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A Budget Rambler Discovers Bocas del Toro, Panama
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"Caribbean waters at just $13 a night, that's what," I said.
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Grandmother Shares Her Love for the Gardens in the Heart of France"Looks like a Monet, doesn't it?" I asked, hoping to connect Ariel, my 15-year-old granddaughter, to the scenery that had been a favorite subject of the painter. It was the first day of our trip in France, an auspiciously sunny spring morning as we drove south of Paris into region Val de Loire/Centre, toward Bourges, the geographical heart of France. "Yes ... so cool," said Ariel, viewing the lush countryside's spring leaves, and riotous bloom of yellow buttercups and Queen Anne's lace along the roadsides. Parents or grandparents taking a California teenager on the first trip out of the country trust that they will enrich the child. As I was a Francophile, I'd chosen France in the hope it would intrigue Ariel with its aesthetics, great chateaux, and unique gardens. After a couple of hours, we reached the Loire Valley and approached the 16th century Chateau de Villandry, notable for France's most celebrated gardens. I hoped Ariel would be impressed with the 10 manicured and brilliantly planned acres. The flowerbeds were designed to illustrate themes of love: heart-shaped areas of flowers and hedges depicted tender love and passion, while broken hearts symbolized fickle and tragic love. We strolled the lime tree avenues and were told that it took four months each year for four men to prune 1,260 lime trees and clip 32 miles of neat, low, boxwood hedges, parterres, so characteristic of French formal gardens. "Thirty-two miles are clipped every spring!" Ariel repeated, amazed. Afterward, we enjoyed spring salads in Villandry's La Douce Terrasse, a tented cafe. Our luncheon desserts caused quite a stir. Surveying her large, individual platter with numerous, exquisitely crafted, chocolate delights, she rubbed her hands in pleasure. "Chocolate the French way!" We spent happy hours exploring several gardens in the area, and each had some special quality that drew visitors. For example, Priore d'Orsan, a famous renovated medieval, 12th century garden, was designed into sections; a vegetable labyrinth, medicinal herb garden, cloister of shrubs, pear orchard, and much more. Religious symbolism inspired the designs. Ariel told me she was fascinated by how everything was ecological; branches supported plants and ropes made from stems held up vines and roses. The following day, we explored some of Drulon's 40 acres of flowerbeds, woods, a scenic lake, and a section with peonies. With great trepidation, the owner, Mr. Hendriks, had ordered 1,500 peonies from China through the Internet. He was thrilled that they were doing well, and he particularly enjoyed the gorgeous Chinese reds. We stayed for three nights in the magnificent Chateau de la Verrerie, with its 15th century chapel, medieval fortified wing, and 16th century Renaissance wing.
"Awesome! Look. The whole chateau looks so clear-as if it was built right there on the shore for its beauty." She pointed to the building's reflections. It delighted me that she'd developed this appreciation. We also toured several other private and government-owned chateaux. The private ones pampered us with bedrooms full of authentic antique furniture. The public sites (only open for day tours) offered royal history, romance, and drama. Eventually, all cool things must end, and we returned to home. IF YOU GO Great chateaux open for day tours charge a small fee: contact the Loire Valley Tourist Board www.visaloire.com and crtl.centre@crtlcentre.com. Passport Val de Loire about $30, entrance to 100 monuments, www.monum.fr; Chenonceau www.chenonceau@wanadoo.fr. Beauregard: www.loirefrance.com/visites/chateaux/beauregard Chateau de Ainay-le-Vieil: www.chateauxfrance.com/ainaylevieil/ Private chateaux for overnights have about six rooms with private bathrooms. Rates depend on the room or suite: La Verrerie: info@chateaulaverrerie.com; www.loiredeschateaux.com Hotel le Bon Labourer in Chenonceau has a swimming pool: www.bonlabourer@wanadoo.fr Maison de la Magie (at Blois) gives a wonderful show for kids: www.musees.regioncentre.fr French Government Tourist Office: www.franceguide.com PrieurŽ Notre-Dame d'Orsan (also serves excellent organic food; reservations needed) www.prieuredorsan.com Air France flies daily from several U.S. cities to Paris. At the time we flew, Air Tahiti Nui offered us the best rates from L.A. to Paris www.airtahitinui.com Take the train from Paris to Orleans and pick up a reserved Hertz or Avis at the train station. For tickets or passes Contact RailEurope at 1-800-307-7309 www.raileurope.com Passport Val de Loire about $30 for entrance to 100 monuments www.monum.fr French Government Tourist Office www.franceguide.com
Patricia Woeber is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com. COPYRIGHT 2009 CREATORS SYNDICATE INC.   
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