Travel and Adventure by Various Travel Authors

For Berliners, Nov. 9 marks the 20th anniversary of the event that changed virtually everything. On that date in 1989, following months of intensifying pressure, East Germany's government and its border guards suddenly allowed free access to the west. Thousands poured through checkpoints — including the Brandenburg Gate — a crossing that, just days before, might well have proved lethal.

Within hours, the Wall that had divided Berlin since 1961, was being painted and pulverized, with chunks suddenly becoming Europe's favorite souvenir.

Today, the focus in reunited Berlin is again on the East, just where it was prior to World War II. Then, and now, this is where most of the city's social and cultural action takes place.

The Brandenburg Gate still stands as the city's most famous icon. Steps away, is the glass-domed parliament building, the Reichstag, built to mark and accommodate the German Federal government's return from Bonn.

The Gate is also starting point for Berlin's once, and once again, most famous avenue, the Unter den Linden. To grasp its importance, take an eastbound walk past the Hotel Kempinski, one of the city's ritziest, the elegant Staatsoper, Berlin's most notable shops, and finally the beginnings of the city's visual arts heart, Museum Island.

But the area near where the Wall once stood also holds plenty of reminders of Germany's grim past. A block from the Brandenburg Gate is the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. It consists of 2,711 concrete blocks of various heights through which visitors are encouraged to wander. Starting among low-lying units one, eventually is surrounded by blocks that tower high above.

As the blocks increasingly dominate one's view, the resulting disquietude many feel is meant to symbolize the sense of powerlessness felt by those ripped from their families and community and placed at the mercy of a merciless state. This is further enhanced by a visit to an underground museum featuring family photographs, histories of their lives before and, in some cases, after the concentration camps, and written remembrances — under glass and covering the floors — from victims' letters and notes

Another must-see is the Jewish Museum, not primarily a holocaust museum but rather a depiction, through artifacts and documents, that emphasizes that Jews have been part of German life for nearly two millennia, and not — as the Nazis stressed — foreign interlopers bent on ruining "Aryan" society.

Particularly fascinating is the medieval section depicting Crusades-era pogroms, the role of Jews in early German commerce, and profiles of prominent Jews.

Designed by famed architect Daniel Liebeskind, there is also a compact Holocaust portion featuring numerous stories of concentration camp victims. And, before exiting, you enter an isolation chamber, an outdoor space — the height of the museum — where at the top there is a thin sliver of light, bright enough to be seen, but too weak to provide heat or visibility.

Also intriguing is the restored portion of the 19th century Neue Synagogue, Oranienburger Strasse 30, which for decades prior to World War II was the focal point of Berlin's Jewish community. Once seating 3,200, today its both a community center and a photographic and icon-packed remembrance of that society.

And the aptly named, and nearby Museum Island, has more draws than even the most dedicated art aficionado could absorb. Highlights include the Pergamon Museum, home to the astounding Pergamon Altar, the Ishtar Gate, the Miletus Gate, and one of the world's best collections of Middle Eastern art. Other Island highlights include the Bode Museum, Altes Museum and Old National Gallery.

Another major draw is the German Historical Museum, in a former Hohenzollern palace. As an introduction or refresher course about German history, from Roman to modern times, it is unparalleled. Exhibits are well spaced, and all come with user-friendly English explanations.

Speaking of history, everyone should encounter the Checkpoint Charlie Museum, a former crossing that's filled exhibits and tales abut successful and unsuccessful attempts to escape from East Germany despite the ominous wall.

Also, touring portions of the standing Wall portions with either a live or audio guide can prove to be an invaluable and fascinating history lesson.

Back in Berlin's old/new center is Potsdammer Platz, another Berlin scene filled with offices, trendy shops, restaurants, and several heavily graffitied Wall panels, still standing where they arose in 1961.

As a further remembrance, the standing wall panels are part of a redbrick trail, which, throughout Berlin, traces the location of the former wall.

Not far away lies the Berlin Philharmonie (Herbert-von-Karajan Strasse 1), a stunning, eye-grabbing hall with seating that surrounds the orchestra. While hearing the renowned Berlin Philharmonic would be ideal, do attend a performance by almost any of the many fine ensembles that perform here almost every night of the week. The best spots are raised, front-facing orchestra locations.

In fact, the Philharmonie is just one of the reasons that Berlin is widely ranked — along with London and Vienna — at the apex of Europe's music scene. Another impressive venue is the stately, elegant and completely traditional Konzerthaus on the elegant Gendamermarkt.

Then there are Berlin's three major opera companies. The Staatsoper, home to top singers and conductors, performing relatively, for Europe, standard productions; the Komische Oper where performance range from stylishly clever (as with a recent Prokofiev "Love of Three Oranges") to absolutely off-the-wall (a sado-masochistic, audience-enraging rendering of Mozart's Abduction from the Seraglio"). And, in the west, the Deutsche Oper usually earns high marks for its offerings.

Indeed, a visit to the west should not be overlooked. The city's transplanted heart for more than 50 years, it thrived when defending West Berlin was a top Cold War priority, and where massive investments created a stark contrast with the downtrodden, and largely unreconstructed territory under communist control.

The most famous western symbol is the remains of the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, bombed in 1943. It stands on Kufurstendam, the sector's main commercial street.

Also noteworthy is Charlottenburg Palace, summer home of the Prussian Hohenzollern monarchs. Erected during the late 15th century, it was reconstructed following World War II bombings. Also worth a look are the lovely palace gardens.

And, when in the neighborhood, a definite must is the Breugen Museum, with extraordinary collections of Paul Klee, Alberto Giacometti and Pablo Picasso. Next door is the Brohan Museum featuring art deco designs and furniture. Directly across the street is an appealing Surrealism museum.

Visitors should also be aware of two more points: Berlin, with many more hotel rooms than New York City, is one of Europe's least expensive places to sleep, eat and be entertained. Also, transportation — a combination of subways, rail lines and buses — are extensive and reasonably priced.

For a daytrip out of Berlin, consider a short jaunt to Potsdam, with its Schloss Cecilienhof royal palace that was the site of the July-August, 1945 Potsdam conference, staged by victorious allies (and attended by Stalin, Churchill and Truman) to determine post World War II strategies. Also intriguing is the magnificent Sanssouci Palace, the summer home of Frederick the Great of Prussia.

Farther away, but easily reachable by train is the gorgeously restored Dresden with its Semper Oper and Frauenkirche (Lady's Church); and Leipzig, with strong links to such music luminaries as Johann Sebastian Bach, Felix Mendelssohn and Robert Schumann.

IF YOU GO

Adlon Hotel www.hotel-adlon.de/

Radisson Hotel: www.berlin.radissonsas.com

Savoy Palace hotel: www.hotel-savoy.com

Berlin information: www.berlin-tourist-information.de

German National Tourist Office: In New York, call 1 800 637 1171.

Robert Selwitz is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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