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Asia Is a Prime Choice for Intriguing Cruises

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By Robert Selwitz

With news from the cruise industry dominated by megaships, it's refreshing to note that many other options are still alive and well. For those seeking a moderate- sized vessel and itineraries with thought-provoking ports of call, these ships blend the convenience of once-only unpacking with exposure to destinations that appeal to the mind as well as to the eye.

One of the best places to experience such voyages is in Asia. There, a coterie of carriers visit an enticing mix of ports that become easily accessible via passage on comfortable, human-scale ships.

My recent voyage on Holland America's 1407-passenger MS Volendam started in Hong Kong and during the 12-day voyage dropped anchor at Sanya and Hainan Island (the southeastern-most corner of China); Da Nang and Phu My (the port that services Ho Chi Minh City, better known as Saigon), Vietnam; Bangkok and Koh Samui, Thailand; and Sihanoukville, Cambodia, before ending in Singapore.

With the exception of Koh Samui, each port was called directly, with no need for the ship-to-pier tenders that larger vessels require. And though on-land time could be frustratingly short — particularly in Saigon — the chance to sample the culture and cuisine of such widely varied venues made this trip truly memorable. The consolation was that we were able to spend several days exploring Hong Kong prior to departure and Singapore at the conclusion.

Highlights of our four-day Hong Kong sojourn included Victoria Peak; antique-shop-packed Hollywood Road; a fascinating drive circumventing Hong Kong Island; the extraordinary Hong Kong History Museum, one of Asia's best; and consistently fabulous food.

A midnight departure through the spectacularly lit Victoria Harbor morphed into an initial day at sea that provided an excellent opportunity to check out our temporary home afloat. Our comfortable ocean-view cabin contained twin beds made up together as a spacious double, more closet and luggage storage space than we could use, a larger-than-expected modern bathroom (with a retractable clothesline for easy laundering) and a TV/DVD unit that received several cable outlets.

The ship also boasted an Exploration Cafe with 13 computer terminals (100 minutes cost $55), a choice of three restaurants, twice-nightly Las Vegas-style shows, a movie theater showing films three or more times daily, a pool, relatively unobtrusive casino and plenty of retail shops.

Most satisfactory dining was found at the Rotterdam, the main dining location, and the casual buffet-focused Lido. The Volendam also offers the Pinnacle Grill steak house, where, for $20 extra per person, one enjoys superior cuisine with much more attentive and intimate setting and service. In the Pinnacle Grill, as in other outlets, the best choices proved to be the least complex. For instance, beef was consistently excellent while the quality of complicated dishes was more uneven.

Sanya, the major city on China's Hainan Island, was our first stop. A tropical resort town that gets lots of attention from visiting Russians, it proved to be prosperous yet unpredictable. On one side of a main avenue there was a huge department store with a main floor featuring upscale perfumes plus SUVs and other vehicles. On the other, there was a massive daily market selling all manner of intriguing foodstuffs, including bizarre crustaceans and dark-blue chickens.

Sanya also boasted a fine restaurant where a meal for two featuring squid in sweet and sour sauce, a dish with shrimp, cucumbers and bok choy plus two Tsingtao beers cost around $20. Though no English was spoken, the menu had English descriptions.

The following day we docked at Da Nang, one of the largest cities in Vietnam.

Here passengers had three off-ship options. Some opted to stay in the city and visit such sites as the Cham Museum and its often-sensual statues discovered at the nearby ancient capital of My Son. Others opted to explore the former Imperial capital of Hue and its walled citadel. My wife and I joined two other couples and hired a van for an hour-long round-trip drive to Hoi An. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this once-critical trade center, whose power peaked in the 16th and 17th centuries (before silting prevented trading vessels from calling) today is a laid-back gem that features delightful restaurants (don't miss the Mango Rooms), shops and centuries-old structures dating to its years of commercial prosperity.

The next morning we alit at the river port of Phu My, the closest we could get to Saigon. Since getting to and from consumed four of our nine port hours, time pressure was intense. Nevertheless, we managed to see the art nouveau post office, opera house, an art museum and one of many Vietnam War museums as well as have a splendid lunch. Regrettably, time did not permit visiting the must-see Reunification Palace. Back aboard ship, many travelers said this all-too-brief call whetted their taste for a much longer return, a wise move for this constantly fascinating city and country.

Another overnight sail brought the Volendam to Laem Chabang, a major commercial port servicing Bangkok. Our overnight docking allowed us to spend an evening in one of Asia's most dynamic cities. We had arranged to stay overnight at the Pan Pacific Hotel, which is just steps from Bangkok's elevated Skytrain. From here, we were easily able to reach the lovely Jim Thompson home and museum as well as the docks on the boat-packed Chao Phraya River that bisects Bangkok. Our river motor launch took us among the fascinating river klongs or canals, and later we sailed up to the Grand Palace to view the fabulous royal temples.

We even had time for two fabulous meals — one at the elegant Celadon Restaurant in the Sukothai Hotel and the other at Cabbages and Condoms, a moderately priced spot in the Sukhumvit section that serves superb food while actively supporting international family planning efforts.

The ship next called at Koh Samui, Thailand, the only tender port, where we sampled the resort town's shops, then hired a car that took us to several waterfalls and Buddhist wats (temples) as well as a fabulous beachside restaurant. There, during a tropical cloudburst, we feasted on tiger prawns in tamarind sauce and catfish with green mango salad.

A call at Cambodia's prime port of Sihanoukville, featuring a bustling and frenetic marketplace, preceded our entry into Singapore. Singapore has wonderful museums; intriguing Indian, Chinese and Malay neighborhoods; and the Newton Food Center, where, at a picnic table near stall 46 (out of 83), we devoured one of Singapore's signature dishes, a massive chili crab that washed down with local Singapore beers. Few dining experiences are worth flying halfway around the world for, but this one was.

IF YOU GO

Holland America Line: www.hollandamerica.com

Cathay Pacific Airways: www.cathaypacific.com

Hong Kong Tourism: www.discoverhongkong.com

Hotel InterContinental: www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com

Hotel Langham: www.hongkong.langhamhotels.com

Pan Pacific Hotel Bangkok: www.panpacific.com/Bangkok

Pan Pacific Hotel Singapore: www.panpacific.com/Singapore

Singapore Tourism: www.visitsingapore.com

Robert Selwitz is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

COPYRIGHT 2010 CREATORS.COM



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