Kilauea's Blazing Eruptions Light Up the Big Island by Various Travel Authors on Creators.com

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The last time I visited Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on the Island of Hawaii, conditions had changed dramatically from earlier trips. Spectacular new eruptions from the Kilauea Volcano had been causing island air to become more "voggy," or polluted by the increased volcanic emissions of sulfur dioxide. Hawaii's balmy trade winds generally blow the "vog" and sulfur dioxide out to sea, but occasionally the winds shift. The National Park Service monitors the situation closely.

As a result of recent volcanic activity, visitors have been able to see astonishing eruptions and lava flows that added 550 acres to the Big Island since 1986.

It wasn't until I purchased and viewed the DVD "Eruption Update Winter 2009" — produced by Volcano Video Productions, narrated by Dr. Ken Hon and John Kjargaard, and directed by Cheryl Gansecki — that I began to comprehend the extent and history of Kilauea's continuous activity. The first eruption in recent times occurred Jan. 3, 1983. In the years since, searing hot lava flows and radiant heat have set forests on fire and obliterated Kalapana, a residential subdivision. Nearly 200 homes and structures, a National Park visitor center and a Hawaiian temple called a "heiau" have been lost.

Yet the spectacle of molten lava continues to attract visitors by the thousands, even outside park boundaries. The County of Hawaii has opened up a free viewing area in Kalapana (end of Hwy 130 and a 1 1/2 mile hike) where people can see lava flowing into the ocean and causing the water to boil. Currently, this area is opened from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. daily. Visitors can view the red/orange glowing lava cascading dramatically down against black cliffs and sky into a steaming sea.

In the crater areas, scientists report feeling the ground shaking under them as fountains of gas bubbles burst 100 feet into the air with eruptions of fire. The molten lava often displays iridescent splatter explosions, sending fist-sized rocks over crater walls into parking lots. Thin, fragile strands of volcanic glass named for the Hawaiian volcano goddess, Pele, are called Pele's hair. They shoot into the air as well as small droplets of volcanic rocks known as Pele's tears. Samples are on display in the park.

During my visit, portions of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park were closed due to potentially dangerous sulfur dioxide gas. I stopped by the Kilauea Visitors Center and viewed an excellent film on the history of the Hawaiian people and the history of the volcanic eruptions.

Next I drove west on the Crater Rim Drive to visit the Thomas A. Jaggar Museum, where I saw impressive plumes of steam and smoke spewing forth from the Halemaumau Crater, considered Pele's home. Just east of the Museum, much of Crater Rim Drive had been closed due to air quality.

I returned to the park entrance at the summit, and headed to sea level on the Chain of Craters Road, a 19-mile drive south to the Pacific Ocean. There were several craters to view, plus the Puuhuluhulu Cinder cone and the Kealakomo Overlook and picnic area.

I also wanted to see the Puuloa Petroglyphs, but big yellow signs warned visitors to stay inside their vehicles with windows closed and to use air conditioning in this portion of the park. Indeed, there were areas I drove through that looked and smelled like a thousand kitchen matches had just been struck. I could actually smell sulfur and see a bluish haze.

The Chain of Craters Road suddenly ends where burning lave destroyed the asphalt. Perhaps it was Pele's way of announcing to the world that she wanted to move from her caldera home to the cool blue waters of the Pacific Ocean.

IF YOU GO

The drive south from Hilo, Hawaii, is about 30 minutes to the park. (Southeast on Hwy. 19, which becomes Hwy.11 heading south.) From Kailua-Kona, you will need about 2 1/2 hours driving south along the west side, curving around the bottom of the island and north on Highway 11.

Lodging: Volcano House — This is the only hotel in the park. First built in 1866, it has been rebuilt and remodeled several times over the years. It operates a year-round campground three miles west of the park entrance on Route 11. For current room rates: www.volcanohousehotel.com; 808-967-7321.

Military: For active duty, reserve or retired, accommodations are available at the Kilauea Military Camp, a Joint Services recreation center, one mile west of park headquarters; 800-438-6707 or 808-967-8333.

Kilauea Lodge — Owned and operated by Albert and Lorna Jeyte, this delightful property offers spacious accommodations in a quiet rain forest. Amenities included robes, coffee service, heated towel rack and a large bottle of drinking water. No television or phone, but an adjoining common room with a fireplace provided a television and DVD player, reading material and puzzles. A double runs from $170 to $220. www.kilauealodge.com.; P.O. Box 116, 19-3948 Old Volcano Rd., Volcano Village, Hawaii 96785; 808-967-7366.

Dining — The Volcano House offers the Ka'Ohelo Room, a snack shop and Uncle George's Lounge. I had dinner and breakfast at the Kilauea Lodge where my mahi-mahi with papaya ginger sauce plus salad and rice was delicious. For breakfast I tried banana pancakes with crisp bacon, orange juice and tea. Other restaurants outside the park are located at the Volcano Golf Course and in Volcano Village.

Useful websites: For eruption updates, go to; www.bigisland.org/volcanoupdate; for Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, www.nps.gov/havo; for Kalapana Lava Viewing Area updates: Hawaii County Civil Defense lava hotline: 808-961-8093 or: www.lavainfo.us; To see a live panorama of Pu'u O'o vent of Kilauea Volcano: http://hvo.wr.usgs.gov/cam; and to see a lava panorama of Halema'uma'u Crater: http://hvo.wr.usgs.gov/cam3/

U.S. Geological Survey. (end caption)

Patricia Arrigoni is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.