Mysteries Along the Nile by Various Travel Authors on Creators.com

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Mysteries Along the Nile

While my fellow passengers seemed rather ordinary, the ports of call on my Nile cruise were both exotic and mysterious. Thousands of years had erased what might once have been obvious. While the Nile provided transit for ancient gods, pharaohs and mummies, even its source was a mystery until the 19th century. Fortunately, our well-informed guides provided answers.

I chose a four-day, three-night trip downstream between Aswan and Luxor, offering the same itinerary as the four-night upstream cruise but with less time aboard ship. Five- and seven-night cruises are also available. This stretch of the Nile has the greatest concentration of well-preserved monuments in Egypt. The 62-room cruiser TuYa was also my base for sightseeing in both Aswan and Luxor.

GETTING STARTED

An excursion to Abu Simbel was a highlight among highlights; my wonder was divided between the majesty of the site and the mystery of its survival. The temples at Abu Simbel would have been completely covered by Lake Nasser upon the completion of the Aswan High Dam. Yet, in the mid-1960s, a combination of foreign archaeological teams and contributions totaling $40 million resulted in these temples being moved to higher ground. More than 2,000 blocks weighing between 10 and 40 tons were assembled inside an artificially built mountain and then perfectly aligned.

Most visitors to Abu Simbel arrive early to see the gigantic stone sentinels guarding the Great Temple of Ramses II turn golden in the morning sun. More statues of the pharaoh, his favorite wife Nefertari, and family members adorn the interior in addition to scenes from the Battle of Kadesh (1274 B.C.). Near the great temple is the smaller Temple Of Hathor where many figures are portrayed in Hathor's bovine shape.

Another popular excursion is the Temple of Isis on Philae. However, the island of Philae no longer exists; it was submerged by the Aswan Dam. Another feat of financing and modern technology reconstructed Philae on nearby Agilka Island. The temples, shrines, and pavilions boast intricate carvings paying homage to Isis and other gods. Even the landscaping replicates the original, making the entire island a treasure from antiquity.

The Nile at Aswan is particularly interesting so most itineraries arrange for passengers to enjoy an outing by felucca, a traditional Egyptian sailboat. Aswan is the heart of Nubia, where fishing and boating are time-honored occupations. Usually the crew is Nubian, wearing flowing brown or gray galabiyyas; they often sing and clap, encouraging guests to join in. At sunset, dozens of feluccas zigzag along, entertaining one another on the river.

UNDER WAY

The TuYa, like most modern Nile cruisers, has an open top deck featuring a shaded dining area, a swimming pool, and comfortable lounge chairs from which to observe the river. While verdant riverbanks are the rule, the greenery gives way soon to barren desert, a reminder of the Nile's role as agricultural lifeline for this country. Minarets rise from villages and an occasional farmer or fisherman can be seen near the shore. Passing boats were mostly similar to the TuYa because the differences among 4- and 5-star boats are primarily in decor.

Passengers were tempted from their lounge chairs by the sight of the Temple of Kom Ombo commanding a promontory at a bend in the Nile. The temple is unique in Egypt for having a dual dedication; both Horus the Elder and Sobek, the crocodile god, are honored here. Sacred crocodiles sunned themselves on this site in ancient times and were mummified and are displayed in the temple.

The symmetrical temple has twin entrances and two hypostyle halls wherein the roofs are supported by pillars. Among the fascinating reliefs is a wall calendar in hieroglyphics showing the ancient Egyptian system of a 360-day year plus five holidays, divided into 36 weeks of 10 days with eight days for work followed by two days off. Some carvings portray the god of medicine, Imhotep, and his medical instruments.

I was mystified by the troughs in the limestone floor that I had noticed a few in other temples but none so well preserved. Our guide explained they were to avert earthquake destruction: If the ground should move, the spaces allow room for repositioning without causing the floors to crack and bring down the columns.

Vendors line the Kom Ombo quay offering another opportunity to purchase extremely inexpensive souvenirs such as scarves, beads, woven handicrafts, and Egyptian-style clothing.

Unlike many other bazaar areas, it's relatively easy to avoid the insistent haranguing by retreating aboard ship. Bargaining over prices is an essential art form in Egypt, but prices are so low there's no need to worry over getting the "best" price.

When our boat docked at Edfu, we took a 10-minute bus ride to the Temple of Horus. Its location above the reach of Nile floodwaters makes it the best-preserved temple in Egypt. Much of the interior is dark, adding a sense of mystery. The many reliefs represent battles between Horus, the falcon symbol, and Seth, good and evil. The numerous falcon statues are favorite photo opportunities. Wall scenes depict the history of the Ptolemy dynasties until the time of Cleopatra.

LUXOR

After passing through the locks at Esna, we approached Luxor and were unprepared for the volume of cruisers docked five and six abreast. Therefore, the view from most cabin windows is of other boats. Luxor, formerly ancient Thebes, is truly the jewel of the Nile. Although part of every cruise is spent exploring the area, I was delighted to have two additional days ashore.

Opposite the quay stands the Temple of Luxor, especially beautiful at dusk and after dark. It is open daily well into evening. Two huge seated statues of Ramses II flank the entrance pylon where a familiar pink granite obelisk stands, familiar because the companion obelisk now stands in the Place de la Concorde in Paris. Massive columns rise with either lotus or papyrus motifs. Shrines, chapels, a birth room, and courtyards complete the complex.

Visiting magnificent temples daily did not prepare me for the immensity of the Karnak Temples, about 1 1/2 miles from the Temple of Luxor. The complex covers 100 acres while its history spans 13 centuries. The main structure, the Temple of Amun, is the largest religious building ever built. Enter through the avenue of ram-headed sphinxes to the first of 10 pylons built by various pharaohs over the centuries. Highlights include the Great Hypostyle Hall with 134 towering papyrus-shaped stone pillars, a giant statue of Ramses II and his (much smaller) wife, and the sacred lake. There is a sound-and-light show nightly in English.

The sites on the West Bank are equally impressive, starting with the Colossi of Memnon. Visitors ask who are these faceless figures and why are they standing all alone. Each statue weighs about 1,000 tons and is cut from a single block of stone. The huge memorial temple once thought to stand here has disappeared but the figures remain, delighting visitors from early Greek and Roman times until the present.

The Valley of the Kings reveals a new level of artistry. Protected from external elements, the tombs are decorated with scenes, hieroglyphics and symbols with their muted primary colors often intact. A new visitors center contains helpful relief maps to entertain those waiting for the jitney to the tombs. Our guide recommended buying the separate ticket for King Tutankhamen's tomb here with the general admission ticket.

Those riches of ancient Egypt not looted over the centuries are in museums around the world, with the Egyptian Museum in Cairo and the much smaller Luxor Museum being outstanding. The Luxor Museum opened in 1975 and added a wing in 2004. The incomparable treasures are beautifully displayed in modern settings heightening the visitor's experience. Rare objects, good lighting and multimedia displays make this a must see. The Mummification Museum near Luxor Temple houses 150 relics, including mummies, coffins, and the tools and materials of embalming, guarded by a statue of Anubis, the jackal king of embalming.

The Nile, with its wonders waiting to be explored, offers an unforgettable experience. Given the strength of the U.S. dollar against the Egyptian pound, the real mystery is why I didn't come to Egypt sooner or plan to stay longer!

IF YOU GO

For information about travel throughout Egypt go to www.egypt.travel.

For more about Nile cruises: www.mstuya.com.

For reservations and information in Egypt on Sound-and-Light call:

Abu Simbel, 097-2400325 or 097-2400326; Karnak, 095-2372241; Philae 097-2324693.

A wide range of accommodations in Luxor includes Hilton Luxor Resort & Spa, super deluxe (www.hilton.com); Sofitel Winter Palace Luxor, moderate; and Mercure Luxor, low cost (both at www.accorhotels.com).

For flights to Aswan and Luxor contact www.egyptair.com.

Susann Tepperburg is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.