Cooking Corner by Various Authors

By Caroline Dipping

During the summer grilling season, you need only follow one simple edict.

Do not play with your food.

This is vital, especially if you are planning on a burger bonanza for your weekend cookouts.

"Generally speaking, I think people actually fiddle with the food too much," said Jamie Purviance, author of five Weber grilling cookbooks, including his most recent, "Weber's Way To Grill." "They try to turn it and rotate it and poke at it and set it on fire.

"I think it's very irresistible. There is something about fire, particularly to men. We have something in our DNA that says, 'I must play with this now, otherwise I'm not really grilling.' "

Burgers, especially, do not need to be mashed, squeezed or flopped back and forth like a reeled-in fish gasping for air. To develop burger flavor, and to prevent them from sticking and tearing on the grill, you have to leave them alone.

"You can only get that delicious seared, caramelized quality on meat if you leave it in place long enough," Purviance said. "Most people put their food on the grill and are picking it up again and getting only half-grilled flavors that way.

"Generally, you turn things once, and at the end of the day, the flavor and texture of the food is better. It just takes fighting that irresistible urge to play with fire."

Still, once you've introduced the meat to the grill, it does not give you license to wander off to see how the onion dip or the beer keg is holding up. A really juicy, succulent burger can go dry in less than a minute if you're not paying attention, Purviance said.

By starting with a fattier meat, at least 20 percent fat for ground beef, and adding in moisture — Purviance likes to use vegetables such as the poblano chiles in his California Burgers — you are ensuring a wider window for perfect doneness. This is especially important for leaner meats, such as turkey, chicken or fish burgers.

"The degree of difficulty goes right up with a turkey burger," Purviance said. "You have to be vigilant, add moisture, and be very careful about temperature so you aren't driving out moisture so quickly.

"Honestly, when I'm making turkey burgers, I usually plan on making an extra as a tester. You have to cut it open a little early to assure it's the right texture and know, 'OK, this one is a minute away.' Then that is your chef's treat, your little prize for cooking dinner that night."

Purviance cooks for his wife and three young children almost every day on at least one of his six grills at his home in Foster City in the San Francisco Bay Area. In writing his latest book on technique, Purviance said his wife clued him in on a big burger faux pas he was making.

"A pet peeve of my wife's is she hates biting into a burger and having her first bite be mostly bun," he said. "It's one mistake a lot of people make, and I was making it, too, for a while.

"When shaping the burger, you need to make the burger wider than the bun so when it shrinks during cooking, it will end up being about the same size as the bun."

Purviance also said a squeaky clean grill is essential before cooking anything. Preheat the grill for at least 15 minutes with the lid closed, then brush the cooking grate with a stiff bristle brush.

He is not an advocate of oiling the cooking grate to prevent food from sticking, as so many recipes recommend.

"I find when you oil the grate, first you waste a fair amount of oil and sometimes it catches on fire," Purviance said. "Also, the oil actually burns when it hits the grate and it can create an aroma I don't want associated with my burger."

Once you've attended to these burger basics, set your sights on imaginative and complementary add-ins, condiments and toppings. Then, all you will have to ask your guests is, "Would you like fries with that?"

PATTY PERFECTION

Fat is flavor. Meat that is about 20 percent fat yields a juicy, succulent, self-basted burger. If you can find ground beef labeled "ground chuck" nab it.

Burger building: Mix seasonings and any moist makers (grated onion or minced veggies, for example) gently but thoroughly into the meat. With slightly damp hands, gently shape patties 3Ú4 inch thick. To avoid the patty puffiness that tends to occur in the middle of a burger when it cooks, press a little indentation with your thumb into the top of each raw patty.

The big chill: Chill your raw patties to firm the meat before cooking.

Control yourself: No matter how tempting, resist the urge to flip your burgers more than once. And under no circumstances press down on the burgers with a spatula to "speed up" the cooking. If you do, essential juices will gush forth and you will end up with a burger as dry as the Sahara.

HOTSY-TOTSY

Just what does it mean when a recipe calls for direct or indirect heat? And how do you gauge when a charcoal fire is ready to start cooking? Grill master Jamie Purviance explains.

Direct heat: The fire is right below the food. It is preferred for quick-cooking foods such as burgers, steaks, boneless chicken and fish.

Indirect heat: The fire is off to one side of the grill or on both sides of the grill. It works best for larger, tougher foods that require longer cooking times such as roasts, whole chickens and ribs.

IS IT READY YET?

Start your charcoal fire about 20 minutes before you want to cook. An easy way to judge a charcoal fire's heat is the palm test. Extend your palm over the coals (after the flames have died down and the coals are grayish) at a safe distance above the charcoal grate, about 5 inches above the cooking grate. If you need to pull away your hand after two to four seconds, the heat is high (450 to 500 degrees). If you need to pull away your hand after five to seven seconds, the heat is medium (350 to 450 degrees). If you need to pull your palm away after eight to 10 seconds, the heat is low (250 to 350 degrees).

SAFETY FIRST

Grilling injuries send 4,000 people to emergency rooms nationwide each year, and fires involving grills caused $80 million in property damage from 2003 to 2006, according to MetLife Auto & Home insurance.

Here are some tips for a safe summer cookout:

— Keep grills on a level surface away from the house, garage, children and pets. If grilling on the patio, keep furniture and accessories away.

— For gas grills, store gas cylinders away from the house and be sure valves are turned off when not in use. Check tubes regularly for cracking, brittleness, holes and leaks in the connections.

— Never use gasoline to start a charcoal grill. Limit amount of starter fluid used. Never add more starter fluid to a lighted grill.

— To put out flames, sprinkle on water.

— To put out a grease fire, use baking soda.

— Keep a fire extinguisher handy. A bucket of sand or a garden hose should be near if there isn't an extinguisher.

— Never allow burned coals to smolder in any container on a wooden deck. Soak coals before disposing of them.

— Dispose of cold ashes by wrapping them in heavy-duty aluminum foil and putting them in a noncombustible container.

CALIFORNIA BURGERS WITH GUACAMOLE MAYONNAISE

Guacamole Mayonnaise:

2 tablespoons grated white onion

1 ripe Haas avocado, pitted and peeled

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

2 plum tomatoes, cored, seeded and chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro

2 teaspoons fresh limejuice

1 small garlic clove, grated

2 poblano chile peppers

Kosher salt

Burgers:

1 1Ú2 pounds ground chuck (80 percent lean)

1 1Ú2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Salt, to taste

Black pepper, to taste

4 hamburger buns

Yields 4 servings.

To make mayonnaise: Using a sieve, rinse grated onion under cold water and let excess water drain off. In a medium bowl, mash avocado and mayonnaise together with a fork. Stir in onion, tomatoes, cilantro, limejuice and garlic. Season generously with salt. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing wrap directly onto surface and set aside. (The mayonnaise can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead.)

To make burgers: Prepare grill for direct cooking over high heat. Brush cooking grates clean. Grill chiles over direct high heat with lid closed as much as possible, until skin is blackened on all sides, about 10 minutes, turning occasionally. Remove from grill and allow to cool completely. Peel off and discard blackened skin, and then remove and discard stem, seeds and ribs. Chop chiles into half-inch dice.

In a large bowl, gently mix ground chuck, chiles, salt and pepper, and shape into 4 patties of equal size and thickness, about 3Ú4-inch thick. With your thumb or back of a spoon, make a shallow indentation about 1 inch wide in the center of each patty so centers are about a half-inch thick. This will help patties cook evenly and prevent them from puffing on grill.

Grill patties over direct high heat, with the lid closed as much as possible, until cooked to medium, 8 to 10 minutes, turning once when patties release easily from grate without sticking. During last minute of cooking time, toast buns, cut sides down, over direct heat. Top burgers with mayonnaise and serve warm.

— "Weber's Way To Grill: The Step-By-Step Guide To Expert Grilling" by Jamie Purviance, Sunset Books.

BRIE AND SHALLOT PARISIAN BURGERS

1 cup thinly sliced shallots

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 1Ú2 pounds ground chuck (80 percent lean)

3 tablespoons fine dry bread crumbs

3 tablespoons beef or chicken broth

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1Ú2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 ounces brie cheese (use double cream, not triple cream variety)

4 round crusty rolls, each about 4 inches in diameter

1/3 cup whole-grain mustard

2 cups baby arugula

Yields 4 servings.

In a medium skillet over low heat, combine shallots with oil and cook until browned but not scorched, about 20 minutes, stirring often. Let cool to room temperature.

Prepare grill for direct cooking over high heat. In a large bowl, gently mix ground chuck, bead crumbs, broth, salt and pepper and shape into 4 patties of equal size and thickness. Make a hole in center of each patty for cheese.

Trim away rind of the brie and bury the cheese, about 1Ú4 ounce for each patty, into hole in each patty. Close opening to seal the cheese inside. It's important that there is one-third of an inch of meat on top and bottom of the cheese so it doesn't seep out.

Brush cooking grates clean. Grill patties over direct high heat, with lid closed as much as possible, until cooked to medium, 8 to 10 minutes, turning once when patties release easily from grate without sticking. During last minute of cooking time, toast buns, cut sides down, over direct heat.

Assemble burgers with shallots, mustard and arugula. Serve warm.

— "Weber's Way To Grill: The Step-By-Step Guide To Expert Grilling" by Jamie Purviance, Sunset Books.

INSIDE-OUT CHEESEBURGERS

1 1Ú2 pounds ground beef sirloin or chuck (15 percent to 20 percent fat)

6 ounces sharp cheddar cheese or pepper Jack cheese, coarsely grated, about 1 1Ú2 cups

Coarse salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper, to taste

4 hamburger buns

2 tablespoons melted butter (optional)

Arugula leaves

Ripe tomato slices

Sweet onion slices

Pickle slices

Chipotle Mayonnaise (see accompanying recipe)

Yields 4 servings.

Place ground beef in a mixing bowl. Add cheese and stir with a wooden spoon to mix. Wet your hands with cold water and divide meat mixture into 4 equal portions. Working quickly and with a light touch, pat each portion into a thick patty. Place on a plate lined with plastic wrap. Refrigerate, covered, until ready to grill.

Generously season each patty on both sides with salt and pepper. Preheat grill to high. Place burgers on hot grill, and cook for about 5 minutes per side, or until cooked through. Remove burgers from grill and cover to keep warm. Leave grill on.

Brush cut sides of hamburger buns with the melted butter, if using. Place buns on hot grill, cut side down, and grill until toasted, 30 seconds to 2 minutes. Watch carefully. You may need to work in batches.

Place each burger on the bottom 1/2 of a bun and top with arugula, tomato, onion, pickle and a dollop of Chipotle mayonnaise. Top with other 1/2 of bun and serve at once.

— Adapted from "BBQ USA" by Steven Raichlen, Workman Publishing.

CHIPOTLE MAYONNAISE

1Ú2 cup mayonnaise

1 to 2 canned chipotle peppers, minced, with 1 tablespoon of their adobo sauce

1Ú2 teaspoon sweet paprika

Yields about 1Ú2 cup.

Place mayonnaise, chipotles and paprika in a small nonreactive bowl and whisk to mix. If not serving at once, cover and refrigerate. Mayonnaise will keep for several days, covered, in the refrigerator.

— Adapted from "BBQ USA" by Steven Raichlen, Workman Publishing.

Caroline Dipping writes about food for The San Diego Union-Tribune. Contact her at caroline.dipping@uniontrib.com.

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