After-Work Gourmet by Lisa Messinger

We've all heard of being on the cusp of an astrological sign. For instance, I've been told all my life that my birthday toward the end of January gives me a bit of Capricorn peppered in with my mainly Aquarius flavoring.

I've recently found myself, though, just as eager about being on the cusp of a spring salad. It's not quite that lovely season yet, but we're teetering at the end of the harsh winter just ahead of it. A wonderful way to mark this is with "transition" salads, which give a nod to spring while still relishing a peppering of hearty winter ingredients, too. Talk about being at the prized peak of seasonality; these are custom-made dazzlers.

The key is an expert blending of flavors and textures.

Celery root (or celeriac) couldn't be more perfect. It stars in both seasons with its availability from September through May. It's the root of a special celery (often referred to as ugly!) that's grown especially for its root. It's got a pronounced celery flavor that's also a bit like a potent parsley.

Showing its winter strengths, celery root is excellent cooked in stews and soup, as well as boiled, braised and baked. However, another strong point is dicing it raw for salads. Combining it with a popular winter ingredient like chopped apples brings out nuances in both items of produce. Then pairing it with spring greens turns the whole thing spectacular.

Similarly, tossing cold-weather fare, such as dried cranberries and pumpkin seeds, atop spring greens and a bounty of spring vegetables also captures this particular seasonal moment.

Root vegetables are a hallmark of winter. Instead of serving them alongside a brisket or as a hot side dish, cook them up and serve in a room temperature salad combined with nuts and spices to evoke the current winter-spring cusp.

Fresh herbs can be all it takes to make a point. Beets are a popular root vegetable. Not only is year-round fresh oregano in the following hearty beet salad, but a sprinkling of spring favorites, like chives, tarragon and dill, also make it sing a snappy spring tune.

BEET SALAD WITH SPRING HERBS AND GOAT CHEESE

8 to 10 medium beets (red, golden or a combination)

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar

Sea salt or kosher salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

4 ounces soft goat cheese, crumbled

2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano

1/4 teaspoon chopped fresh chives

1/4 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon, or equivalent dried

1/4 teaspoon chopped fresh dill, or equivalent dried

1/4 cup chopped lightly toasted pecans

Yields 6 to 8 servings.

If the beets have leaves and stems, trim off the leaves and all but 1/4 inch of the stems. Wash the beets. In a large saucepan or stockpot fit with a steamer basket, steam the beets until a paring knife enters them easily, 30 to 45 minutes, depending on their size.

Set aside until cool enough to handle but still warm.

Peel the beets; the skin will rub right off. Trim and discard the tops and tails and cut the beets into thick wedges. Transfer the beets to a large serving bowl and drizzle with the olive oil and vinegar. Season with a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Sprinkle the goat cheese, oregano, chives, tarragon, dill and pecans over the beets and serve.

SPRING GREENS WITH GREEN APPLE AND CELERY ROOT

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 tablespoons minced shallot

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1/4 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt, or more to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 pound good-quality blue cheese (such as Maytag or Point Reyes Original), crumbled to yield about 1 cup

1 pound spring greens (or escarole or other mixture of greens)

1 medium Granny Smith apple (7 to 8 ounces)

1 small celery root (about 1/2 pound)

1/2 cup pecan halves, toasted

Yields 6 to 8 servings.

In a small bowl, whisk the vinegar, shallot, mustard, salt and a few grinds of pepper. Let the mixture stand for 10 minutes and then whisk in the olive oil. Add 2 tablespoons of the crumbled blue cheese and stir gently.

Store the greens (you should have about 6 loosely packed cups) in a large serving bowl covered with a slightly damp towel in the refrigerator until ready to toss. (If storing for more than an hour, cover the towel-covered bowl with plastic wrap to prevent the towel from drying out.)

Up to 1 hour before serving the salad, peel, core and dice the apple into 1/4-inch cubes (you should have about 1 1/4 cups). Reserve the apple in a medium bowl. Slice the thick skin from the celery root and dice it the same size as the apple (you should have about 1 1/2 cups). Add the celery root to the diced apple and toss with 2 tablespoons of the vinaigrette to prevent discoloration. Cover and refrigerate until ready to toss the salad.

Toss the greens and the apple and celery root mixture with the remaining dressing. Break up the pecans into the salad and toss again to incorporate. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (The blue cheese will add a little saltiness, so take care not to oversalt the salad.) Crumble the remaining blue cheese over the salad just before serving.

Make ahead tips: The vinaigrette tastes best when made ahead, so prepare it up to two days before serving and store it in the refrigerator, tightly covered. Bring the vinaigrette to room temperature and whisk lightly before dressing the salad.

— Recipes adapted from FineCooking.com

Lisa Messinger is a first-place winner in food writing from the Association of Food Journalists and the author of seven food books, including "Mrs. Cubbison's Best Stuffing Cookbook" and "The Sourdough Bread Bowl Cookbook." She also writes the Creators News Service "Cooks' Books" column. To find out more about Lisa Messinger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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