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The Long but Worthwhile Trail to Sequoia's Bearpaw High Sierra CampBy Jim Farber At 7 a.m. (PST) on Jan. 2, avid hikers from around the world will begin frantically dialing 866-807-3598, hoping to book a reservation at the Bearpaw High Sierra Camp in California's Sequoia National Park. Open from mid-June to mid-September (depending on trail conditions), it is the only camp of its kind in the park. And since there are only six tent cabins, competition for reservations is stiff. Then comes the real challenge — an arduous (though exceedingly scenic) 11.5 -mile hike to the camp, which is located at 7,800 feet above sea level overlooking California's Great Western Divide. By most people's standards getting to Bearpaw from the trail head at Crescent Meadow is a long hike. And to make matters even more challenging, the most difficult section comes at the very end as the trail climbs the final 1.5 miles. If you're one of the lucky people who gets this far, you may end up feeling like Ronald Coleman slogging through the mountains in the classic film, "Lost Horizon." But just as Coleman finds paradise at the end of his trail, arriving at Bearpaw is like discovering Shangri-La in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. And just like in the movie, the grand vista remains hidden until the last possible moment. The High Sierra Camp system in Yosemite and Sequoia was established more than 70 years ago in an effort to provide a degree of comfort for those willing to trek into the backcountry. And to be honest, the facilities (which are now administered by the Delaware North Cos.) have not changed very much over the course of those seven decades. But for those familiar with the task of carrying a heavy backpack, the thought that a cozy tent cabin with real beds, plentiful home-cooked food and a hot shower is waiting at the end of the trail is worth its weight in gold. I mean that literally because a stay at Bearpaw is not exactly cheap. The cost is $175 per night (based on double occupancy). But that also includes a delicious hearty breakfast and dinner cooked and served family-style in the commodious cook shack by members of the camp staff. After dinner you can relax on the porch of the cook shack or lie on the warm rocks as the shades of sunset fade and the moon rises over the summit of distant peaks. Then it's time to sit around the campfire with your fellow hikers before turning in for the night. Because of the strenuous nature of the hike, you should plan to stay at least two nights. The extra day will allow time to explore the miles of trails that extend out from Bearpaw or to just relax in camp. The hikes are spectacular, following rushing streams to shimmering blue High Sierra lakes. Wildlife abounds, including bears.
When making reservations, it is important to consider the season. Hiking to Bearpaw in mid to late June involves crossing numerous creeks that will be running at their highest levels of the year. You could even encounter snow. And the nights are guaranteed to be cold. Early July brings milder weather, more songbirds and the beginning of the wildflower bloom. You're also sure to encounter mosquitoes and gnats, which can be exceedingly annoying on the trail. Early August tends to produce the grandest show of wildflowers and gentler temperatures. But be prepared for afternoon thunderstorms, which are common in the Sierras. Late August and early September will be dryer but less colorful. Though food and lodging are provided, you will still need to carry a pack containing your clothes, toiletries, rain gear, food for lunch and plenty of water. Merthen Creek, at the six-mile mark, is an ideal rest stop for a well-deserved lunch. It is also advisable to arrive in Sequoia at least a day before your hike. This will allow time to acclimate and obtain the required (free) wilderness permit at the Lodgepole National Park Service office. The Wuksachi Lodge provides an ideal place to spend the first and last night of your visit. The lodge features comfortable rooms and a fine dining room and bar. Rates run between $130-$185 per night during high season (May-October). If time permits, plan to explore the region's groves of Giant Sequoias and make the trip into the depths of Kings Canyon National Park. A hike to Bearpaw should not be taken lightly. It is a definite challenge that requires conditioning and trail savvy. But the payoff is well worth it. IF YOU GO Bearpaw High Sierra Camp reservations are taken on a first come, first serve basis beginning at 7 a.m. on Jan. 2. Phone: 866-807-3598. Payment in full is due at the time of your reservation. Cancellations (with a complete refund) can be made up to 60 days prior to your trip. Canceled trips then become available to the general public. So if you were not initially able to make a reservation, it pays to check back. Wilderness Permits: Lodgepole National Park Service office: 559-565-3341. Wuksahi Lodge: 888-252-5757 or www.visitsequoia.com. Sequoia National Park is reached by California Routes 180 (from the north) and Route 198 (from the south).
Jim Farber is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com. COPYRIGHT 2009 CREATORS.COM. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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