Travel and Adventure by Various Travel Authors

By Robert Selwitz

The Galapagos Islands always turn up on bucket lists of destinations, and it's easy to see why. In exchange for a little physical activity, visitors get to enjoy fascinating encounters with the islands' intriguing and seemingly docile creatures. Most also return with a better appreciation of these islands' impact upon Charles Darwin, the intrepid 19th-century naturalist whose visit here contributed to his beliefs that upended common concepts of evolution and theology.

Visiting four of the 13 major islands in 1835 during an 1831-1836 round-the-world voyage on the H.M.S. Beagle, Darwin encountered and scrutinized birds, reptiles and mammals, many of which did not exist elsewhere. His visit and subsequent studies led him to conclude that subtle physical differences determine which individuals survive to reproduce: Those whose traits meshed best with each island's specific environment thrived and over time became unique species.

This was totally at odds with the then almost universally accepted opinion that the world was less than 10,000 years old and all creatures had been placed here — fully formed — by God. Challenging that idea was critical in Darwin's publication more than two decades after his return to England of his extraordinary treatise, "On the Origin of Species."

Descendants of Galapagos finches, whose differing beaks Darwin scrutinized and meticulously analyzed, are definitely here. But even for visitors who have no interest in science or birding the chance to walk among more easily viewed creatures such as sea lions, blue-footed boobies (whose feet really are sky blue), flightless cormorants and fearsome-looking but amazingly docile marine iguanas is one of the world's greatest outdoor experiences.

One reason is that Galapagos residents display neither fear of nor concern for visiting humans. While all bipeds are instructed to stay 6 feet away from island denizens, that's sometimes challenging when sea lions or iguanas sprawl across marked pathways. By avoiding physical contact and carefully watching where one walks, time spent on these islands is fascinating and sobering, a genuine trip for the mind as well as the body.

That certainly was true for me during a weeklong, multi-island sail on the M/Y Eric, one of three compact, 20-passenger ships operated by Ecoventura. Living quarters were quite tight, but everything ran smoothly, thanks in large part to the extremely helpful crew.

Among many carriers plying the Galapagos, Ecoventura has particular appeal to snorklers who want to view what's beneath the waterline as well as above. Ecoventura builds in plenty of opportunities for dives and also provides wet suits and masks for all passengers. My fellow passengers agreed that while the waters were quite cool, the chance to swim with sea lions and view sharks, rays and a plethora of tropical fish was worth the effort.

For those who didn't go beneath the waterline, the island excursions —often two a day led by savvy guides — were never less than fascinating. And the Eric's smallish size gave it critical access to many locations larger vessels could not approach.

Except for two landings at Galapagos towns, traditional docks were nowhere in sight. Indeed more than half our calls were wet landings, meaning exit from and entry onto the panga (the motorized Zodiac hard rubber boats linking the Eric and shore) meant stepping into the water. Rubberized sandals for wet landings and solid, sturdy hiking shoes for walks on rough island terrain were an absolute must.

The first day's visit to Tower Island (also known as Genovesa) to view the above-water remnants of an extinct volcano typified the week's activities. Our three-hour morning hike started on a beach filled with sea lions. We then encountered swallow-tailed gulls (with red rings surrounding their eyes), frigate birds nesting on the ground and red-footed boobies nesting amid mangrove trees.

After a return to the boat for lunch, we sailed within the caldera toward another Tower location, Prince Phillip's Steps.

A dry landing required a 100-foot climb up uneven rocks, but once on top we saw Nazca booby hatchlings dining by thrusting their heads down their parent's throat and retrieving needed nourishment. Also here were red-footed boobies and Great Frigatebirds.

Later at Tagus Cove on Fernandina Island we encountered platoons of marine iguanas reveling in their "couch potato" lifestyle. Roughly once daily for a half-hour these grim-looking creatures waddle to the nearby sea, gobble down kelp or other greenery, then return to lie in the sun, often one on top of the other. They lie there until their body becomes sufficiently warm to activate their digestive system. Once fueled, they have sufficient energy to return to the water and repeat this lifelong scenario.

We also saw flightless cormorants, brilliantly red-orange Sally Lightfoot crabs, pelicans, a Galapagos hawk, massive turtles, and a special cactus that grows on the volcanic lava and helps break down the rocks.

Other highlights included North Seymour Island, where we watched male Magnificent Frigatebirds inflating their screamingly bright red-orange chests (females pick their mates in part by the sex appeal of these pouches) and platoons of blue-footed boobies.

Hood Island (also called Espanola) required navigating a rugged rock-strewn path (the rocks were wildly uneven and often jagged) but was also worth the effort. Here were hordes of sea lions, nursing their young and fighting over territory. Particularly intriguing were red marine iguanas (actually red and black) in splendid repose, blue-footed boobies doing their signature mating dance (the male entices a female by slowly lifting one foot and then the other) and huge (more than 6-foot wing span) Waved Albatross, which only alight by sauntering off high cliffs to catch air currents upon which they glide.

On Santa Cruz we visited a tortoise farm where massive domed tortoises roam. We also toured the Darwin Research Center, where the mission is to increase tortoise breeding and ultimately return offspring to the wilds. Here we met century-old Lonesome George, a massive turtle who is the last of his tortoise subspecies. For years center workers have been urging George to mate with another tortoise to keep his genetic line alive, but thus far George has not cooperated.

We also visited the lively town of Puerto Ayora, where Internet connections were most welcome after five days without. Also entertaining was the wild pelican scrum aimed at the catch returning town fishermen bring home each afternoon.

Just before our return flight to the mainland from San Cristobal Island, we visited the Interpretation Museum, where Galapagos Island history is detailed. Exhibits include the 19th-century human impact from Darwin's time, the islands' use as a prison colony and the steps that led to the Galapagos becoming a protected national park in 1959.

While the Galapagos is part of Ecuador, lying some 600 miles west of that country in the Pacific Ocean, its attractions are a world unto itself. Since I'd come this far, however, I wanted to experiencing mainland portions of the nation that owns and protects these extraordinary Islands. To get to the Galapagos, one first must fly to Ecuador's capital, Quito, or to its largest city, Guayaquil, for a separate flight to the islands. This being the case, it's a good idea to build in time to experience Quito, arguably South America's best-preserved colonial city and Cuenca, Otavalo or other fascinating Andes Mountain draws. The lush jungles of the eastern rainforest are also tempting, and so is the bustling city of Guayaquil itself.

WHEN YOU GO

Ecoventura operates three 20-passenger, 10-cabin vessels plus a 16-passenger dive ship: www.ecoventura.com or 800-633-7972.

Ecuador Tourism: www.ecuadortouristboard.com

Hotel Oro Verde is a centrally located and well-run Guayaquil property with excellent attached deli and a free airport shuttle: www.oroverdehotels.com.

Robert Selwitz is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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