After-Work Gourmet by Lisa Messinger

Fancy Easter meals may be going the way of ornate Easter bonnets — out of style. After all, who has time for days of preparation and hours of cooking? Four minutes sounds more like it.

That's just the break I was inspired to take by Greg Daniels when I found a recipe for four-minute seasonal lamb sliders, perfect for a memorable casual Easter brunch. Although often quick in the kitchen, the chef is no slouch. He's won accolades for having both the best restaurant and best burgers in the large Orange County region of Southern California at Haven, an 18-month-old "gastropub."

Gastropubs started in Europe and have become a popular trend in the United States. They are traditional pubs whose proprietors have brought in gourmet chefs, who choose the best local, seasonal ingredients to create unique casual menus that complement the spirits.

On Haven's menu this spring are Daniels' lamb sliders accented with seasonal herbs. He serves them with a secret leek jam. The savory onion and shallot jam I found from public radio's Lynne Rossetto Kasper of "The Splendid Table" is strongly flavored, yet seems to add just the perfect light touch. Many store-bought brands of onion jam are also available.

Daniels' pear salad makes an easy, yet dynamic accent to the meal. Like him, use a mixture of thin Bosc pear slices, paper-thin sliced pecorino cheese, rum-soaked golden raisins and mesclun. Drizzle it with either homemade or store-bought vinaigrette that you've mixed with a small amount of pear juice, to taste.

LAMB SPRING SLIDERS

1 tablespoon whole allspice berries

1 teaspoon roughly chopped mint

1/2 teaspoon grated ginger

1 teaspoon yellow mustard seeds

1 cardamom pod

1/4 teaspoon chile flakes

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1/4 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1 pound (16-ounces) ground lamb

1 teaspoon (preferably kosher) salt

8 dinner rolls

Store-bought or homemade savory onion jam for serving (optional)

Yields 8 servings.

Combine all spices, except for salt, in a small, dry skillet. Place over medium heat and cook, stirring often, until spices are aromatic and toasted, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder and process until finely ground.

Place lamb in a medium bowl and add the ground spices and salt; mix well. Using a 2-ounce scoop, divide the lamb into 8 equal balls. Flatten balls into 3-inch patties and place each patty into a burger grill basket.

Preheat the grill to medium high heat.

Place grill basket on the grill and cook sliders to desired doneness, about 2 minutes per side for medium. USDA recommends that meat be an internal temperature of at least 160 F. Split the buns in half and place on the edge of grill, cook 1 to 2 minutes until lightly toasted.

Serve the sliders on the toasted buns with condiments of choice. Good with store-bought or homemade savory onion jam (recipe follows).

— Adapted from SurLaTable.com

SAVORY ONION JAM

2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

5 to 6 medium red onions, thinly sliced

10 large shallots, thinly sliced

8 to 10 big cloves garlic (not Elephant type), thinly sliced

Salt, to taste

Generous amount freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Shredded zest of 2 large oranges (optional)

1/4 cup currants or raisins (optional)

1 small fresh tomato, peeled, or a canned tomato

1/4 to 1/2 cup wine vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar (optional)

Yields about 2 cups.

Heat oil in a 12-inch saute pan over medium high. Add onions, shallots, garlic, salt and pepper, tossing to combine. Once they begin sizzling, turn heat to medium low, cover pan and cook 30 minutes, adding zest and raisins halfway through cooking. Once onions become soft and clear, uncover, raising heat to medium high.

Brown the onions. Stir often, scraping up the brown glaze on the bottom of the pan. You may need a little water as they approach being done. Once deep gold, stir in tomato and 1/4 cup vinegar, cooking it down to nothing.

Carefully taste for a soft sweet-tart balance. If necessary, cook in a little sugar or more vinegar. Tomato should meld into the onions, while the vinegar cooks down to an appealing backdrop, not a sharp accent. Cool quickly and pack in jars. Keep refrigerated, but serve close to room temperature. Keeps 1 week in the refrigerator.

Good served with red meat, fish or grilled and roasted foods. Good also with fresh cheeses on crackers. Alternative seasoning options include chiles, herbs, Greek olives, capers or anchovies.

— SplendidTable.PublicRadio.org

Lisa Messinger is a first-place winner in food writing from the Association of Food Journalists and the author of seven food books, including "Mrs. Cubbison's Best Stuffing Cookbook" and "The Sourdough Bread Bowl Cookbook." She also writes the Creators News Service "Cooks' Books" column. To find out more about Lisa Messinger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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