By Sharon Whitley Larsen

NATCHITOCHES, La. — Even Oprah's a fan of this charming, picturesque, Southern town.

Several years ago on her show, an audience member named Peggy Plunkett stood up and proclaimed, "Oprah, everyone in Natchitoches loves you! You should come visit!'

And next thing you know, Oprah did just that, flying into this small town to surprise the residents — even participating in their Northwestern State University Homecoming Parade.

It's certainly not every day that an international star swoops down to visit Natchitoches (pronounced Nak-a-tish), named for the Natchitoches Indians who once resided in the area. Yet today, with a population of some 18,000, it boasts around 1 million annual visitors. Besides Oprah's visit, several films have put it on the map, including the award-winning 1989 "Steel Magnolias,' which was based on the life of a real family in town and filmed here. In the movie, the town was called "Chinquapin.'

Natchitoches, the oldest permanent settlement in the Louisiana Purchase, is even older than New Orleans and reportedly the third oldest town in the U.S. In 2005 the National Trust designated Natchitoches as one of the "Dozen Distinctive Destinations" for Historic Preservation. And in 2007 Natchitoches was given a Preserve America Presidential Award. The Cane River Lake runs along the town's historic, original brick-paved Front Street, which has been named a National Historic Landmark.

It was founded in 1714 by a French Canadian, Louis Juchereau de St. Denis, who stopped here while on a trade mission to Mexico. Natchitoches became the westernmost outpost of the French Colonial Empire, and was greatly spared during the Civil War. Home to the Cane River National Heritage Area, it includes authentic colonial and pre-Civil War architecture, as well as the largest collection of Creole architecture in North America. The area continues to host a blend of cultures, including French, Spanish, African, American Indian, and Creole.

It was once believed that Natchitoches meant "chinquapin eater' — a name dubbed by French explorers for the Caddo Indians who had lived here for generations. (It hails from the chinquapin tree, which is similar to a chestnut.) But according to "The Indian Tribes of North America' by John R. Swanton, Natchitoches "is generally supposed to be derived from 'nashitosh,' the native word for pawpaw. But an early Spanish writer, Jose Antonio Pichardo, was told that it was from a native word 'nacicit' signifying 'a place where the soil is the color of red ochre.'''

I first visited Natchitoches was in 1990, shortly after "Steel Magnolias' had premiered. I was touched by the charm of the European-style, 18th and 19th century buildings with wrought-iron balconies, which reminded me of a miniature New Orleans. I loved the historic B&Bs — after all, this is the Bed and Breakfast Capital of Louisiana — and delicious meat pies. And the friendly people. As well as the streets lined with massive oak trees — and, of course, magnolias.

"This would be the ideal place to retire," I remember thinking back then. In fact, during the past decade it's been named a top retirement area by several major publications, including U.S. News and World Report.

I didn't retire here, but while on a recent business trip to Dallas, my husband Carl surprised me with an idea: "Why not drive down to Natchitoches?"

Although it was rather last minute — and a bit of a drive for a holiday weekend — we were luckily able to book a room for two nights at the charmingly romantic, Victorian-style Queen Anne Bed and Breakfast, elegantly furnished with antiques that reminded me of "Gone With the Wind." We were so pampered by innkeeper Charles LaCaze Jr. — who spoiled us not only with his charming Southern hospitality, but also with his fabulous, gourmet breakfasts in the formal dining room — that I never wanted to leave. I truly felt like Scarlett O'Hara. On our last day, I begged Carl to let me spend "just 10 more minutes" on the upstairs verandah, simply relaxing in the wicker rocking chair as I watched the lucky people who lived here stroll by on the quiet street.

For such a small town, there certainly seems to be plenty to see and do, including visiting plantation homes and even the nearby Alligator Park. Annual activities include the Meat Pie Festival, Jazz and Rhythm and Blues Festival — and the popular Christmas Festival of Lights, one of the country's oldest community holiday celebrations, which started in 1927. Over 100,000 visit the town during the festival, which swells to a half-million for various other Christmas season activities, including holiday home tours. The Christmas Festival of Lights includes a parade, entertainment, food fairs, arts and crafts booths, and massive fireworks over the Cane River Lake.

You might recall this colorful holiday scene in "Steel Magnolias,' which featured Julia Roberts (as Shelby), Shirley MacLaine, Olympia Dukakis, Dolly Parton, Sally Field, and Daryl Hannah, who all lived in town during the summer of 1988 for filming. In fact, the self-guided Steel Magnolias tour is popular (information and maps available at the tourist office) — especially this year, which marks the movie's 20th anniversary. Fans can see sites such as the Henry Cook Taylor home at 320 Jefferson — today the Steel Magnolias B&B — where the wedding reception was filmed.

There's also the historic Lemee House, at 310 Jefferson, used as the residence of eccentric, crotchety Ouiser, played by Shirley MacLaine, who uttered the famous line: "I'm not crazy; I've just been in a bad mood for 40 years!" Other film sites include the historic American Cemetery, scene of Shelby's burial; and the Riverfront, site of the Easter egg hunt.

The movie was written by Robert Harling, who moved here while a teen (and who first wrote it as an Off-Broadway play), based on a true story about his sister Susan, who died at 31 in 1985, and who was played by Julia Roberts. Numerous townsfolk worked as extras in the film, including Harling, who played the minister in the wedding scene.

Other movies filmed in Natchitoches include 1959's "The Horse Soldiers'" with John Wayne, Constance Towers, and William Holden; and 1991's "The Man in the Moon" with Reese Witherspoon, Tess Harper, and Sam Waterston.

Today, there's a Walk of Fame on the corner of Second Street and Rue St. Denis, celebrating various celebrities who have a connection with the town, including film and sports stars.

Oh, and about those meat pies: They are reportedly derived from recipes collected by slaves who worked in various plantation kitchens. The meat pies originate from the Spanish period influenced by the local Indian culture. They look like turnovers and contain a highly seasoned mixture of pork and beef. In the old days street vendors would call out, "Hott-ta-meat pies! Red-d-d hot!' There are a few places in town that sell them, especially Lasyone's Meat Pie Restaurant — slogan: Home of the Famous Natchitoches Meat Pie — at 622 Second St. Several restaurants in town offer a variety of Southern cuisine, including fried catfish, jambalaya, crawfish etouffee — from Cajun to Creole.

As Shirley MacLaine commented during the filming of "Steel Magnolias": "There's a sociability here, an ambience. Natchitoches is a rich, pretty little place. It's unbelievably friendly.'

And, as Oprah summed up: "I'm going to tell people all over the U.S. about the spirit of the people here. It's the best little town in the whole U.S.A.!'

IF YOU GO

For more information, please visit:

— Natchitoches Convention and Visitors Bureau; www.natchitoches.net

Christmas Festival: Nov. 21, 2009-Jan. 6, 2010; www.christmasfestival.com.

— Meat Pie Festival: www.meatpiefestival.com

— Natchitoches Jazz/R&B Festival: www.natchjazzfest.com

— www.caneriverheritage.org

— Steel Magnolia House B&B: www.steelmagnoliahouse.com

— Queen Anne B&B: www.queenannebandb.com

— Lasyone's Meat Pies: www.lasyones.com

— Alligator Park: www.alligatorpark.net

Sharon Whitley Larsen is a freelance travel writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.