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Avoid Typical Electrical Wiring Errors
Dear Pat: I just had a new two-car garage built, and I am remodeling the old one-car garage into a family room. I plan to do some of the wiring myself. What are some of the common wiring mistakes I should avoid? — Karen S.
Dear Karen: If you …Read more.
Add a New Front Door in the Old Doorjamb
Dear Pat: My wood front door needs to be replaced, but I want to save some money and not remove the entire frame and jamb. What is the best way to install a new wood front door in the existing door frame? — Sissy M.
Dear Sissy: The door itself …Read more.
Remove and Replace a Damaged Ceramic Tile From a Floor
Dear Pat: We have large ceramic tiles on the floor in our foyer. One of them has gotten badly scratched, and I need to replace it. What is the proper procedure to remove and replace one without damaging the other tiles? — Ronda S.
Dear Ronda: …Read more.
How to Properly Install a Leak-free Roof
Dear Pat: I am having a major room addition to my house. In my past two houses, the shingle roofs leaked prematurely. What should I look for and discuss with the roofers to make sure this roof lasts longer? — Sandi M.
Dear Sandi: Most roofs …Read more.
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Make Your Own Custom Concrete CountertopDear Pat: My vanity countertop and sink need to be replaced. I thought about making a custom colored concrete one myself. If it goes well, I will try it for the kitchen. What are the basic steps for this project? — Jacquie H. Dear Jacquie: Concrete countertops are becoming much more popular in bathrooms and kitchens in today's homes. Concrete is a reasonably priced, readily available, environmentally friendly material. Since it is formed in a mold, unique custom shapes and styles are possible. As you mentioned, it would be wise to start with the bathroom vanity for experience and then try the larger kitchen countertop. Making a concrete countertop is not a difficult project, but it will take a little practice and a lot of initial research to do it properly. The basic construction concept is fairly simple, but mixing and working with the wet concrete is often more of an art than a science. The first step is to design the shape of the new vanity top. Try to keep it as simple as possible, since this will be your first attempt at making a concrete countertop. Plan on forming the bowl with concrete so it is an integral part with the vanity top. This looks nice and eliminates the possibility of leaks and dirty joints and seals. You will need a strong table at least the size of the vanity top. Even a small vanity top can be quite heavy when it's made from thick concrete. Braces for the sides of the form can be screwed into the wooden top, so the table top will be ruined unless you first place a piece of plywood over it.
The basic form for the vanity top is made from 3/4-inch melamine. This material is relatively easy to cut to size and to work with. Its surface is smooth, so the top and sides of the concrete vanity will also be smooth when the form is removed. Support the outside of the melamine side pieces with 2x4 lumber and then screw braces into the tabletop. Making the form for the sink recess is a bit trickier. Build a simple rectangular tapered design with the deepest area near the back underneath the faucet. Glue a piece of PVC pipe to the sink recess form to create a hole for the drainpipe when the concrete is poured. Addition small side forms will be needed around the recess to create the proper concrete thickness. The final preparation step is to make a rebar (reinforcing steel rod) cage to be embedded in the concrete. Concrete is very strong in compression, but it needs steel reinforcement when spanning a vanity. Use steel wire to connect the rebar piece together into a cage. Mix and color the concrete to be poured into the vanity top form. A typical mixing ratio is three parts of white sand, 1-1/2 parts of 3/8-inch gravel and 1-1/4 parts of type-1 Portland cement. Adding a water reducer and plasticizer can make the wet concrete flow better. Use a vibrator to make the concrete flow into all the corners. When the concrete is set, remove the forms. Lightly grind the surface with an abrasive pad to expose tiny bubbles. Fill them with a thin coat of colored concrete and acrylic bonder. Apply sealer and a coat of wax. Send your questions to Here's How, 6906 Royalgreen Dr., Cincinnati, OH 45244 or visit www.dulley.com. To find out more about Pat Logan and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com. COPYRIGHT 2013 CREATORS.COM ![]()
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