Cooks' Books by Lisa Messinger

"The Pleasures of Cooking for One" by Judith Jones (Knopf, $27.95)

It's probably a good bet that Judith Jones rarely needed to cook for one. After all, this famed cookbook editor wasn't only a winner of a rare James Beard Foundation Lifetime Achievement Award, but also Beard's personal editor, who broke bread with him many times. Not to mention, Julia Child, who Jones, as senior editor and vice president of Knopf publishing imprint, also edited and dined with on countless occasions.

However, dear friends and colleagues like Beard and Child are now gone, as is her late husband, writer Evan Jones, with whom she co-authored three cookbooks. Jones still has a busy calendar, but also knows from where she speaks when she writes about the pleasures of cooking for one.

Jones' tips and writing are just as brilliant as the editing for which she has always been cherished. She has lots of good reasons why you should relish cooking for yourself (and points out that more than 50 percent of the population of some cities lives alone, although supermarkets and restaurants rarely cater to them). You'll probably be chomping at the bit to get started after reading her encouragement.

There is no one else's taste buds to consider. This breeds experimentation and innovation. You can scour the farmers' market and buy everything to your heart's content that would have turned off others for whom you might have previously cooked.

There is no fear of failure. Go out on a limb without any anxiety.

"Cooking for yourself is particularly creative," she writes, "because you are inspired by what's in your fridge or freezer or garden or nearby market. You don't have to follow a recipe slavishly; you can substitute as you like — planning how to make three quite different dishes from, say, a tenderloin of pork — putting leftovers to good use, taking advantage of leftovers, having in the freezer certain basic items, and so on."

In these times, no small feat, you can save money by cooking small batches and utilizing leftovers to the max.

Enough reasons to make going solo, even on Valentine's Day, a treat? Maybe if you consider some of Jones' innovative, plush pleasures.

Her fillet of flounder, salmon, red snapper or other fish in parchment surrounded by colorful vegetables is like a gift-wrapped package to yourself. Her lobster bisque is creamy and elegant. Veal kidneys in Dijon mustard are like from a fine restaurant. Even Jones' easy steamed eggs nestled in a bed of tender greens (such as a combination of Swiss chard and beet greens) are fantastic.

And Jones wasn't joshing; her leftovers are out of this world and will make you cherish the next solo meals. Once you make skirt steak that's been rubbed with fresh ginger and garlic, for instance, the "Second Round" — as Jones refers to innovative leftovers recipes — is to drape slices over cucumbers and tomatoes and drizzle it with Gribiche, a sauce she first tried at a little brasserie on the rue de Seine in Paris.

Her Snapper with Fennel, Scallions and Red Pepper is great, but the next day is a highlight, too, when the fish is cut into bite-sized pieces, surrounded by cucumbers, tomatoes, olives, hard-boiled eggs and greens and dressed with a chilled "Winter Green Sauce" (scallions, fennel and parsley).

"I've talked to so many live-alones who have been too busy with their careers, but who like good food and have gradually come to feel that they've been missing something," Jones says.

The talented cook's creations and advice just may be the lost pieces to that puzzle.

STUFFED PORTOBELLO

1 large portobello mushroom, about 4 1/2 inches in diameter

2 tablespoons butter

1 garlic clove, peeled and slivered

Salt, to taste

Freshly ground pepper, to taste

1 heaping tablespoon total mixed or singly of chopped fresh parsley, chives, tarragon leaves, or sage

1 heaping tablespoon crumbled cooked sausage, chopped ham, crumbled cooked bacon or shredded prosciutto

Olive oil, to taste

1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs

Yields 1 serving.

Cut the stem from the mushroom and trim off any tough part. Wipe off dirt with a damp towel, and chop the stem into small dice.

Melt butter in a small skillet, and saute the garlic and diced mushroom stem gently for about 5 minutes to soften. Season with salt and pepper and fold in the herbs and meat.

Rub a little olive oil all over the mushroom cap and season with salt and pepper. Spoon the stuffing into the saucerlike gill side of the mushroom, tucking it in all around and mounding it in the center. Sprinkle the bread crumbs on top. Place on a shallow baking dish in a preheated 350 F oven for 30 minutes, at which point the top should be browned and crispy.

Just because you are dining solo, don't forego little touches like gourmet condiments. This blue cheese dressing is easy to prepare and distinctive.

HONEY BLUE CHEESE DRESSING

1 1/2 tablespoons yogurt

1 1/2 tablespoons mashed blue cheese

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 teaspoons white-wine vinegar or rice vinegar

1/8 teaspoon honey

Salt, to taste

Yields 2 servings.

Mix everything together in a small bottle, cover tightly, and shake until it is well mixed. Taste, and adjust seasonings to your liking.

Lisa Messinger is a first-place winner in food writing from the Association of Food Journalists and the author of seven food books, including "Mrs. Cubbison's Best Stuffing Cookbook" and "The Sourdough Bread Bowl Cookbook." She also writes the Creators News Service "After-Work Gourmet" column. To find out more about Lisa Messinger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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