After-Work Gourmet by Lisa Messinger

Since the Pilgrims, dishes featuring the freshest vegetables and fruits have been longtime favorites for the holidays. Many are so beloved — like those crafted from yams, pumpkins, green beans and cranberries — they've barely evolved in centuries. Even these goodies can get "stale," however, and overstay their welcome.

Break the routine and introduce brand-new favorites by thinking outside the vegetable crate.

I did that at one of this season's holiday meals with a green bean recipe that abandons the casserole dish, leaves the beans so crunchy they snap and, to boot, can be prepared in a snap.

In an adapted recipe from my favorite gourmet market, the green beans are just slightly blanched and then cooled. They are then mixed with small amounts of red wine vinegar, freshly ground black pepper, extra-virgin olive oil and sliced almonds. To the bottom of a serving dish, add chunks of unpeeled cucumber, don't stir, but just top with the green bean mixture and drizzle with a small amount of bottled or homemade low-fat balsamic vinaigrette and whole honey almonds. Additionally, for ease at a buffet or a potluck, serve at room temperature or just slightly warmed.

In fact, when I added this to the buffet at the holiday meal, I was thrilled to see some additional imaginative holiday produce dishes that included two of the best I'd ever tasted. I wanted to issue an invitation to both immediately for return visits.

Warmed, on the table and functioning as a triple threat — the dish could be a perfect appetizer, a spread for rolls or a main dish accompaniment — was heated, red wine-filled cranberry sauce bursting with roasted herbed walnuts, which had also been cooked with the red wine. The dish was inspired by Bon Appetit magazine. It so outshone every cranberry sauce I'd ever tasted.

A rendition of Food Network's Giada De Laurentiis' butternut squash lasagna was a brilliant choice that could function as a main dish for vegetarians or others so inclined. Served in thin squares, it was the most delicious squash side dish I'd ever had, including any yam or sweet potato tempter that shared my holiday tables. It's not a simple recipe, but not too difficult either and well worth it.

Amaretti cookies, butter, milk, nutmeg and basil give the distinct richness and flavor. Moderate amounts of whole-milk mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses are just the right blend. No-boil lasagna noodles add to the ease, and — thanks to the effect of the delightful butternut squash — are soft and buttery, adding to its overall stupendous nature.

This creamy lasagna was just as good reheated the next day. With the long buffet of leftovers beckoning to me, that was the one I was most looking forward to as my repeat dining companion — not only that day, but for many holidays to come.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH LASAGNA

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 (1 1 / 2 to 2-pound) butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch cubes

Salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 / 2 cup water

3 amaretti cookies, crumbled

1 / 4 cup butter

1 / 4 cup all-purpose flour

3 1 / 2 cups whole milk

Pinch nutmeg

3 / 4 cup (lightly packed) fresh basil leaves

12 no-boil lasagna noodles

2 1 / 2 cups shredded whole-milk mozzarella cheese

1 / 3 cup grated Parmesan

Yields 8 to 10 servings.

Heat the oil in a heavy, large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the squash and toss to coat. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Pour the water into the skillet and then cover and simmer over medium heat until the squash is tender.

Stir occasionally, for about 20 minutes. Cool slightly and then transfer the squash to a food processor. Add the amaretti cookies and blend until smooth. Season the squash puree, to taste, with more salt and pepper.

Melt the butter in a heavy medium-size saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk for 1 minute. Gradually whisk in the milk. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the sauce thickens slightly, whisking often, about 5 minutes. Whisk in the nutmeg. Cool slightly. Transfer half of the sauce to a blender. (See note.) Add the basil and blend until smooth. Return the basil sauce to the sauce in the pan and stir to blend. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375 F.

Lightly butter a 13-by-9-by-2-inch glass-baking dish. Spread 3 / 4 cup of the sauce over the prepared baking dish. Arrange 3 lasagna noodles on the bottom of the pan. Spread 1 / 3 of the squash puree over the noodles. Sprinkle with 1 / 2 cup of mozzarella cheese. Drizzle 1 / 2 cup of sauce over the noodles. Repeat layering 3 more times.

Tightly cover the baking dish with foil and bake the lasagna for 40 minutes. Sprinkle the remaining mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses over the lasagna. Continue baking uncovered until the sauce bubbles and the top is golden, 15 minutes longer. Let the lasagna stand for 15 minutes before serving.

Note: When blending hot liquids: Remove liquid from the heat and allow to cool for at least 5 minutes. Transfer liquid to a blender or food processor and fill it no more than halfway. If using a blender, release one corner of the lid. This prevents the vacuum effect that creates heat explosions. Place a towel over the top of the machine, pulse a few times then process on high speed until smooth.

-FoodNetwork.com

WARMED CRANBERRY SAUCE WITH HERBED WALNUTS

Cranberries:

1 pound fresh cranberries or frozen, thawed

1 1 / 4 cups sugar

3 tablespoons walnut oil

1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme

1 teaspoon minced fresh sage

1 / 2 teaspoon (preferably fine sea) salt

1 / 4 cup dry red wine mixed with 2 tablespoons water

Walnuts:

3 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons dry red wine

3 / 4 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme

1 teaspoon minced fresh sage

Yields about 3 cups.

To prepare cranberries: Preheat oven to 425 F. Mix all of cranberry ingredients, except wine, on heavy rimmed baking sheet. Roast until edges begin to bubble, about 15 minutes. Remove from oven; maintain oven temperature if preparing walnuts immediately.

Bring wine mixture to boil in small saucepan. Stir into cranberry mixture. Roast until juices bubble and cranberries shrivel, stirring occasionally, 10 to 15 minutes longer. Transfer to medium bowl. For the flavors to blend, cover and chill until cold, about 2 hours.

To prepare walnuts: Preheat oven to 425 F. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment. Stir 3 tablespoons sugar and 3 tablespoons wine in small saucepan over medium heat until syrupy, about 3 minutes. Stir in walnuts and herbs. Transfer mixture to sheet, spreading out and separating nuts. Roast until nuts are brown, stirring occasionally, 8 to 10 minutes. Cool. Break up any clumps of nuts.

To serve: Warm cranberry mixture until hot, carefully stirring in walnuts after about 3 minutes, for the remainder of the heating process.

-BonAppetit.com

CNS photo courtesy of Food Network

Lisa Messinger is a first-place winner in food writing from the Association of Food Journalists and the author of seven food books, including "Mrs. Cubbison's Best Stuffing Cookbook" and "The Sourdough Bread Bowl Cookbook." She also writes the Creators News Service "Cooks' Books" column. To find out more about Lisa Messinger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.

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