Cooks' Books by Lisa Messinger

"Bite by Bite: 100 Stylish Little Plates You Can Make for Any Party" by Peter Callahan with Raquel Pelzel (Clarkson Potter, $35).

Some of Peter Callahan's biggest achievements are his smallest. The New York City caterer, who is a favorite among movers and shakers like Vera Wang, Valentino, Tony Bennett, Al Gore and Martha Stewart — and who also penned the foreword to his book — is widely credited with setting the fire underneath the currently blazing trend of mini hors d'oeuvres.

Both the recipes and color photographs in his first cookbook show why he earned his cult following. He creates twin mini versions of popular dishes, such as traditional comfort foods, rich desserts and chic cocktails. He even throws in innovative twists along the way.

For instance, his tiny cheesesteaks in fluffy buns are prepared with sushi-grade tuna. Vegetable lasagnas look like tiny, multi-layered versions of the usual preparation, but they are served atop bite-sized fried lasagna chips. Mac 'n' cheese is also served as a canape. Many cookies and cakes are served on sticks as single-serving lollipops.

Multiple menus for holiday and other themed parties show how well the ingenious nuggets combine.

This type of cute cooking and presentation will have you utilizing all kinds of dishes that may usually be dormant in the back of your cupboards — or other parts of your home. Soups are served in cups only slightly bigger than thimbles. Shot glasses are put into lots of play.

More often than not, you'll be crafting your servers yourself. They could be edible, like making different cones, such as those made from potatoes, plantains or paper-thin sandwich bread. You could serve on them "fluffernutters" (sugary, peanut butter-marshmallow sandwiches) that look like double-dip ice cream cones.

Or it may be some of the decorative, custom trays you prepare according to the many tips that accompany Callahan's gourmet recipes.

Except for a few recipes that can be made in a snap, these are, in fact, advanced recipes that take a lot of time and effort to reap their "small" rewards.

 

LIMONCELLO ICE POPS

1 / 4 cup sugar

1 cup fresh lemon juice (from about 4 lemons)

1 / 3 cup fresh orange juice (from about 1 orange)

1 / 2 cup limoncello liqueur

24 (3-by-3 / 8-inch) ice pop-type sticks

Yields 2 dozen mini ice pops.

In a small saucepan, bring 1 / 4 cup water and the sugar to a boil, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar.

Turn off the heat and set aside to cool.

Pour the cooled simple syrup you've prepared above, lemon juice, orange juice and limoncello into a pitcher and stir to combine. Pour the mixture into a mini ice pop-type mold or two ice cube trays (fill the cubes three-quarters full). Freeze until the liquid is partially frozen, about 2 hours, and then insert the ice pop-type sticks. Freeze until fully frozen, about 1 hour longer.

Carefully remove the ice pops from the molds and place them on a platter, or stand them up in a block of Styrofoam and serve immediately.

If you want to prepare ahead: The ice pops can be frozen up to 2 weeks in advance.

Serving suggestion for ice pop serving tray: Make your own ice pop serving tray using a 2-inch-thick rectangular block of Styrofoam. Wrap the block with decorative paper (make sure the seam is on the bottom). Then, using a sharp paring knife, make 1 / 2-inch-long and 1-inch-deep slits in the block. Wedge the ice pop sticks into the slits to serve upright.

 

CAMEMBERT AND CHARDONNAY

2 semi-ripe pears, preferably Bosc

1 lemon wedge

4 ounces cold Camembert cheese (see note)

2 fresh thyme sprigs

32 pieces minced red bell pepper

1 bottle crisp Chardonnay

Yields 32 mini appetizers.

Stand each pear on a cutting board, and using a paring knife, carefully cut down around the core so you end up with 4 pieces of pear and a square-shaped core. Slice the pear wedges into 1 / 8-inch-thick pieces (until you have 32 slices) and squeeze a little lemon juice over them to delay browning. Place the slices on a paper towel to absorb the extra moisture.

Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Slice the cheese into 32 (1-inch-long), 1 / 4-inch-thick rectangles. Remove the rind if desired, and place on the prepared baking sheet.

Arrange the pear slices on a tray or platter. Top each with a piece of Camembert, a few thyme leaves and a piece of minced red bell pepper. Pour the chilled wine into shot glasses (or cordial glasses) and serve immediately.

Note: For well-shaped Camembert slivers, freeze the cheese for 1 hour before slicing. Let the sliced cheese sit out at room temperature for 10 to 20 minutes (depending on the temperature of the room) before serving.

Lisa Messinger is a first-place winner in food writing from the Association of Food Journalists and the author of seven food books, including "Mrs. Cubbison's Best Stuffing Cookbook" and "The Sourdough Bread Bowl Cookbook." She also writes the Creators News Service "After-Work Gourmet" column. To find out more about Lisa Messinger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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