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Avoid Typical Electrical Wiring Errors Dear Pat: I just had a new two-car garage built, and I am remodeling the old one-car garage into a family room. I plan to do some of the wiring myself. What are some of the common wiring mistakes I should avoid? — Karen S. Dear Karen: If you …Read more. Add a New Front Door in the Old Doorjamb Dear Pat: My wood front door needs to be replaced, but I want to save some money and not remove the entire frame and jamb. What is the best way to install a new wood front door in the existing door frame? — Sissy M. Dear Sissy: The door itself …Read more. Remove and Replace a Damaged Ceramic Tile From a Floor Dear Pat: We have large ceramic tiles on the floor in our foyer. One of them has gotten badly scratched, and I need to replace it. What is the proper procedure to remove and replace one without damaging the other tiles? — Ronda S. Dear Ronda: …Read more. How to Properly Install a Leak-free Roof Dear Pat: I am having a major room addition to my house. In my past two houses, the shingle roofs leaked prematurely. What should I look for and discuss with the roofers to make sure this roof lasts longer? — Sandi M. Dear Sandi: Most roofs …Read more.
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Install an Outdoor Sillcock Properly

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Dear Pat: I have a small weekend cabin in the mountains that I use year-round. Instead of draining the sillcocks during winter, I want to install freeze-free ones. What type is best, and how do I install them? — Janice K.

Dear Janice: Sillcocks, outdoor faucets through a wall, can create a problem in freezing cold weather. The valve for the faucet is actually outside the insulated house walls, and the pipes are filled with water up to the valve.

When the outdoor temperature falls below freezing, the metal faucet and pipe temperature can also easily get below the freezing point of water. When water freezes, it expands. Depending upon how it freezes, the expanding ice can split the pipe open or damage the faucet. Often, it won't start to leak water until it gets warmer and the ice thaws.

You have two options to eliminate the possibility of freezing the sillcocks. Installing a freeze-free sillcock is effective, and it does not require you to do anything at the beginning of winter. If you do need some water quickly outdoors on a warmer winter day, you just turn on the faucet as usual.

The other option is to install an indoor valve and drain cap by each sillcock. At the beginning of winter, you must turn off the valve, remove the drain plug, and drain the water from the faucet side. This method is very effective, but it does not allow you to use the outdoor faucet quickly.

All of the freeze-free sillcocks are made in a similar manner. There is a long pipe onto which the faucet is attached. The faucet handle is attached to a long rod inside the pipe.

The actual valve is on the end of the long rod, so there is no standing water in the uninsulated outdoor portion of the pipe when no water is flowing.

The lengths of freeze-free sillcocks typically range from about 8 to 14 inches, with 10 or 12 inches being more common. The proper length to select depends upon the thickness of the wall and the indoor clearance behind it. Since you are installing the sillcock in a cabin that is used only on weekends, select an inexpensive one. You will likely not use it enough to wear it out.

All freeze-free sillcocks have a male threaded end. Copper threaded female adapters are available to fit the sillcock. The adapter is soldered on to the one-half-inch copper plumbing pipe, and the sillcock end is screwed into it. This makes replacing the sillcock a simple task, but getting the threads to seal can be a bit tricky. Use Teflon tape or plumber's dope on the threads.

The inside diameter of the sillcock pipe is made of copper and sized to fit perfectly over the outside of standard copper plumbing. The sillcock can be soldered directly to the plumbing. This installation is actually the best, and most professional plumbers use it. A good solder joint is very strong and will not leak.

Here are a few installation tips that may help. If you solder the sillcock directly to the plumbing, first remove the internal rubber seals so the heat does not damage them. Make sure there is no water dripping from the pipe. This cools it, and you will never get the solder to melt. Use flux on the pipe ends.

Send your questions to Here's How, 6906 Royalgreen Dr., Cincinnati, OH 45244 or visit www.dulley.com. To find out more about Pat Logan and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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