Cooks' Books by Lisa Messinger

"Julia's Kitchen Wisdom: Essential Techniques and Recipes from a Lifetime of Cooking" By Julia Child with David Nussbaum (Knopf, $14.95).

Soon, legendary TV cooking instructor Julia Child may be forever linked in the mind of moviegoers with Oscar-winning actress Meryl Streep. Streep has taken on the tall, famously high-pitched-voiced late cookbook author as her next study in "Julie & Julia," a film that links Child's life story with that of Julie Powell. In 2004, Powell became the first Internet blogger to take on all of the 524 recipes in Child's 1961 classic "Mastering the Art of French Cooking." A year later, the adventure that took place in a "tiny apartment kitchen" also became a best-selling book.

Child is famous for the rumor that she dropped a chicken on the floor during the making of her PBS cooking television series, nonchalantly picked it up and continued to cook with it. Powell, too, who was not a professional chef or particularly accomplished home cook, had many such mishaps. With the strategic republishing of Child's "Julia's Kitchen Wisdom: Essential Techniques and Recipes from a Lifetime of Cooking," it's the hope of Child's longtime publisher that that you will sail through your culinary life relatively disaster free.

Essentially, the book is many of Child's best recipes distilled down to their most simple forms, almost like they are packaged in paragraph form for the fast-paced Internet age. As the book moves through categories of food — sauces, soups, salads, vegetables, meats, poultry, fish, eggs, breads, cakes and cookies — there are lots of helpful charts, tips and instructions. It's similar to having a trusted relative, who is a sage cook, hovering over your shoulder in the kitchen and whispering advice.

About hollandaise sauce: "If you have added the butter too fast for the egg yolks to digest it, or if you've kept the sauce over heat too long, it can thin out or separate. To bring it back to its creamy state, whisk it briefly to blend and dip a tablespoonful into a bowl. Whisk in a tablespoon of lemon juice and whisk vigorously until creamy. Then whisk in very little dribbles of the turned sauce at first, not adding more until the previous addition has creamed and the sauce begins to reconstitute."

About souffles: "When is the souffle done? If it has a collar, rapidly release it just a bit to check — if the puff sags, refasten the collar and bake a few minutes more. When a skewer is plunged down into the side of the puff and comes out with a few particles clinging, the souffle will be deliciously creamy inside but will not hold up long. If the skewer comes out clean, it will hold up a little longer."

About scrambled eggs: "We so often think of scrambled eggs served only with bacon or sausage for an everyday breakfast, but they make a fine fancy breakfast or even luncheon dish with baked tomatoes, sauteed potatoes, asparagus tips and all manner of garnishes. Scrambled eggs are also good cold ...

but I don't think these do well when mixed up with other things. I like them to stand alone and be garnished on the side." Example: "Season the just-scrambled eggs with chopped fresh dill, chill and serve with smoked salmon."

Much more than sophisticated, old-fashioned food, there are plenty of easy recipes and tips that will help the modern time-pressed cook fit homemade fare with flair into a busy schedule, such as placing a piece of pork fat or bacon over meat when roasting to protect it and flavor it, creating your own herb bouquets and offering ideas for leftovers. Master recipes throughout are also treasures, like this delicious vinaigrette that can be morphed into many easy variations.

BASIC VINAIGRETTE DRESSING

1/2 tablespoon finely minced shallot or scallion

1/2 tablespoon Dijon-type mustard

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1/2 tablespoon wine vinegar

1/3 to 1/2 cup excellent olive oil, or other fine, fresh oil

Freshly ground pepper, to taste

Yields about 2/3 cup, about 6 to 8 servings.

Either shake all the ingredients together in a screw-topped jar or mix them individually as follows. Stir the shallots or scallions together with the mustard and salt. Whisk in the lemon juice and vinegar, and when well blended, start whisking in the oil by droplets to form a smooth emulsion. Beat in freshly ground pepper. Taste (dip a piece of the salad greens into the sauce) and correct seasoning with salt, pepper and/or drops of lemon juice.

To serve and store: Vinaigrette is always at its freshest and best when served promptly, but you can cover it airtight and refrigerate it for two days. The shallots and fresh lemon will eventually go off, spoiling the taste of the dressing.

Roquefort variation: Crumble about 1/3 cup of Roquefort cheese and stir into the 2/3 cup of vinaigrette — or use whatever proportions you wish. Excellent served over halved or quartered romaine hearts.

Herb variation: Mince fresh herbs such as parsley, chives, chervil, tarragon, basil and/or dill and whisk into the finished dressing.

Here's an example of the narrative way Child presents most of the recipes in the book:

CREAMED LOBSTER, CRAB OR SHRIMP OMELET FILLING

For about 1 cup, enough to fill or garnish 4 to 6 omelets. Briefly saute 1 tablespoon finely minced shallots in 2 tablespoons butter until softened, then fold in 1 cup cooked shellfish meat cut into 1/4-inch pieces. When well warmed through, season lightly with salt and pepper and boil for a minute or two with 2 tablespoons dry white French vermouth, then briefly with 1/2 cup heavy cream, until nicely thickened. Correct seasoning, and, if you wish, fold in a sprinkling of minced fresh parsley.

Lisa Messinger is a first-place winner in food writing from the Association of Food Journalists and the author of seven food books, including "Mrs. Cubbison's Best Stuffing Cookbook" and "The Sourdough Bread Bowl Cookbook." She also writes the Creators News Service "After-Work Gourmet" column. To find out more about Lisa Messinger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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