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A Lot to Love Along France's Lot RiverBy Patricia Woeber The Lot River's valleys and gorges dazzle nature lovers with scenic beauty, fascinate history buffs with its rich past, and delight art lovers with ancient art and architecture. The river courses for about 300 miles and spends some time looping its way through the Lot and Aveyron departements (counties) in the Midi-Pyrenees region of southwestern France. Characterized by contrasts between the north and south, the river's banks mingle the cool greens of the highlands with a light that glows with a Mediterranean warmth. Consider an itinerary through a small stretch of this land — following the river's course. From Cahors (located north of Toulouse), drive east to experience a variety of attractions. Picturesque medieval hamlets, villages and towns dot the banks and perch on cliffs. Charming St-Cirq-Lapopie, famous for its picturesque atmosphere and classed among the most beautiful villages of France, stands on a cliff in the bend of the river. Stroll down the flower-bedecked streets amidst medieval homes with enchanting details, where around every corner wild plants cling to old stones in quaint alleyways. Lunch in Auberge du Sombral for tasty dishes such as duck or trout served for starters or main courses. Locals celebrate birthdays, Mother's Day and other special occasions here. In the late 1100s, Richard the Lionhearted (son of Eleanor of Aquitaine and Duke of Aquitaine who led the Third Crusade), thought of as one of the great warrior kings of England, rampaged through this village. His legendary presence continues in British literary classics such as "Robin Hood" and Sir Walter Scott's "Ivanhoe." Farther along the winding Lot River, still in the Lot Valley although now in the Aveyron departement, gorgeous woods, vineyards, pastures and cliffs continue. Drive on east to explore Estaing, a town with 15th to 18th century houses that is also classed as one of the most beautiful villages in France. Since the 15th century, the impressive Chateau d'Estaing (open for tours) has belonged to the powerful family of Valery Giscard d'Estaing, French president from 1974 to 1981. Also visit the Renaissance palace and Saint-Fleuret church with a remarkable carved retable (screen). The town harbors artists and artisans with galleries and workshops, all of whom welcome visitors. Estaing's Maison de la Vigne interests wine lovers as the local wines are prided, not surprising since this distinctive area boasts 35 wineries. Around the town, vineyards blanket several hills, as they have done for centuries. The tourist office touts these Aveyron wines, traditionally produced from the mansois grape. At a bakery in town, taste la Fouace, the delicious local cake. In the hotel-restaurant Auberge St.
In Estaing, the Gothic bridge across the Lot River gives a good view of the town and surrounding landscape of thickly wooded rolling hills. The ancient GR65 pilgrimage route to St-Jacques de Compostela leads through town and over the bridge. Pilgrimages were at their height in the 11th, 12th, and 13th centuries. As a matter of fact, the road itself along the river between and including Estaing and the next town of Espalion and their bridges are classed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites as they are an important part of the GR65 route. In Espalion, the sandstone Eglise de Perse (11th century) was a favorite spot for pilgrims, who found its ambience produced a profound spirituality. Places to tour are the Museum of Scaphandre, Museum of Joseph Vaylet (objects and traditions of the past), Chateau de Calmont, and Abbey de Bonneval. Canoeing and kayaking are available on the river. For a lunch treat at Espalion's Restaurant le Mejane, owners Regine and Philippe Caralp serve gentiane, the typical drink made from the local plant. Their menu lists a tasty amuse bouche of salmon, goat cheese and salad, a main course of grilled breast of duck or trout, and for dessert — depending on the season — a berry and rhubarb tart. Similar to the pilgrims, modern-day travelers are enriched by these towns, which are so gloriously joined by an ancient holy route along a scenic river. Just as in a garden, a path should lead through a series of sensory experiences and that's what happens along the Lot River. IF YOU GO Air France's daily flights go to Paris then connect to Toulouse: www.airfrance.com For budget-priced accommodations in B&Bs and hotels, contact the local tourist offices. Hiking, cycling, fishing, canoeing and kayaking are available in Lot and Aveyron. Saint-Cirq-Lapopie: Restaurant Auberge du Sombral: www.lesombral.com Tourist Office of Estaing: www.ot-espalion.fr: www.nord-aveyron.com; Hotel-Restaurant Auberge St. Fleuret: www@auberge-st-fleuret.com; Domaine d'Armagnac offers a variety of budget accommodations and a fine dinner: www.domaine-armagnac.com Espalion: Restaurant Le Mejane: www.resto.fr/restaurant/espalion/le_mejane/13273 Tourist office of Espalion: www.espalion.fr/en/tourism-france-aveyron The French Government Tourist Office: www.franceguide.com
Patricia Woeber is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com. COPYRIGHT 2009 CREATORS.COM.   
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