By Patricia Woeber

In addition to the great cultural attractions in France, music is an often-overlooked theme. The abundant production of outstanding musical events occurs in cities, towns and medieval villages all over the country. Performances are held in magnificent venues that include Gothic cathedrals and abbeys, theaters, Roman coliseums, and squares great and small.

I unexpectedly learned about these offerings during a visit to southwestern France. The ancient village of Conques lies on a hillside above a gorge in wild hills not far from the city of Toulouse, which is the capital of the Midi-Pyrenees region and one of France's most culturally interesting and scenic areas.

On arrival, I spent a few hours strolling Conques' streets and admiring medieval homes roofed with lauzes — fish-scale-shaped silver-colored slate. It's no wonder this village is recognized as one of the most beautiful in France. UNESCO classes Conques as a World Heritage Site.

During the 11th, 12th and 13th centuries, Conques' importance for visiting pilgrims was based on Ste-Foy Abbey, a magnificent structure adorned with glorious carvings on the tympanum and the relics of the saint. Monsieur Jean Regis, a local priest, greeted me and mentioned that free organ music, concerts, and choirs perform in the abbey. In fact, he suggested I could hear an organ and singing recital that very night.

After dinner, I joined others in the nave for Schubert's music, which filled the great building and surrounded us with transcendental glory. Listening to extraordinarily stirring music in such an ancient hallowed place was a profoundly moving experience.

I discovered that free and ticketed events are played in abbeys, cathedrals, cloisters and a variety of other public places, as well as tiny villages and private chateaux, and are timed for spring, summer and fall all over France. They offer opera; classical concerts; symphonies; organ, voice and piano recitals; choirs, rock and pop, jazz, Latin and folkloric in spectacular shows.

There's traditional classical opera, ballet and symphony in elegant theaters and unusual jazz in tiny 13th century villages. And there are unique "sound" competitions —but more about this later.

In cosmopolitan Toulouse, I looked into diverse choices of concerts and performances held in stunning venues. Some of the world's top pianists give recitals in the Jacobins Cathedral (built 1230-1340), famous for its palm-vaulted ceiling and soaring stained-glass windows. In June, a Bach Organ festival is played in St. Sernin, the largest Romanesque basilica in France. Six magnificent churches are open for events, as well as the Theatre du Capitole, the Halle aux Grains, and Temple du Salin.

Throughout the year, classical music is performed in Museum Paul-Dupuy and in Museum des Augustins, an ancient monastery (Bach is scheduled for 2010). Hotel d'Assenat, a historic 17th century mansion, holds theater and music. In June, one can catch the beat on the Garonne River bank during "Rio Loco" (jazz, rock, pop, Latin and African music).

Another of my favorite cities in the Midi-Pyrennes is Albi, la ville rouge (similar to Toulouse, it's built with the red bricks). The mammoth Gothic Ste-Cecile Cathedral (13th to 14th century) is a must-see. The annual three-week festival (mid-July to early August) includes symphonies, chamber orchestras, choral groups and piano recitals. About a dozen events are held in Ste-Cecile and other sites.

In the world of jazz, Marciac represents the best with its famous annual international jazz festival. This 13th century Gascogne village near Toulouse has drawn guest performers such as Wynton Marsalis, Dianne Reeves, Joshua Redman, Maceo Parker and Didier Lockwood.

Not far from Toulouse lies Moissac's great abbey, the country's oldest (more than 900 years old) and best-preserved cloister where events are held. It houses 76 carved capitals illustrating historic and biblical themes and scenes, and famous carvings on the facade. It is classed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Meanwhile, in the countryside amusing high jinks are going on. The "Fete de la Transhumance" in Aubrac (near Espalion) is a traditional event that celebrates the seasonal migration of cattle up the mountain to the summer pastures. The party is held in a pasture of Aubrac, a tiny village with nine permanent inhabitants that is surrounded by wild moors. The event includes dancing on the grass to the accompaniment of ancient bagpipes and accordions, while feasting on aligot, a delicious, creamy potatoes—and-cheese mixture made on the spot in huge kettles as beef sizzles on giant-sized barbeques. The pleasures expand with the excellent Cahors wines, particularly the famous Malbec, as well as the outstanding local wines produced down the hill in Espalion and Estaing.

Cahors, a historic, welcoming city lying in a loop of the Lot River, offers free organ recitals in its great cathedral. Auch Cathedral invites well-known organists from France and other countries. Nearby in Condom's lively small town — known for Armagnac brandy — music is offered in the cathedral's vaulted cloister.

Farther south in the Pyrenees Mountains, several towns present their own one-of-a-kind events. Bagneres-de-Bigorre's Voix Hautes music festival explores voice expression. Cauterets, an exquisite village high in the mountains, holds a festival of Latin rock in mid-July.

Garvarnie's historic festival showcases a mix of theater, music and dance, and takes place in the dramatic bowl formed by the high cliffs of the Cirque de Garvarnie. Several locations in Lourdes, including the mighty Basilica of Saint-Savin (and not far off Tarbes Cathedral), feature the "Festival of Sacred Music."

If music is the food of love, it's found in Trie-sur-Baise. "La Pourcailhade et championnat de France du cri du cochon" is a contest for the best pig squeal. I completely misunderstood this concept and imagined trained pigs squealing and snorting in harmony and rhythm with the champions being awarded the sweetest corn. What really happens is that men dress up in pig costumes, wear plastic snouts and serenade their favorite pig with piggy sounds. In the true French tradition of gourmets, performers and audience feast on pork dishes.

IF YOU GO

Air France flies daily to Paris and on to Toulouse: www.airfrance.com.

From Paris, the TGV express train rapidly reaches other cities within a few hours: www.raileurope.com.

For general information: www.grandsites.midipyrenees.fr or www.tourism.midi-pyrenees.org.

Toulouse: www.hotelgaronne.com; www.pianojacobins.com; www.toulouse-les-orgues.org; www.uk.toulousetourisme.com/entertainment-and-events; www.festival-conque.com.

Albi: www.tourisme-tarn.com.

Marciac in August: www.jazzinmarciac.com; www.tourisme.moissac.fr; www.grandsites.midipyrenees.fr; www.tourisme-cahors.com.

Bagneres-de-Bigorre: www.einsteinonthebeach.net; www.festival-gavarnie.com; www.fr.lourdes-france.org/calendar.

Tres: www.triesurbaise.com

French Government Tourist Office: www.franceguide.com

Patricia Woeber is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.