green tea), along with the various metal and porcelain straws made by German and Dutch settlers who came at the end of the 19th century. These settlers brought the ancient Guarani Indian mate ritual back to Europe. The Germans also successfully built mate plantations in Tigre.

On exhibit were instruments from around the globe made from squash and pumpkin skins and cows' paws, the same substances that comprise the mate holders. At the end of my visit, I sampled the proper way to drink the soothing mate, and Diaz provided a piece of sweet mate cake to accompany my drink.

Just across the river, not far from the expansive green Parque de la Costa (an amusement park), sits the popular Fruit and Crafts Market, where artisans set up stalls to sell everything from furniture to food.

The most pleasant part of my day in Tigre was a walk along Paseo Victoria on the right shore of the Rio Lujan between the Tigre and Reconquista Rivers, past the National Navy Museum and string of rowing clubs and restaurants. Families were picknicking, locals rode their bikes and couples strolled hand-in-hand under the tree-lined boardwalk. On the river water taxis and local boats eased their way along this tranquil setting, while strolling guitarists added sweet sounds to this already picture-perfect scene.

As my train pulled into Retiro Station in Buenos Aires and I felt the energy escalate as crowds of people filled the streets, I had a new appreciation for why the town of Tigre is such a refreshing bucolic escape for both locals and visitors alike.

IF YOU GO

For further information, contact:

The Agencia de Desarrollo Turistico de Tigre, www.vivitigre.gov.ar

Sturla Empresa de Navegacion, www.sturlaviajes.com.ar

Museo de Arte Tigre, www.tigre.gov.ar

Museo del Mate, www.elmuseodelmate.com.ar

Beverly Mann is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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