Cooking Corner by Various Authors

By Caroline Dipping

It's tamale time in Mexico. The season began Saturday with the feast day of the Virgin of Guadalupe, that country's patron saint, and carries through the eight-night celebration of Las Posadas, which begins tonight.

And no Christmas or New Year party — south of the border or in Latino homes here, for that matter — would be complete without tamales.

The tamale has been recorded as early as 5000 B.C. in pre-Columbian history. Its association as a Christmas dish seems to have cropped up about three centuries ago.

Since the 1900s, tamales have become known and loved by all cultures, said Katherine Emmenegger, who has been teaching tamale-making for five years at Great News! Cooking School in Pacific Beach, Calif. Through the years, she said, the most common varieties of tamales have emerged as red and green chili, chicken, pork, beef, sweet, cheese and vegetables.

Because they are labor- and time-intensive to make, tamales have long been relegated to holiday fare, Emmenegger said.

"So many people want to make tamales that taste like what their grandmothers used to make," Emmenegger said. "The traditional way is a very long process, with the women of the family working together to make the sauces and meats, preparing the masa, and finally assembling and wrapping the tamales before steaming them in large pots.

"The process could take all day, the preparation often starting one or two days in advance," she said. "It is virtually unheard of to make a few tamales."

Undaunted, Emmenegger has streamlined the tamale-making process and shares many tips for making them.

MASA (TAMALE DOUGH)

4 cups packed masa, such as Maseca Para Tamales

1 tablespoon baking powder

2 teaspoons salt

4 cups liquid (beef, chicken or vegetable broth, or fruit juice. If making dessert masa, use liqueur or other sweet liquid.)

1 1Ú3 cups vegetable shortening or lard

Makes enough for about 36 tamales

In a deep bowl, combine the masa, baking powder and salt. Pour the broth or other liquid into the masa a little at a time, working it in with your fingers.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, whip the vegetable shortening or lard until fluffy; add the masa and combine until just mixed.

TRADITIONAL SPICY SHREDDED BEEF TAMALES

BEEF

4 pounds beef shoulder, rinsed and dried

Salt to taste

Pepper to taste

Chili powder to taste

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

2 large yellow onions, peeled and julienne

3 garlic cloves, crushed

3 cups vegetable broth

SAUCE

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 large yellow onion, peeled and diced small

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 (28-ounce) can tomato puree

2 tablespoons ground cumin or to taste

3 tablespoons ancho chili powder or to taste

1 tablespoons dry oregano, crumbled or to taste

Salt to taste

Cayenne pepper to taste

Makes 3 dozen tamales

For the beef: Season the beef with the salt, pepper and chili powder.

In a large pot over medium heat, heat the oil and brown the beef on all sides.

Move the meat to a platter. Add the onions and garlic and saute until translucent. Return meat to the pot; cover and braise until the meat is fork tender, about two to three hours.

Transfer the meat to a platter to cool, reserve the stock. Shred the meat, and set aside.

Strain the stock and reserve the onions and garlic; discard the liquid.

For the sauce: In the same pot used for the beef, over medium heat, heat the oil and saute the onions and garlic for three to four minutes. Add the tomato puree, cumin, ancho chili powder, oregano, and reserved onions and garlic from the stock. Simmer for 20 minutes. Adjust the seasoning with salt and cayenne pepper.

Cool and combine the sauce with the shredded beef.

TAMALE ASSEMBLY

Whether you throw a tamalada (tamale-making party) or tackle the project solo, there are some techniques to streamline assembly and steaming. Cooking instructor and tamale maker Katherine Emmenegger offers these suggestions:

Outerwear: You will need two bags of dried corn husks to make about 3 dozen tamales. Use the largest husks. Soak husks in hot water for 1 hour. Remove any corn silk, rinse and drain.

The playing field: Lay the husk flat on a plate, or work surface with the smooth side up and the narrow end facing you. Scoop 2 tablespoons of masa onto the husk.

Fill ;er up: Lay a piece of plastic wrap over the masa and press with your palm. Remove plastic wrap and add 1 to 2 tablespoons filling down the center of the masa. Bring the long sides of the husk together to encase the filling in masa, fold the bottom of the husk up, and roll the husk, but not too tightly.

The whole enchilada: If you are making a tamale that has all the ingredients in the masa and no filling, shape the masa mixture into a log and bring the long sides of the husk together. Fold the bottom of the husk up and roll the husk, but not too tightly.

All steamed up: Stand the tamales up in a large steamer or colander with the open end up. Load the steamer into a large pot filled with 2 inches of water. The water should not touch the tamales. Lay a damp cloth over the tamales and cover with the lid. Bring to a simmer to steam the tamales for about 1 hour, checking periodically to make sure the water level is consistent.

Under pressure: Tamales can be steamed in a pressure cooker, loaded on a trivet with 1 cup of water at 8 psi for 15 to 20 minutes. Reduce the pressure with the natural release method and check for doneness.

Start eating! Tamales are done when the masa pulls cleanly away from the husk. The tamale should be soft, yet firm and not mushy.

— From Katherine Emmenegger

Caroline Dipping writes about food for The San Diego Union-Tribune.

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