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Well-Educated Chef/Author is a Tasty Tour Guide to Chocolate's History"The New Taste of Chocolate" by Maricel E. Presilla (Ten Speed, $35) It's hard to imagine a more delicious history lesson. Culinary historian/chef Maricel Presilla — who has a doctorate after studying medieval Spanish history in Spain and is a formally trained cultural anthropologist — turns her attention to chocolate in her revised edition of "The New Taste of Chocolate: A Cultural and Natural History of Cacao with Recipes." Cacao are the seeds (also called beans) of the tropical evergreen cacao tree, from which chocolate is produced. In her meticulous and fascinating history of cacao, Presilla takes us back centuries, including to the first known recipes for chocolate itself: like the custom blend of soconusco, maracaybo and caracas beans suggested in an early Mexican cookbook. Presilla is outstanding at creating excitement, whether over early trading wars or scientific breakthroughs, such as cacao genetics, which sounds like it is straight out of a high-tech spy movie. By the time you finish the book, you'll be well-versed in the fruitiness of some strains versus the astringency and bitterness of others. Color photographs pepper the book, stretching the tastiness into a visual, as well as an intellectual treat. Presilla's unparalleled collection of recipes make the book even more of a delicacy, especially since some similar culinary historical reads don't go the distance to unearth actual recipes and facts. The rich history of chocolate around the world comes to life as vividly in the recipes — like rum-coconut-cashew brownies from Venezuela, the classic Caribbean snack of chocolate- and nut-covered deep-fried plantain chips and an unforgettable Yucatecan Days of the Dead hot chocolate filled with cinnamon and allspice and thickened by masa — as it does in the sparkling text. YUCATECAN DAYS OF THE DEAD HOT CHOCOLATE 8 cups water or milk 6 (3-inch) sticks true cinnamon (such as soft Ceylon cinnamon, sold as canela in Hispanic markets) 2 tablespoons allspice berries 3/4 cup sugar 1/8 teaspoon salt 1/2 to 3/4 cup commercial dried masa, preferably Maseca brand 2 cups cold water 6 ounces dark chocolate, preferably Askinosie Soconusco (75 percent cacao), coarsely chopped Yields 8 servings. Combine the milk in a medium saucepan with the cinnamon, allspice, sugar and salt.
In a small bowl, combine the masa and water and stir well to dissolve any lumps. Stir the mixture into the milk and simmer, stirring, until it coats the back of a spoon lightly about 10 minutes. Add the chocolate and simmer, stirring, until it is completely dissolved and the liquid is as thick as a light porridge, about 5 to 10 minutes. Strain the mixture into a serving pitcher. Serve at once, piping hot. CACAO-CHILE SALT 2 tablespoons dried piquin or other chiles (see Note) 1 cup (about 4 1/2 ounces) cacao nibs 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt, or to taste Yields about 1 cup. Heat a heavy-bottomed skillet, griddle or comal over medium-high heat. Add chiles and toast for a few seconds to char a little. Transfer to a small bowl. Add the cacao nibs to the pan and toast, stirring, until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Transfer the toasted cacao nibs to the bowl with the chiles and toss with the salt. Let cool slightly. Working in batches, grind the mixture to a fine powder in a coffee or spice mill. Pass through a medium-mesh strainer or sieve while stirring with a wooden spoon to break up any lumps. Store in a lidded jar and keep in a cool place. This makes a simple yet terrific condiment for any food, from quick seafood stir-fries to long-simmering stews. Note: These dried chilies are often available in Mexican markets, sometimes also by the name of chiltepe, chiltepin or pequin. When handling chilies or chile products, experts recommend wearing rubber gloves and not touching your eyes during or afterward.
Lisa Messinger is a first-place winner in food writing from the Association of Food Journalists and the author of seven food books, including "Mrs. Cubbison's Best Stuffing Cookbook" and "The Sourdough Bread Bowl Cookbook." She also writes the Creators News Service "After-Work Gourmet" column. To find out more about Lisa Messinger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com. COPYRIGHT 2009 CREATORS.COM 
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