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Get Away From It All on California's Central Coast

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By Jim Farber

They were hunting for oil — black gold — along a sycamore-lined creek just south of the central California town of San Luis Obispo in 1886. What they discovered, however, was a mother lode of hot bubbling mineral water. Rather than being depressed, the two men decided to stake their claim. And in 1897 the Sycamore Mineral Springs Resort opened its doors for business. During the 1930s, when visitors could travel directly to the resort by train, it became a favorite getaway for Hollywood stars and those on the their way to Hearst Castle in San Simeon.

Tucked into 100 acres of rolling coastal hillside and verdant creek-fed meadows midway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, Sycamore Mineral Springs Resort (operated since 2003 by King Ventures), continues to offer visitors an opportunity to "take the waters" amid an atmosphere of California tranquility.

At Sycamore Mineral Springs Resort it's all about the water. Every room comes with its own outdoor hot tub (either mineral or fresh water). There is also a traditional swimming pool adjacent to the large leafy hot-spring grotto (available by reservation for parties of up to 40) called "The Oasis."

But the 22 individual mineral bath hot tubs arrayed within a forest of overhanging oak tress above the resort are by far the most popular attraction. Open from early morning until midnight to guests and the public, these secluded baths offer a blissful way to escape into a world of bubbling serenity. Add a glass of wine and the experience is complete. Robes are provided to all guests, and bathing suits are optional. The fee for guests is $15 (each) for an hour of sublime soaking.

The hillside where the hot tubs are located is rather steep and requires the navigation of multiple flights of stairs. But for those willing to ascend to its pinnacle, the hot tub known as Shangri-La offers secluded privacy with a panoramic view of the valley below — truly worthy of its idyllic moniker. My companion and I went at sunset, and it was spectacular.

Like its sister property, Two Bunch Palms Resort and Spa in Desert Hot Springs, Calif., the emphasis is on establishing a mood of peaceful tranquility. Quiet zones abound throughout the grounds. There is a hidden garden and stone labyrinth for meditative reflection. Even the rooms have names designed to mellow the spirit. Ours (in the newly developed West Meadow section of the resort) was called "Serenity," down the way from "Heavenly" and "Eloquence." There is a no-smoking policy, and pets are not allowed.

The resort's Healing Arts Institute — housed in an elegant tented structure — offers classes (free to guests) in yoga, Pilates, meditation and tai chi.

For those wishing to further pamper their bodies, the Sycamore Spa and Treatment Center provides a full range of therapeutic massages, facials and body treatments including a "Chardonnay Antioxidant Sugar Scrub."

The size, style and location of the rooms vary greatly — from comfortable and reasonably priced "Adventure" and "Harmony" buildings (beginning at around $135 a night) to the two-story spa suites and the opulent guest house (for six or more) with its three bedrooms, three baths, full kitchen and two outdoor hot tubs (around $1,000).

One of the most appealing aspects of Sycamore Mineral Springs Resort is its location — a mile off U.S. Highway 101 on Avila Beach Drive. Except for some traffic noise, the resort is like a serene island where you can totally relax. The Gardens of Avila restaurant (overseen by Chef David McWilliam) offers a delectable menu that emphasizes regionally grown organic produce. Breakfasts and lunches are generous and surprisingly reasonable.

If you feel like exploring, there are myriad options, either on foot, by bicycle or car. A scenic overland hiking trail connects the resort with Avila Beach (about five miles round-trip), and the resort offers guided nature hikes. The Bob Jones Trail is available for biking, and the rustic old seaport of San Luis is just two miles away with its wharf reminiscent of John Steinbeck's "Cannery Row."

For wine lovers, Sycamore Mineral Springs is just an 11-mile drive to one of the central coast's most beautiful wine-growing regions, the Edna Valley. Wineries abound specializing in Syrah, Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. Go on a weekday if you can since this is a very popular destination on the weekends and the crowds can be overwhelming. My favorite discovery was Claiborne & Churchill, which features the regional wines of the French Alsace. Our tasting included a fine dry Riesling and Gewurztraminer.

After a day of wine-tasting, we headed back to our room and a soak in our outdoor hot tub. What a way to end the day!

IF YOU GO

Sycamore Mineral Springs Resort, 1215 Avila Beach Drive, San Luis Obispo, CA, 93405; 800-234-5831 or 800-595-7302; www.smsr.com. Check the website for special packages.

Jim Farber is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

COPYRIGHT 2009 CREATORS.COM.



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