Travel and Adventure by Various Travel Authors

By Robert Selwitz

Because any mention of Ecuador brings to mind such natural wonders as the Galapagos Islands, rainforest, and Andean peaks and villages, many visitors either bypass or spend insufficient time in Quito or Cuenca, two of South America's most appealing destinations. Even fewer pause in Guayaquil, Ecuador's largest city and prime commercial hub.

Quito, Ecuador's capital — at 9,350 feet above sea level and surrounded by a dozen Andean volcanoes — is Ecuador's second largest city with an estimated population of 1.6 million. While this altitude causes some visitors to lose energy, walking through the old city is definitely worth the effort. For here, perhaps more than in any other city, the flavor of its earliest days under Spanish rule is retained. Spanish rule began in 1534, when Quito was conquered by Sebastian de Benalcazar. Today his home is open to visitors, and for its preservation and that of hundreds of other and later counterparts, historic Quito was designated a World Heritage site in 1978.

The heart of the old town is effectively overseen and protected by the city's excellent tourist police. Located there is a maze of windy streets along with several churches, museums, restaurants and the Presidential Palace.

One Quito "don't miss" is the gold-festooned Jesuit church, La Compania de Jesus, an excellent example of baroque churches. Gold is seemingly everywhere, providing a stunning, gleaming facade on a magnificent wooden base. Nearby is the baroque San Francisco Church and Plaza. Quito's oldest church is part of a vast complex that includes a convent with a half-dozen patios. Within the church itself are a Moorish-inspired ceiling and Incan images such as the sun god. These are emblematic of early Spanish efforts to incorporate the faiths of conquered natives with the newly arrived Catholicism.

Just steps away lies the Casa del Alabado Museum of Pre Columbian Art. Housed in a 17th-century colonial mansion, it displays hundreds of exquisite statues and other objects that detail the intricate and vibrant works that flourished until the Spanish arrived, work that was quickly squelched by the conquerors and the Catholic Church.

A good change of pace is a visit to Ecuador's Presidential Palace via free escorted Spanish-language tours run several times daily. Groups view ballrooms, offices, meeting chambers, murals and awards. When they depart, all visitors receive the gift of a picture of themselves taken in the palace gardens.

There's plenty more to experience in colonial Quito, too. In La Ronda Street artisans produce traditional handicrafts that include embroideries and candles. Beautifully preserved Junin Street features elegant architecture and a bevy of smallish museums.

Visitors to these locales need to be particularly aware of their surroundings and possessions, however. These streets are somewhat out of the main tourist route and do not get the same police attention as the central areas.

The No. 1 sight in Quito's modern sector is the National Museum of the Central Bank of Ecuador. This museum has a collection of pre-Columbian gold, primarily found at burial sites. Masks, ceremonial objects, household goods and statuary display not just the intrinsic value of the gold itself, but creative shapes and designs unimpeded by restrictions that were later imposed by the Spanish. There are also displays of statue molds and explanations of the use of alloys and the many steps required to create the masterpieces on display. The Mask With Serpent Rays is as remarkable as anything in Peru or Mexico City.

A taste of Ecuador's cuisine should also be part of a visit. Especially noteworthy are the complex potato soup and the richly textured shrimp cevices that are totally different from their Peruvian counterparts.

Each makes a meal all by itself.

Some 260 miles south of Quito lies Cuenca, the country's third largest city (approximately 350,000 people) and a favorite relocation spot for North American retirees. However, Cuenca — another UN World Heritage site — does not resemble a typical retirement enclave. Rather, it's a historically rich city where a comfortable modern district surrounds a fascinating historic area.

At the heart of this area is the main square is the massive New Cathedral, where construction commenced n 1885 with vast interior space and domes that emulate St. Peter's in Vatican City. Indeed, Pope John Paul II said when he visited that he felt right at home. Across the plaza is the lovingly restored Old Cathedral, erected during the 16th century. It provides a fascinating look back at the earliest years of Spanish rule. For example during the recently completed renovation, painted-over frescoes dating to 1573 were uncovered.

Cuenca is perfect for walking and exploring everything from crafts shops and markets to galleries and museums. One of the best is Museo Banco Central Pumapungo. Inside is another collection of Inca and other archaeological finds, plus life-sized re-creations of dwellings from all over Ecuador. Adjacent to the museum is an open area where it's possible to wander through the ruins of the Pumapungo Inca palace that dates to the decades right before the Spanish arrived, when what today is Cuenca was, after Cuzco (now in Peru), the Incas' second most important city.

Another must for most visitors is to visit a Panama hat factory. On a tour at Homer Ortega — one of a dozen manufacturers within Cuenca — it is possible to watch the creation process, find out why these Ecuadorian products are incorrectly connected to Panama (foreign canal diggers, who found them very useful sun protection, assumed they must be a Panamanian product) and even buy one to take home.

Cuenca is also a base for great day trips. A particularly intriguing one is to visit surrounding towns. These include San Bartolom, where artisans specialize in fine guitars; Chordeleg, where women weave dome foundations of Panama hats while they walk in the main square and which overflows with jewelry shops; and Gaulaceo, with an outdoor market ideal for great shopping and photography.

Slightly farther away are the ruins of Ingapirca, the ceremonial city of the Incas and the Canari who preceded them, and Cajas National Park with amazing mountain scenery and miles of moderate to challenging hiking trails.

While many visitors pause in Guayaquil (population approximately 2 million) just to connect to Galapagos Island-bound flights, there are reasons for a longer stopover. These include the lovingly restored riverside Malecon Simon Bolivar, the Museum of Anthropology and Contemporary Art, and the steep hillside community of Cerro Santa Ana, accessed via 465 steep steps. En route are beautifully colored homes, restaurants, art galleries and fine views. All are now safely accessible after a massive urban renewal effort.

Also worth several hours is the board-walked Guayaquil National Historic Park. On hand are a rainforest, mangrove forest, South American animals ranging from parrots to tapirs, monkeys and even a crab-eating raccoon. There's also a circa-1900 mansion that used to be in the middle of the city, a peasant's house, a banana plantation and even a 19th-century train.

WHEN YOU GO

Hilton Colon Hotel, Quito: www.hilton.com

Metropolitan Touring specializes in short and extended explorations of Ecuador, Colombia, Peru, Chile and Argentina: www.metropolitan-touring.com.

Hotel Casa del Aguila, Cuenca: www.hotelcasadelaguila.com

Homer Ortega Panama hat factory: www.homeroortega.com

Hotel Oro Verde: www.oroverdeguayaquil.com or www.lhw.com (Leading Hotels of the World)

Robert Selwitz is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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