The New Way to Machu Picchu by Various Travel Authors on Creators.com

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The New Way to Machu Picchu

I admit, I have a "bucket list," and Peru's Machu Picchu is on it. This past spring, while researching a trip to the famed ruins, I learned that for decades there seemed to be two ways to experience the Inca treasure. The first required a four-hour train trip from Cusco to the tourist town of Aguas Calientes, followed by a 25-minute bus ride to the ruin's base. The second option required a four-day hike along the classic Inca Trail, camping each night in the elements. However, upon further research, I discovered a recent third choice.

This option requires six days of strenuous hiking along the far less-traveled, but still awe-inspiring, Salkantay Trail, and instead of falling into a tent each night you spend the evenings luxuriating in rustic, yet upscale, lodges recently constructed along the trail.

For my Machu Picchu trip I chose option three and signed on with Mountain Lodges of Peru.

THE TRAVELERS

Our group of 12, all Americans save for Steve and Nikki from England, came to Peru as experienced travelers and in good physical condition for the trip. We were led by Fernando Silva, a 36-year-old Peruvian guide for 15 years who worked his way up through the ranks from assistant cook to cook to assistant guide to guide. He holds a college degree in history plus flora and fauna, and by weeks end became my favorite guide in more than 20 years of traveling. "Fernando was interesting, attentive, and even understood Dan's sarcasm," said Karen Collier, who with her husband, Tom, owns an advertising business in Wisconsin.

THE LODGES

The four lodges — Salkantay, Wayra, Colpa and Lucma — were the brainchild of Enrique Umbert Sr., a 59-year-old Peruvian commodities trader who in 2002 had a vision of creating trekking routes where hikers could experience the outdoors by day then spend the nights in comfortable accommodations. Along the Salkantay Trail, each of the lodges were constructed in only 10 months with the two interior locations, Wayra and Colpa, requiring an estimated 7,500 mule trips to transport the majority of the building supplies. And what the mules couldn't carry went onto the backs of local Andean men. In addition, with the exception of Salkantay, all lodges accommodate up to 12 guests in six bedrooms so groups have each lodge to themselves. "When you tell people you are going on a strenuous hiking trip, they think tents or hovels ... instead we had beautiful and spacious rooms, comfortable gathering areas, and all the comforts of home handled by a great Peruvian staff," said Karen.

IT'S THE ELEVATION, STUPID

The hiking isn't the difficult part of traversing the Salkantay Trail. It's the elevation. "I was surprised that I didn't have a heart attack on some of those climbs," said Pat Aiken. She and her husband, Doug Aiken, are retired and live in Santa Barbara, Calif., but they travel the world where Pat takes wonderful photographs. The first lodge, Salkantay, sits at an elevation of 12,500 feet or almost 2 1/2 miles above sea level. The second, Wayra, is 100 feet higher. Plus there's a 15,253-foot pass to negotiate between the two. And except for the last day, you spend all of your time above 9,000 feet. No wonder Mountain Lodges of Peru advises arriving in Cusco, 11,000 feet above sea level, at least two days early to get acclimated.

THE HIKE

The lures of the Salkantay Trail are twofold: the trail's remoteness and the incredible scenery that unfolds over the 32-mile route. The 500 travelers each day that hike the Inca Trail were about 475 more than we saw during our entire weeklong trek on the Salkantay. And the rewards along the way were spectacular: The first day's hike that culminated at the half-mile-wide Soraypampa Valley, with the snowcapped twin peaks of Humantay, elev.

19,412' feet, and Salkantay, elev. 20,574 feet, standing guard; Humantay Lake and its sister lake butted up against a wall of rock and ice; the dozens of hummingbirds and exotic flowers that populated a cloud forest on Day 4; the backside view of Machu Picchu from across the deep chasm of the Urubamba Valley; and then, of course, exploring Machu Picchu itself.

The trails were well maintained and easy on the feet. Because horses and mules transported our luggage between lodges, we only needed to bring a daypack with extra clothing, rain gear, and snacks, which were provided by Mountain Lodges of Peru. Plus, if you grew tired of your daypack, a trailing horse would carry it for you.

Each morning started with a fresh breakfast buffet featuring cereal and grains, breads, yogurt, sliced meats, cheese, juices, coffee, tea, and eggs.

Day 1 began at Marcoccasa, a small village situated at 10,500 feet above sea level and a few hours drive west of Cusco. Our route climbed 2,000 feet and followed a centuries-old aqueduct built by the Incas and still bringing water from the mountains to towns below.

Two nights at Salkantay Lodge bookended an acclimation hike to 14,400-foot Humantay Lake on Day 2. Wonderful views of the lake, Mount Humantay and another grass and boulder-swept valley put smiles on our faces and set our cameras to clicking. That evening after dinner — pumpkin soup and trout with elderberries — Sergio, the bartender, showed us how to make a Pisco Sour, Peru's national libation. The drink consists of pisco (a regional brandy) limejuice, simple syrup, bitters and egg whites all blended with ice. "The perfect Pisco Sour," he said, "is a free Pisco Sour." He then proceeded to pour everyone a perfect Pisco Sour.

While the first two days were spent hiking under blue skies and sunshine, day three opened with rain that quickly turned to sleet as we neared 15,253-foot Salkantay Pass. On the downward side the trail grew slick and muddy. However, being on a luxury trip meant a hot lunch served inside a tent. Soon steaming mugs of coffee, tea and cocoa made the rounds followed by chicken soup and stuffed chicken with vegetables. "It was definitely the best meal I've ever had in a tent," said Phill, who with his wife Wendy, were celebrating her 40th birthday with Mountain Lodges of Peru.

On Day 4 our route descended through the cloud forest, which brought wonderful views of vibrant, exotic flowers including Dancing Lady orchids and hummingbirds, especially the Peruvian Giant Hummingbird, which looked as big as a robin. "We're lucky the weather is rainy and overcast," said Fernando. "Because if it was hot and sunny, we would not see any birds."

The last day's hike required a climb of 2,000 feet followed by a 3,000 foot descent to a train station where we relaxed with Peruvian beer and alpaca-on-a-stick before being transported to Aguas Calientes. Then it was on to Machu Picchu the following morning, where Fernando escorted us on a memorable tour of the fabulous ruins.

IF YOU GO

The cost of the seven-day trek is $2,500, which includes everything except alcoholic drinks. Mountain Lodges of Peru's hiking season runs from March-December.

Mountain Lodges of Peru can be found at www.mountainlodgesofperu.com. For more info you can e-mail info@mountainlodgesofperu.com.

Dan Gindling is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.